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farmtechguy 
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Joined: 24 Dec 2025
Location: United States
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 Topic: 460 loader control valve options
Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 10:36am |
Greetings,
I acquired a 160 diesel with (I believe) an OEM 460 loader the other day. After using the loader a bit it's apparent I have an internal hydraulic leak as the bucket slowly sinks with a load in it.
I'm inclined to think it's in the control valve. When I go to lift the bucket, if I only open the valve ever so slightly, the loader drops. Once I open the valve enough, it lifts just fine.
My question is: couldn't I just replace the valve with a cheaper universal spool valve from ebay? I'm sure the cylinders could use a seal job as well.
Your input is much appreciated!
Edited by farmtechguy - 24 Dec 2025 at 10:38am
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ac160
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Joined: 02 Dec 2010
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Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 11:29am |
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Try changing the packing in the cylinders first. I have a 460 loader on a 6070 that leaked down with or without a load, and new packing solved that issue. There were two versions of the 460 loader, one for a 160 and the other for the 6060 - 6080.
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Ray54
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Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Location: Paso Robles, Ca
Points: 4801
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Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 1:08pm |
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I would agree start with the cylinders first. But there is a no tools required way to check. When you first start the tractor run the loader up and let it leak down a number of times. As it is lowering put your hand on it, the bypassing oil will create heat. If you cannot feel any warming of the cylinder, then the valve is your leak.
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 24 Dec 2025 at 1:53pm |
Thanks for the replies. I picked up a 4x5 round bale and definitely have gland seal leaks on two of the cylinders. I'll do the test you describe here in a little bit and report back.
Do you guys think an internal cylinder leak could be the cause of the "dead" spot when opening the control valves? It's pretty bad when I it loaded up.
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Virginia
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Posted: 25 Dec 2025 at 9:00am |
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I'm having a similar problem with a tractor and loader I recently bought.Except the loader doesn't leak down when sitting but when in use when a I pull the lever to raise the loader it'll drop some before it starts to go up.I'm thinking its the valve but maybe not.Taking it to a shop near Harrisonburg VA they are very good on hydraulics.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 6:06am |
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Some hydraulic valves have a "load check" valve built into them. This is supposed to eliminate drop first and then lift situation. Some of these load checks are only on one side of the spool, meaning if your lever operates backwards to lift, the load check isn't working on the load side, but the lowering side. Again, not all hydraulic valves are equipped with load checks. Your results may vary.
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 26 Dec 2025 at 9:10pm |
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Did you by chance buy the 160 in Orange Va? I missed out on that one. As they say a day late and a dollar short.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 23 hours 9 minutes ago at 12:25pm |
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Makes sense. This appears to be an OEM spool valve. The check valves would certainly be built-in right? Not having the ability to feather would be really annoying.
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 22 hours 60 minutes ago at 12:34pm |
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So it appears I have leaky cylinders. Considering that new ones can be found pretty cheap online, could I get away with a 2" bore on the lift cylinders? The OEM ones seem to be an odd ball size and I can't find new ones in the exact bore/length combination.
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Jim.ME
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Location: Maine
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Posted: 16 hours 37 minutes ago at 6:57pm |
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You should match what is there are you will affect the functions of you loader. Reducing cylinder bore reduces lifting capacity. Reducing OAL and/or stroke reduces lifting height. Reducing the rod diameter can lead to bending rods.
Why not rebuild the cylinders the loader?
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AC720Man
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Posted: 16 hours 15 minutes ago at 7:19pm |
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Having the cylinders repacked is your best option. Staying with what was designed for the loader is the correct way to do it. A qualified hydraulic shop should have no problem doing that. I have multiple shops locally that can handle it. I have that very loader for my 160. Is your loader driven by a pump off the front of the crankshaft or off the remotes on the back of the tractor?
Edited by AC720Man - 16 hours 13 minutes ago at 7:21pm
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 14 hours 48 minutes ago at 8:46pm |
I'm probably going to have the cylinders rebuilt. Reason I was looking at new cylinders is that most of the shops in my area wanted a small fortune per cylinder to rebuild. One was almost double the cost of a new cylinder. I found a place a bit further away that gave me a reasonable quote
The cylinders I was looking at had larger bores than the OEM ones.
Edited by farmtechguy - 14 hours 46 minutes ago at 8:48pm
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 14 hours 47 minutes ago at 8:47pm |
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AC720Man: It's the version with the pump driven off the crankshaft.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 11 hours 31 minutes ago at 12:03am |
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That’s the best type to have, separate pump instead of off the rear remotes. The hydraulics on One-Sixty’s(letter tractors)can be problematic at times. The later model 160’s(number tractors) were improved but also have their issues. Mine occasionally will not lift the lift arms if it sets for some time, like over the winter unless I’m using it occasionally. Bleeding the rear remotes as I cycle the remotes clears up the issue as it appears to have air in the system. Just some info for you in case you’re new to the 160 model. Make sure you keep the hydraulic filter clean and with good quality 821 hydraulic oil. Neat tractor, unfortunately they are difficult to get parts for. The cleanable hydraulic filter is NLA.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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farmtechguy
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Posted: 1 hour 40 minutes ago at 9:54am |
I am new to the 160. In-fact it's my first AC, with most of my experience being on IH/Farmalls.
Does the tractors "native" hydraulic pump power the power-steering? I'm having issues with that as well where it's really stiff and difficult to turn at slow speeds. Plenty of fluid albeit it seems a bit thin.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 10 minutes ago at 11:24am |
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Power steering is a separate pump between the frame members up near the front of the engine. Is this an early One-Sixty or a 160 number tractor? The 160 is the later model. It could be low on fluid, dirty filter, or loose drive belt. Pain in the butt to adjust the belt.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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