New to me Allis B

I just got my first Allis. I was told it is a 55 B. Good metal but needs paint. Was told it ran last fall. Pulled tank and drained, flushed. Cleaned carb and bowl and replaced plugs. Charged battery and can get to crank over. It will fire with starting fluid but wont stay running. What position does the throttle need to be in for starting? Also, does anyone have a electronic manual for this? I have found a few wires no longer in use trying to find out what can be removed or rewired. Also, What are the knobs on the ammeter box for? Thanks for any help. I look forward to learning from y'all.

First the serial number of the tractor is stamped next to the gear shift. You can find a serial number reference page on this site.
With all the cleaning you did, is the fuel line from the sediment bowl to the carb clean? Take the drain plug out of the carb bowl and turn the gas on and see if you have a good flow to the carb. I would set the throttle about half way for starting.
For a wiring diagram try Duey's page here. http://dueyschutter.freeservers.com/index.html So manu of these old tractors have been altered in the last 50 years, you would have to describe what kind of system you have for any better help. It could be 6volt pos ground as original or 12 volt neg ground with an alternator or anything in between.
If there are 2 knobs, one was originally the mag kill switch or power switch for the coil depending on your system. The other one should be the light and charge switch. In all the way is low charge, out one notch is lights with full charge and out all the way is full charge, no lights.

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 19 Jun 2011 at 9:16pm

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

i wasn't pleased with the carb cleaning as i would like to regasket and rebuild. Any place i can get the parts local? The choke butterfly looks a little degraded. Also want to replace the plug wires are there any automotive crossovers?

you can order them.. from a link on this site. i dont know wich one atm

good luck

wd with a freeman model 90 trip loader, wd45, 38 unstylled wc, b 10 garden tractor and 2-14 ac trip plow. grandpa has a 56 wd45. wd. allis chalmers snap coupler blade and 3 bottom snap coupler plow

dad2many wrote:

i wasn't pleased with the carb cleaning as i would like to regasket and rebuild. Any place i can get the parts local? The choke butterfly looks a little degraded. Also want to replace the plug wires are there any automotive crossovers?

If it is a 55 it will more than likely have a coil and distributor, if it happens to have a Magneto, don't use resistor plugs or wires.

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

Serial # is B118756 so I guess that makes it a 52

acwdwcman wrote:

you might have the sediment boul to tight.. the bowl up but not to were it leaks

The only thing that happens if the bowl is too tight is you warp the casting so it won't seal. If the sediment bowl won't fill after cleaning and reassembly, it is most likely your carb bowl is full of gas making the float seat the needle. Drain the bowl or start the tractor and it will fill on it's own.
acwdwcman, your PM box is full.

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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

The magneto switch on my C is opposite, in is on and out is off. Just something to think about... but I have neg. ground, don't know if that matters.

"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17

OK, just let me clarify that if you have a magneto, DO NOT HOOK POWER FROM THE BATTERY TO IT AT ALL!

Only thing that should go to the mag is the kill switch wire, which should be going to ground on the tractor frame somewhere. No power is needed at all for a magneto. It makes it's own spark from the rotating magnetic field and is amplified by the internal coil in the mag.

Sounds like you may have a fuel problem, unless you are using resistor plugs and graphite wires. Use AC Delco plugs(just my preference.) and metal core wires. NAPA will have both. Can't remember the point gap setting right off, but .020 sounds right. Good luck.

I didn't do it! It was a short, fat, tall, skinny guy that looked like me!

Ok, here's an update. I picked up a carb rebuild kit and rebuilt the carb today. Throughly cleaned all parts and all ports as the little brass jets would not come out. Replaced the float brass and the needle screw. Got it up and running on the first shot of starting fluid. Idles fast and spits and sputters. Putted around the yard a little but can't seem to get the idle right. It wants to sputter and back fire a little when putting it under load (easing the clutch out). Is there any advance or retarding of the timing that can be done on a magneto? I have not yet replaced the plug wires as I haven't found any yet. Maybe thats the next step.

Any other suggestions? Thanks for all of your help so far.

By the way, I am in central NC (Randolph county)

Plug wires fixed it :) when i pulled the old ones, 2 of them you couldnt see any wire coming out of the insulation to the connectors. Seems to be running great. Now to find attachments or convert to 3 point. Oh, and paint work to come this winter.

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