HD19, sitting to long...

Hi fellas, Got an old HD19 that was loaned out for clearing an area for a house, some 25 years ago or more, then the fellow used it to digs some ponds and ran it off the sprocket.

  Worse part nobody tried to get the track back on right away, specially the barrower. Now the said barrower is selling his house and property and leaving for an Island in the pacific. Great, Not.  25+ years has not done it good where it sat. 

 Lender was busy trying to get it started and not getting it going So I went over and assisted them on my crawler to get it smoking again, three fuel injectors stuck, had to remove rockers over those and did get the injectors loosened up. started winging it over and smoke rolling put cover back on and then gave her another spin... and smoke rolling again and told nephew to give it some ether and it woke right up and smoked the everything up... everything was going pretty good, engine started getting back to what it use to sound like despite the smoke coming out from exhaust seals. Yea, then we had fire on the ground, dry leaves and old dead grass lit up, hollered 'FIRE" and nephew stomped the fire out.  Now leary of opening the throttle up to get torque converter to lock up, I shifted it into gear and applied the clutch, drive shaft just stops barely loading the engine. Tried the brakes, dang, they are stuck, more than likely so are the brake bands too. With it sitting nose down some and track clean off the sprocket, and the blade being cable, can't lift front endup to block it, and can't seem to declutch the right track to spin the left sprocket... and not daring to start another fire... there it sits.

  Oh yea, besides track worn out, theres no bearings left in front idler. I remember when I bought the old girl that idler needed help but now it is far worse, need to do something like maybe drive white oak blocking into hub temporarily or get idler out and get some better/new bearing in there and shaft too. 

Old  Allis Chalmers HD19 parts book says,  

front idler bearings cone Part number 051630,

 cup 051630,

 shaft 051621  

gasket 034043

boot 051629

follower assembly 051959

ring seal seal kit 076354       

gasket seal ring 051622

guard assembly 051620

Anyone have cross reference numbers to those bearing parts and shaft?

Couple pics of the old HD19

One comment was that nothing speeded up your handling of track problems like having to repair in no-man's-land

For those not familiar with them -

"Bren gun carrier; fast, furious and lots of help "

Okay, got the old fittings retro-fitted with longer nipples to put new hoses on.

Dug out the old hose and swedged out the crimping collars, then bought some nipples that didn't quite slide on the center tube so put them in a vise and pressed the nipples on 3/4 of the way and then worked (twisted) them back off. Brake kleened both pieces and then lightly soldered the nipple threads and then soldered the coupler filling the crimp base, then put the nipple on and tapped it till it seated then took the heat off of it. Think it should hold for a few more years now. LOL

Thanks for looking. 

JC-WI wrote: ...I decided it was time to try the LeTourneau double drum cable winch, which only one drum is currently used. I do not like the looks of the old rusty cable which has wires poking out of it's structure. But wanted the to see if the blade would raise. after several times of bumping the control lever, it finally started lifting and raised the blade up.  Good and it held too...

May I suggest holding it up with a chain so as to not have to worry about it later?

JC-WI wrote: Or call in a big Huey to give it a lift?

I'm not sure if even the CH53D models I worked on during my Marine Corps days would lift that, perhaps the new CH53E model would do?

JC-WI wrote: Les, some times it amounts to being to stubborn to quit.

Keep up the good work and thanks for the updates

Had not thought of using vacuum on the tank, that would work...  

It's just not close to electricity at this time... yet.

  Don't know exactly when will get back to it again.

Update- Spent 3 hours Saturday and got HD19 moved about 25 feet from the nose down slope it was in to a little more friendlier ground to work on getting the track on. Track was on the front idler to start with, but with the track off the rear sprocket, and truck rollers not on the chain, it led to a track getting up against dozer frame at the front, and track chain on the top side of rear sprocket.  

 Today with railroad ties and 20 ton bottle jacks, we jacked the left side back end up and shoved a tie under the front left side and jacked it up until track could slide under idler wheel. Then worked to get track on rear sprocket all the way with a bobcat, then pushed top and bottom to line up with rollers. That didn't work to well near the idler wheel, we  had to pull track forward the best we could to start getting it over the edge of the idler.  We had come-alongs and chain binders pulling on the track forward and upward using the dozer blade and front frame to anchor into. Idler wheel has no bearings left in it so that was pried back as far as we could get it... there was enough slack in the end to finally allow track to go over the two center ribs...  Funnier part was, while pushing on the bottom, the idler shifted and part of the top side decided to allow the chain to start coming off on the inside and had nephew push on idler with the bobcat to get it aligned with the chain and suddenly it all seemed to jump and chain was finally on idler.  We then aligned the track chain to the lower rollers and took out rear jack and held the front up enough to rest idler in a mid position. Then we cut 1 1/2 - 2 inch wide 10" long strips of wood and sledge them into the hub of the roller got 4 of them in and the forth was hard to get in so we didn't drive any more in though I had figured there should have been 8 or 9 if the sides had been cut for going around the 3" shaft and inside the circumference of the idler's 6" hub. 

  We fired the Detroit up and backed it up to more level ground and found the right clutch does work, but need to stand on the brake to get it to let go.  The left brake stops the torque converter at full throttle with left clutch pulled.

 With the wood strips in the hub, the idler wheel stays pretty straight, even when turning.

  But it moves now, that's the good part.  Now to find a ride home for it.

Here are some more pics of the pretty ugly old dozer, What can you expect when your almost 80 years old...

 This was Saturday at 3pm.

and at 6pm, moved about 25 feet and got track on sprocket at top... Doesn't look much better. arrgh

And Sunday at 7:30 track on and sitting on level ground.

Gemdozer

- "I have  some new boots 051629-some newsprings assambly 051959-some new rings seal  076354-some new gaskets ring seal - 051622 "

 Gemdozer, from what I can see in parts book is the seal kit 076354 contains Items;

                     12 - 051629 - boot seal,

                     14 - ------    - ring seal,

                     15 - 051622 - gasket.

 

Still need item 13 - 051959 - spring assembly (which you have),

     and items   16 - 051620 - Guard assembly seal (contains item 17)

                      17 - 051964 - pin - seal guard

  So two kits of seal kit 076354,

 two spring assemblies 051959,

 two guard assemblies  051620

 would be all the seals I need for one front Idler, correct?

  Gemdozer, do you also have the the 051620 guard assemblies?

Would be nice if I could find a better 051621 shaft and couple 051617 bearing retainers As mentioned before, probably weld this one up and turn it down or find a 3" shaft and turn it down. Wonder what grade of steel the shaft was made from?

 I have new bearing cup and cones for the idler wheel, now to get slack adjusters freed up and loosened to get assembly out to work on it.