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MadCow 
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Joined: 27 Aug 2023
Location: South Dakota
Points: 189
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 Topic: 190xt transmission dilemma
Posted: 26 Jan 2026 at 11:16pm |
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I have a gas 190XT, snap coupler. I prefer snap coupler, and since everything I have is gas, I prefer gas. I also like the sound of it running better. It also doesn't have the weird horse door cab where the one door opens in and the top opens out.
I have a 190XT diesel. 3pt. Recently "overhauled" (don't know exactly what) engine. It has the factory cab with the dorky doors.
However. The diesel doesn't jump any gears. Goes in hard and solid and stays. The gas jumps out of second. Up hill, down hill, load, no load. With a bungie cord hooked up right it's mitigated.
I put maybe 150 hours on all tractors combined a year. And I do like mechanical work. I'm slowly building up and this is the tractor that'll be growing with me. So the question is:
Do I go with the diesel and swap all the snap coupler stuff over? Do I try to swap the transmissions and hitches so the gas has the best of it all? Do I calibrate my bungee cord and wait for a transmission rebuild?
1st, 3rd, 4th, reverse all work fine. And I do really prefer the gas over the diesel.
This is far planning, just changes whether I sell the extra tractor now, or hold on or swap.
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IBWD MIke
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Joined: 08 Apr 2012
Location: Newton Ia.
Points: 4237
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Posted: 27 Jan 2026 at 7:09am |
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If I were you I'd keep both and fix the tranny in the gas tractor. Can't imagine getting rid of a good running 190 D.
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Ed (Ont)
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Joined: 08 Nov 2009
Location: New Lowell, Ont
Points: 1577
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Posted: 27 Jan 2026 at 8:25am |
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Those 190 diesels seem to be desirable. I would keep both in their original state. I would like one myself but unfortunately have no use for it.
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A&Sfarms
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Joined: 02 Nov 2021
Location: Fletcher, Ohio
Points: 24
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Posted: 27 Jan 2026 at 1:27pm |
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Tractor Data says the gas uses 7.2 gal/hour and the diesel uses 5.3 gal/hour at rated speed. Something to consider since you said it will be the tractor you grow with. We are all out here waiting for input costs to come down... Plus the diesel will be cheaper to operate considering it doesn't have transmission problems. Our 7060 sits fairly often because the XT is so much cheaper to run
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 27 Jan 2026 at 7:17pm |
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At least remove the shift cover and take a look. Maybe you just have a broken shift fork? Wouldn't that be nice !!
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
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Posted: 27 Jan 2026 at 8:48pm |
 A&Sfarms wrote:
Tractor Data says the gas uses 7.2 gal/hour and the diesel uses 5.3 gal/hour at rated speed. Something to consider since you said it will be the tractor you grow with. We are all out here waiting for input costs to come down... Plus the diesel will be cheaper to operate considering it doesn't have transmission problems. Our 7060 sits fairly often because the XT is so much cheaper to run |
I had a gas 190XT for a few years used to bale with it,burned about 4 gal/hour
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A&Sfarms
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Joined: 02 Nov 2021
Location: Fletcher, Ohio
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Posted: 28 Jan 2026 at 10:04am |
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The 7.2 number comes from a dyno test at full load. I'm sure baling doesn't put that much load on the engine. Just using those numbers for comparison. It might not be that large of a difference at all speeds/loads, but its also not insignificant when you look at costs per acre at the end of the year
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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Posted: 28 Jan 2026 at 11:49am |
MadCow wrote:
...
This is far planning, just changes whether I sell the extra tractor now, or hold on or swap. |
Keep the diesel for now to use while you have the gasser torn down for repairs. Once the gasser is fixed, then decide whether or not to keep the diesel.
The difference in fuel costs at ~150 hours per year total time on all of your tractors will be a minor part of your total operating expenses. JMHO, your mileage may vary  |
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Calvin Schmidt
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario Can.
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Posted: 31 Jan 2026 at 8:25pm |
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My OneNinety Beachmaster would not stay in 4th gear when I got it. In fact, I couldn't hold in 4th gear. Removed the cover and it looked like the shift collar still some good flat surface. We moved the shift rod detent approx. .125" and now I can't make it jump out of 4th.
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Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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MadCow
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Joined: 27 Aug 2023
Location: South Dakota
Points: 189
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Posted: 31 Jan 2026 at 11:19pm |
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Thanks for the input guys!
Unfortunately I gotta get cash for seed, spray, and Fertilizer. My legs are too hairy so I'll probably have to sell a tractor instead. Where I'm at I can get really good money for tractors.
I had these both shipped over 500 miles and they are both COMBINED less than a local 100hp tractor of any vintage would cost, almost.
Any pointers on where to find information about this shift fork thing? Sometimes it'll go all the way into 2nd, but still jump out, sometimes it seems like it doesn't want to seat all the way in. A bungie cord between the shifter and seat fixes the issue.
