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Wet Cylender extension |
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Jan 2012 at 10:44pm |
Does anyone know how far an aluminum Tisco cylinder sleeve should extend from an allis WD block (I.E. the lip). It says in the manual 2 to 4 thousandths, but would these have different tolerances? Any input is greatly appreciated!
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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First of all they would not be aluminum sleeves, they would be cast iron. The pistons would be aluminum. If they were properly made(which I assume they are) they would stand out .002-.004. MACK
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22824 |
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If your counterbores are right and the deck is flat, the sleeves need to be between .002 and .004 of an inch above the deck. That is the complete tolerance. If the sleeves are right and they don't protrude that amount, you have a problem with your deck.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
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Yeah...mine are set about 12 thousandths above the block. is there any way to pound, shave, or make a head gasket seal properly on the cylenders without taking it in to a machine shop? thanks to all who have posted and I appreciate all responses! Edited by oldchalmersiron - 03 Jan 2012 at 3:36pm |
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22824 |
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I don't know what the C'bore is supposed to be but .012 doesn't sound good. I would find out first what is wrong. Do the sleeves having too big of a flange? If so, talk to your supplier. If your C'bore is shallow, machine it down. If all the sleeves fit the same and you want a cheap fix, take .008 to .009 off the top of the sleeves or the back of the flange.
Make sure there isn't a radius in the inner corner of the flange that is keeping the sleeve from seating flat on the flange.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
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Thanks!
but i have a couple more questions: Should I bring it in to a machine shop or what should I do to get that 8 to 9 thousandths off the block? could maybe previous owners decked or shaved the top of the block to many times and allowed the cylinder to stick up that much extra?
Edited by oldchalmersiron - 03 Jan 2012 at 6:47pm |
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B26240 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3865 |
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Pounding is NOT a good idea-- as CTucker said make sure everything is clean!! It's possible your block was "decked" at some point and then they cut the liners down to get 2-4 thousands protrusion?
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
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Funny. You just answeered some of my questions I was typing up and editing in! The machine shop I took the block to shaved a little metal off the top and had it magnafluxed and all cracks fixed. More than likely that is what happened. This is going to be an adventure because i have it all together except the head. Thanks for your posts though!!!!!!!!!!
Edited by oldchalmersiron - 03 Jan 2012 at 7:45pm |
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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It is called the school of hard knocks. All of that should be checked before assembly. Counter bore depth of the block should be checked in several places around each hole. The sleeve should be set down in the hole and able to turn 360 degrees without O rings and the height of the sleeve checked above the block.
Just some of the mere details needed to be looked at when rebuilding any engine with wet sleeves. No one gets all the details in their mind on the first rebuild. Might miss some after dozens of rebuilds. There are problems though if you make the same mistake a dozen times in a row. (:^D
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
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Even harder when youre 15! and this truly this is youre first rebuild! At least I know that I am not the only person who does this... thanks for the support!
Edited by oldchalmersiron - 03 Jan 2012 at 7:42pm |
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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Don't be afraid to ask questions at every step. You will get support here from many knowledgeable engine mechanics as well as a few old duffers like me that have made more mistakes than you would care to hear about.
What ever you do don't give up.
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oldchalmersiron ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 23 Oct 2011 Location: minnesota Points: 27 |
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Sure will ask questions, but I sure will not give up! thanks!
Edited by oldchalmersiron - 03 Jan 2012 at 8:36pm |
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Tracy Martin TN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10736 |
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There is a tool made for cutting the counterbore depth. Safest way is to disassemble engine and plug your oil gallery holes. Make sure all shaving are out before reassembly. good shop should have had the sleeves to do this from the start. HTH Tracy Martin
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Rawleigh ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: White Stone, VA Points: 421 |
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I don't have anything to add except persevere and ask lots of questions (preferably BEFORE the work is commenced). Don't be afraid to ask and don't be put off if you get a few gruff replies. We can be a little cantankerous around here some times!!
Edited by Rawleigh - 04 Jan 2012 at 9:02am |
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