wc still won't start

Try .020 gap on your pluds.

GH, I had this situation once on a WC and once on a B.  Each time it turned out to be the plugs.  I use new plugs in engines I have rebuilt, and I blast plugs in engines that need rebuild.  I know lots of guys say blasting will ruin the engine, but I use the fine grit that is recommended for this task (I think it is aluminum Oxide) and blow out the plugs well afterword.  "Playground Sand" is definately bad for Plugs.   I had a ford that acted the same, turned out to be the condenser.  
The only other thing I can suggest is to try a couple of different timing settings on the mag.  When you have the fire mark at TDC, check the mag to see that the rotor is at the timing lug in the mag.  One tooth off in the internal gears could do this also.


Edited by Dave Richards (WV) - 05 Oct 2011 at 8:35am

Assuming you have non resistor plugs and wires!

As far as checking timing the fire line is to check with a timing light. If you are just inching the engine over a tiny bit at a time when number one plug fires on the compression stroke you want to see the TDC or CENTER line in the inspection hole at that instant not the fire line. If when checking this way you see the fire line you are 30 degrees off advanced. The instructions for installing the magneto on the tractor using the fire line is to let the magneto engage the slots which no can do at TDC.   When installing the magneto at the fire line on the flywheel the flywheel still has to turn the 30 degrees to trip the impulse to fire the plug. After the engine starts the fire line will then be in the inspection hole because of the mechanical advance.

Edited by Dick L - 05 Oct 2011 at 12:15pm

I think your making to complicated. Myself, I check the magnetos in a vice. I install the points cap using the marked small beveled tooth up and the proper letter on the fiber gear, C normally over the marked gear. I make sure all plug wires are firing. I then snap it over until the fourth plug wire sparks,(which would go to number three cylinder) and number one is ready to spark/fire.  I then put a piece of tape on the impulse so it can't turn backwards to re fire the number four terminal. The rotor will be where it needs to be if it is firing the plugs as it snaps over. I turn the engine over until I first feel pressure on number one plug hole. I don't worry about any fire line as it would not quite be to the inspection hole yet by a tad. I then install the magneto.

Not familiar with FMK does it have the proper lag timing on the impulse coupler for a Allis?

You might try this, when you have it running try moving the mag a little one way then the other, to where the engine sounds the best.

Ctucker, being a Deere guy, he probably set it up to run on 2 cylinders, but which 2. Bob

Hopefully I will have time this weekend to work on it. I have a few ideas to try. Thanks, Jesse

answer... I checked that also. That was my first thought. The key was broken in the impulse mechanism. Once I fixed that, I thought I was home free. It did solve one problem, but not the hard starting.

Dave Richards (WV) wrote: Question for DickL..  Is there any chance the mechanical advance on this mag is stuck in the advanced position?  Might explain why it starts when pulled.

Sure, anytime you have something mechanical there is a chance it would stick or not function properly. Pulling the tractor will do at least two things that cranking will not do. #1 would be the armature is spinning faster and would over come a slightly weak field. #2 would be that the engine would be turning over at a faster speed causing more vacuum to draw fuel into the firing chamber. One thing of many that (can) cause a tractor to start hard when hand cranking is when the space between the main jet and the discharge tube has crud in it. That space is where the engine gets it first gas to pull into the firing chamber that does not have to be sucked thru the tiny main jet. When a tractor sets it is also where the gas can turn into gummy shellac making that space smaller. It is also a space you can not clean with the off the shelf spray cans of carburetor cleaner. It can be scraped out with small dental pics or small drill bits used by spinning them with your fingers. Best not to use a power drill.

Didn't mean to point to low compression although it would be something to check if you have not. What I was pointing out about the more vacuum with the engine spinning faster was that it could draw fuel to start all the way back thru the main jet.  If you put a coffee stirring straw in your mouth and pinch your nose shut and try to breath thru the stirring straw you would find it hard to get enough air to breath. If that area between the main jet is not completely clear it will not hold enough gas for the slight amount of vacuum from cranking a 1/4 turn to start the tractor. The jet is small enough that you do not get free flow in any amount thru it. It has to have ample vacuum to draw any amount of gas thru the jet.  I am not saying that it is your problem. I am only saying it is one of many things that can cause hard starting when hand cranking that can or could  be overcome by pulling the tractor. Just something to ponder.  What works for me may not work for others but, I try to assemble all the things that could cause the problem  that I am having in my mind first and then go at checking one possibility at a time and make sure it is not the problem before checking another possibility. Sometimes I find the problem in something that I have checked more than once and somehow missed. I am very sure of myself that I can find and fix any tractor problem I am having.  I am not so sure of myself to think that I would not have missed something the first or more times I already checked if I have not found the problem.