I do have a D15 gas as backup, unpleasant to run a square baler with though. But it'll pull the planter, rake, and cultivator.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8858
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Posted: 01 Feb 2026 at 1:23pm |
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A basic test for detent relocation is to shift into gear,now see it lever will travel further when pressed into gear. Most do. Move the notch so lever doesn't have travel left. Tricky part is figuring out how much.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 01 Feb 2026 at 1:24pm
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Sids
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Joined: 16 Feb 2025
Location: belleville, ks
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Posted: 20 hours 5 minutes ago at 3:17pm |
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I like to put a small piece of play dough or some putty that will stay put between the shift collar and the gear. Put shift cover on then shift in to gear, move back to neutral, remove cover and see how much the clay is smashed. You then know how much to move the detent notch.
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tom51
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Joined: 04 Apr 2019
Location: USA
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Posted: 13 hours 26 minutes ago at 9:56pm |
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Try tin foil
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
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Posted: 3 hours 26 minutes ago at 7:56am |
I'm like you in that I love my gassers. We still use diesels for all the heavy-tillage and high-use tractors. But I love the simplicity, ease of winter starting, and easy repairs of gassers. And my 180 gasser with its G2500 (similar to the G2800 in your XT gasser) is my favourite. Those were superb engines.
But despite all that, if I was in your shoes I'd probably be doing the opposite of everything you're thinking. From your current and previous posts on here, it sounds like you're not into collecting nor strictly looking for oddball/rare units. You want a 190-sized tractor to be your primary large tractor on your farm. And given that the diesel is recently rebuilt, is mated to the better tranny, and has the three-point, it would be a great all-around unit and serve you for many years.
For only 150 hours a year, the gas vs. diesel is more personal preference. But I'd definitely be keeping the three-point on whatever unit I kept. While I applaud your desire to be an Allis purist and stick with the snap-coupler, you're limiting yourself to a very, very narrow sub-set of Allis implements from a very specific time period. With a three point, you're opening up your implement possibilities to everything made by pretty much every manufacturer, ever.
Even if you want to stick with Allis implements, for any implements appropriately-sized for a 190 you'll have far better luck finding Allis three-point implements rather than snap-coupler. It would be different if this were a D17 or smaller, because there are still lots of smaller snap-coupler implements that size out there. But most implements sized for a D17 or smaller will be waaaay too small for a 190. Snap coupler implements large enough for a 190 are few and far between, and getting rarer every day. Whereas three-point implements that size (including Allis implements) are readily-available. It's worth considering the long-term: What happens if in 10 years you wanted to buy a mower, bush hog, mounted tillage unit, or any other implement?
Regardless of which you keep, I'd also try to fix the gear-jumping issue without splitting it or tearing apart the tranny. As others have mentioned, there are a few common fixes for gear-jumping issues that can be done quickly/easily by just pulling the top cover, and they usually fix the issue. I'll confess, however, that I'd never done these for a 190 - only for 180 and smaller. But the theory/procedure should be the same:
i) Turn the shift rod and grind a new detent spot for more engagement. The Allis service bulletin for the 185 suggested only 0.060", but like others have said above, I strongly recommend going deeper (at least 0.100") if you have the stroke. Agco used to sell deep-shift rods for the smaller tractors. Not sure if they ever did for the 190, and they stopped offering them for the smaller tractors a few years ago, so I'm sure you're limited to modifying your old one. Pretty quick/easy to do.
ii) Replace the detent ball spring with a stiffer/stronger spring (Dr. Allis has alternatively suggested putting a second spring inside the original).
iii) Replace the shift fork for 3rd/4th: The original forks didn't have a lot of meat on the engagement surfaces and got worn down. They also didn't have much reinforcement to prevent the 'prongs' from bending. They'd bend/wear over time and not engage the gears as deeply. The new shift forks are a little beefier. The 190 uses the same 3rd/4th shift fork as the 180/185, and they're still available (DJS has them for $100). If you do end up putting a new shift fork in, make sure you do that and check how much extra stroke you have before grinding a new detent spot (you might find you have less extra stroke after replacing the shift fork).
The only reason I can see to sell the diesel instead of the gasser is if you really need the cash. A diesel 190 with a rebuilt engine, good tranny, and three-point is still a very useful/desirable tractor and will fetch a good price. A 190 gasser with a snap-coupler and jumping tranny would bring little more than scrap price around here. But regardless of that: Using the potential selling price to decide which to keep would be pretty short-term planning in my opinion: You'll never get a tractor that size cheaper/easier than the ones you already have. So if you plan on keeping one for a while, better keep the best one.
My vote: Try popping the cover off the gasser's tranny and doing the quick/easy gear jumping repairs mentioned above. If you can fix the tranny jumping, it's at least somewhat sellable, and also more convenient (and safer) if you end up keeping it. Then use them both for a bit and decide which you like best. And I strongly suggest keeping the three-point on whatever one you keep.
Edited by DanielW - 3 hours 13 minutes ago at 8:09am
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022
Location: Ontario
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Posted: 3 hours 7 minutes ago at 8:15am |
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I should amend my previous reply: I suggested replacing the 3rd/4th shift fork, because that's the one that usually wears/jumps. Bur re-reading your original post, I see it's second that's jumping. Same thing applies, just with the 1st/2nd shift fork. Also still available - part #70246558.
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Lynn Marshall
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 1 hour 6 minutes ago at 10:16am |
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Excellent advice from DanielW.
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