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D17 with 8420 Round Baler

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AjsAllis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 8:08pm
Good Afternoon Allis Community,

I Have a series 4 D17 and am pulling a 8420 Case IH baker. This baler is rated for 30-60 Hp. When I have a full bale ( 3x4 ) the tractor sounds like it's struggling. Really bogged down. Infact sometimes it has a hard time turning the bale. So what is the matter here. This shouldn't be an issue right? This is the only 3 time I've used the baler since I got it but it's done it every time. Pondering what to do. Anything is helpful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nathan (SD) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 8:10pm
Tie the bale before it starts struggling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jiminnd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 8:15pm
I had an 8480 baler on 706 IH, when full it pulled hard.  Maybe just have quit sooner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KJCHRIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 8:33pm
My guess is bale chamber is FULL..
 Does baler have a Bale Size Indicator.? 
 Yes. Make a mark for a bit smaller bale and tie bale & discharge at new mark. 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 9:34pm
I'm glad to hear it's normal...ish , I'd previously had a 80hp deere with a 604L vermeer and never felt bogged down in that setup so was surprised the D17 is
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jun 2026 at 11:01pm
There still COULD be a tractor issue. When's the last time it was given a good tune-up with a new air filter ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 55allis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 12:09am
Is it gas or diesel?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 2:29am
The 8420 is just a rebadged Hesston 530/5530. Good balers for what they were meant for, but designed to get by on low, low HP. Possibly the lightest pulling round baler made. As the OP will know, they made a small (39" x 4') bale. And although they were a hard core baler, the bales are still not packed as tight as other hard-cored balers. And they were built light, to have less weight for the tractor to lug around.

So not really comparable to the 8480 on the IH mentioned above (or any other round baler for that matter). A D17 really shouldn't have any trouble pulling an 8420. In fact, it should barely feel it. Worth checking out the tractor as Doc mentions above, but I'd be looking at the baler too. All rolls turning good with no evidence of a bad bearing? A bad roll bearing can really gobble the HP (and will soon start a fire). Has it ran enough this year to have the sides of the chamber polished up? How fast in how thick of a windrow? They really weren't a fast nor high-capacity baler. And don't try making a bale larger than their max diameter - those balers were built light with no slip-clutch nor shears pin. You can overload and break something without a lot of trouble on one of those.

Edited by DanielW - 01 Jul 2026 at 2:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 4:29am
I used to pull a 5530 with a D-12. check bearings with an IR thermometer is always a good idea. As I recall, the baler has an over full indicator, a bar that is pushed against a sprocket and rattles loudly if the bale is as full as maxxing out.  sometimes hay will jam against the mech, check this too...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 5:24am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

There still COULD be a tractor issue. When's the last time it was given a good tune-up with a new air filter ??

I remember (many years ago), Dad had a reason to use his WD45 when it was dark. There were many sparks coming from the plug wires. When he put new wires on, there was a noticeable increase in power.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 8:48am
Assuming your tachometer works, as the bale grows larger thru the process, you might need to open the throttle up some more to maintain 1650 RPM engine speed or more.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Allis dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 10:14am
You say Infact sometimes it has a hard time turning the bale.
Do you mean that sitting stopped the tractor is working hard just to trun the bale? Or do you mena that the bale is barely turning like somehting is slipping?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lars(wi) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 10:51am
Admittedly, I am unfamiliar with round balers, and actually operating a D17. Thru my years I have noticed there is a tendency of some operators, especially when it comes to operating hay equipment, there is a fear of ‘opening up the throttle’. Years ago I worked with a colleague that insisted of using a IH 826, or an 856 for small square baling, instead of the Farmall 656, or possibly a Farmall 400. He claimed used a big powerhouse    , then keeping the rpm’s low would make better baled hay.
I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 11:38am
We had an AC 444 square baler with a 44 bale thrower. If you ran it at PTO speed (540 rpm), it would seldom miss a bale. If you ran it much faster or slower, it would miss much more often.
My theory is that most PTO equipment is designed to run a specific speed (540/1000) and it tends to run best at that speed. 


Edited by WF owner - 01 Jul 2026 at 11:39am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 12:01pm
My neighbor ran one of those balers with a Ford 3000 your D17 should run it with no problem
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 1:49pm
To be more clear , if it's about 70% of a bale I'll hear the engine start to work harder and can definitely tell the bale is not rolling as fast as it should be. On a few of them I had to go to neutral with the power director.Allow the bale to regain momentum And feed twine. Even if I wasn't full size bale.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 1:51pm
I wanted to hear that someone was using something smaller than my D17 with one of these baler. I think you're right checking the bearings with the temp gun is a simple thing to check.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 1:54pm
DR

It's a Gas and has only had maybe 30 hours since full carb rebuild and new filter. I only bale for about 10 hours per year. So it's been 3 years. And no the tach doesn't work. Haven't needed it until now. I've been running full RPM and in some cases low 1 just get the job done and believe me it's not heavy hay.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thendrix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 1:59pm
Originally posted by WF owner WF owner wrote:

We had an AC 444 square baler with a 44 bale thrower. If you ran it at PTO speed (540 rpm), it would seldom miss a bale. If you ran it much faster or slower, it would miss much more often.
My theory is that most PTO equipment is designed to run a specific speed (540/1000) and it tends to run best at that speed. 



