D-14 Wiring help

Hi all.  I recently aquired a D-14 with some problems.  It was converted to 12v neg ground at some time in the past by, i assume, the pack of flying monkeys from the Wizard of Oz.  i've managed to clean up most of the wiring as the original 6v wires were all still in there as well as some wires that were made up of short wires wire nutted together to make longer ones and wires that ran from the front to the rear and were not connected to anything.  i have it narrowed down to what i think is the basic amount of wiring needed.  At first the tractor started just fine, then it would only start when i let go of the key after spinning the motor up.  i changed out the key switch and it started just fine about a dozen times then started doing the same thing again.  Now it won't start at all.  I had the starter rebuilt and it's 12v with a 12v solenoid, the coil is the original with a big ol' resister between that and the switch, the alternator is a single wire.  After looking thru the older posts i have a couple of questions:

Both ignition switches for the D-14 are still available.
Lawnmower key type and jellybean key type.

As far as you can tell, the starter is still original? The reason I say this is a 6v starter will crank an engine quite well with a 12v battery that has a dead cell in it. Measure the voltage available to the coil while cranking. If that voltage is dropping below 9.5 volts, you won't have enough output from a 12v ignition system to fire a plug under compression. Pretty good chance you have a bad battery.

the battery is new but i'll check it.  the starter i took to a rebuilder and had it completly rewound and restored.  compared to how weak it was before, it really spins the engine up.  i feel like i should put my foot out to keep it from flipping over on it's side.  i'll check the power to the coil to see if i'm getting more than 9.5 volts.

i made a sketch of the current wiring setup and i'll scan it at work tommorow morning.  i already see that the 6v coil is hooked up pos to the distributor and the ammeter has seen better days.  also i have 2 wires coming from the the alternator, one #8 to the ammeter and one to the acc part of the ignition switch.  i still need to get a meter and check voltages tommorow when i get home from work.

The only choice you would have with that switch is ignition.
Make sure all acc are turned off when starting engine.

ok, i have a sketch of the existing wiring.  other than the coil being backwards is there anything else hooked up wrong?  (i'll be replacing the coil and resistor)

the wiring is too far gone to go back that far with it.  also the generator and regulator are gone.  i'd love to restore it back to what it should be but i'm actually going to work this tractor and i'd be too worried about scratching it to use it if it was all fancy.  going to napa today to get a new switch and 3 ohm internal resistor coil.  maybe i can get that in tonight and try it, been too busy at work to get at it.

If you are using 6 v coil ?, a bypass push  button can be added to go around rest. & give coil 12v while starting.

brought it back to life last night.  put in a new coil (3ohm, 12v) and ignition switch.  took out the resister, old 6v coil and fried switch.  now with all the new parts it starts when i just barely bump the starter, shocked the heck out of me when it fired up that fast.  the old switch was a 4 post and i put in an old style 3 post switch.  i put the lights from the old acc terminal to the bat terminal on the new switch and ran the white wire from the alternator from the acc terminal to the ign terminal.  what does the white wire from the alternator do and will it work on the ign terminal of the new switch.  (the red wire from the alternator goes to the ammeter)  thanks for all the help and i hope the new switch lasts longer this time.  also, what happens if the ammeter quits working, will it stop passing power through?

thanks.