Hay Wagon Framing ????s

Option # 1 would be by far the better way to go.Many of the original boxes had a metal band on the outside with stake pockets welded in.

Option 1 is the best , more strength, and higher clearence for wheels as well as place to mount sideboards. I have 7 wagons built this way on Kory gears.

OK, if I go option 1, is 4x6 heavy enough for the runners, and how do I attach the 4x4s?  Lag bolts, carriage bolts through both beams?  What kind of spacing on the 4x4s?

For a hay wagon for just riders, I would go with option two with a twist.   I would go with a tongue and groove board for extra strength locking them together, and then do Eldon's (and others) idea of running a angle iron around the perimeter with stake pockets welded to it.   The angle iron with the pockets not only makes for good side rail and backboard mounting, but also it protects the ends of the boards from getting all banged up.   My dad's last hay wagon was built just like option two and we used to handstack that sucker to the clouds and we never broke anything on it, other then the backrail support mounts which were underbuilt the first time anyways, but the bed held up to this very day.   I still want to bring it home but at least by my dad's it is in a barn staying dry. 

the 4x6 should be plenty heavy as we have built several hay racks over the years that way and the angle iron is really nice to work with  but we used carriage bolts instead of lag bolts but either will work great

option 1 is your best bet, can always add one more step up, and attach the brackets to the 4x4's, also run that 2x4 all the way around the edge too...build it heavy and then can forget about it not being heavey nuff for anything you might want to use it for! the 2x4's will help to keep things from rolling off like pipe hauling, and will help hold hay bales from sliding off on a side hill, we use carriage bolts thru the 4x4's and 4x6's. and if wanting to save a little money, 1x12's work great for the top boards rather than 2x12's, depending on how many 4x4 cross pieces you put in! we use 5 4x4's on an 20 ft bed. 

I would go with something heavier than a 4 by 6 for the stringers. A 4x6 will flex quite a bit and if it is treated it probably has the heart in it, and quite a few defects.  I'd  laminate (3) 2 by 10's or (2) 2 by 12's, either is much stronger than a 4 by 6,  (2)  2x10 should also be stronger you actually may need the increased height for wheel clearance depending on your gear

Edited by ac45 - 26 Apr 2011 at 8:34am

Blll- nice AC gears-----what is length and width of bed?  

Here is a pic of mine that I threw together 3 years ago cause I needed a wagon. I used 4x6 on the ends with rough sawn 2x4 in the middle. Screwed down new 2x6 lumber for the deck.  It is holding up well, just not the best looking rack.  No that is not me in the pic, it is my buddy Fred trying to relive his hippy days LOL!

Eldon (WA) wrote: Here is a pic of mine that I threw together 3 years ago cause I needed a wagon. I used 4x6 on the ends with rough sawn 2x4 in the middle. Screwed down new 2x6 lumber for the deck.  It is holding up well, just not the best looking rack.  No that is not me in the pic, it is my buddy Fred trying to relive his hippy days LOL!

Eldon what is on the front of that wagon?????