NH square balers do the same thing. I ran a 273 and if it wasn't at 540 it didn't want to tie. Would run the pickup and the plunger but no tying. I guess it's the timing aspect.

I agree with what's been said before. Having to stop to let the bale catch up without the chamber full means something is in a bind. I'd say look for a bearing that's dry or not turning or maybe a bent roller

Edited by thendrix - 01 Jul 2026 at 2:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 2:06pm
From your description, something is definitely not how it should be. Are you sure it's a power issue, and not a slipping clutch/power-director? Does the engine really bog down hard, or is it rather that the baler/PTO is slowing down?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jul 2026 at 2:32pm
Originally posted by DanielW DanielW wrote:

From your description, something is definitely not how it should be. Are you sure it's a power issue, and not a slipping clutch/power-director? Does the engine really bog down hard, or is it rather that the baler/PTO is slowing down?


The first time it happened caught me off guard and nearly killed the tractor and bale did stop rolling. I got out of gear and was able to get bale rolling again. The next several times I could see it slowing its roll and engine bogging almost simultaneously.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2026 at 2:28pm
if the hay is wet to the point it makes gummy green stuff stick to the sides -- that is harder to roll in the chamber than dryer hay. Also make sure your chains are all driving the rollers. My neighbor had  a Gehl 1470 that he had been working on. 
As he started using it it was pulling hard and shearing pins. I watched it run for a bit and it got in real bind.  He had installed a double sprocket backwards making the belts and the floor drum running different speeds when they need to be running about the same speed so the hay will roll easily in the chamber. We flipped the sprocket over and got them all going the same speed, ran like new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jason n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2026 at 9:57pm
Run an 8420 with a 175. It runs it effortlessly. If you don't close the bale chamber all the way it will have trouble turning the bale. There is an indicator rod on top of the baler that should drop all the way down to show chamber is properly closed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jul 2026 at 10:09pm
Like the tailgate must be more than gravity closed ?? It has to be hydraulically forced shut as much as the hydraulics can close it ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2026 at 4:01am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Like the tailgate must be more than gravity closed ?? It has to be hydraulically forced shut as much as the hydraulics can close it ??

Yes, the baler needs 2-way hydraulics. and you have to look to see that the flag bar has gone down, But after a while of using it, you get into a rhythm ...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2026 at 5:35am
Another tip for that series of baler: Like the G-series Vermeers, they were strictly spring tensioning on the bale. But unlike the Vermeers, they needed the belts quite tight when the gate was closed to start turning under tension right off the hop or it would have problems starting the core. So you didn't want to store them under tension, or they'd get slightly stretched and not be under full tension when empty. Hesston (and Massey/Case when they rebadged them) issued pins for long-term storage - you put in holes in each side with the gate open, then closed the gate. The pins kept kept the tension off the belts for long-term storage (can't remember if they did this by just keeping the gate slightly open, or preventing the tensioning mechanism from extending completely).

If you suspect it to be the baler turning hard, try turning the PTO with a pipe wrench while the belts are under tension. Shouldn't take too much effort to turn it. If it does, try taking the tension off the belts by the above method then try rolling it by hand again. At least that will help you narrow down whether it's in the rolls or the driveline.


Edited by DanielW - 03 Jul 2026 at 11:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8070nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2026 at 6:34am
This is neither here nor there as far as this thread goes except for a D17 s4
Ive got one. Its one of the guttiest tractors ive ever been on. It just doesnt give up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2026 at 1:22pm
Jason above makes a good point re: tailgate closing: If the tailgate doesn't close and latch fully and positively (or if it doesn't stay latched), it can pop open a little when running. If it pops open a lot it will just stop picking up and make a mess, and you'll know something's wrong. But if it only unlatches a little and the hydraulics are (kind of) holding it mostly closed, it might still make some half-hearted, ugly attempts to keep the bale rolling, but suck a lot of power doing so as the bale won't be properly captured and supported on the belts/rollers.

Make uber sure the latch mechanism is working properly. And maybe have someone walk beside you as you make a roll to make sure it's not coming unlatched (check both sides).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2026 at 2:51pm
Thanks guys for taking this discussion on. I always saw the gate indicator tucked away in the right postion when baling but who knows , Maybe something was going on there , I will try turning the baler with a pipe wrench and report back. I did check the air filter like Dr said and it's clean as a whistle. I do have a local friend I picked his brain and all he said is were at 6500ft and have to account for the loss in HP for that and he claims baler HP ratings are for operating the baler not including the bale weight so he always has minimum 40hp more tractor to compensate.

Edit- also I will admit it was morning with some dew so the post about friction on bale chamber sure is possible, the field I was baling gave my deere 535 baler a run for its money when it was dry and that's what was happening the day before with the 8420 so I stopped and waited till morning. Short and slick aren't around baler friendly

Edited by AjsAllis - 03 Jul 2026 at 2:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AjsAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jul 2026 at 9:45am
Some more diagnostics , the baler belts do not turn with a pipe wrench on the drive line. So they are slipping on main roller. Also rear gate does have hay stuck but it seems that it is latched, although not by much, so I will give these some more attention and see what is what. Happy 4th yall.
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