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190XT Carb Replacement/Rebuild

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MadCow View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 190XT Carb Replacement/Rebuild
    Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 9:53pm
The carb on my 190XT is missing the idle jet and idle speed screws, at least I'm pretty sure.

Is there a super complete kit that would have these, or is there a better replacement (zenith)?

Edited by MadCow - 27 Dec 2025 at 10:20pm
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 10:09pm
You have a Holley ??    I'd imagine accurate parts would be difficult to come by, but I could be wrong.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 1:25pm
I guess not. It looked like the manual so I didn't question it.

Bendi9c 2-101?

Is this worth keeping or is there a better/more standard carb that I can replace it with that'll be more serviceable?





Edited by MadCow - 28 Dec 2025 at 1:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 2:02pm
I see the idle mixture screw. It isn't missing. The idle speed screw on the throttle shaft on the back side towards the eng block?? That would be a simple machine screw from a hardware store. An Idle jet ?  ?? that's internal...  Does the tractor now run ??   The numbers you give are a casting number which means nothing.   Zenith 13303 and   62AJ12 do mean something. There is a place called The Carburetor Doctor that can fix you up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 2:32pm
I guess my issue is I don't know what carb this is so I don't know what screw is which or which direction to turn them. I have no manual.

There's this tag on the back? Does that say what carb this is?


I see the main mixture, but no idle mixture. This screw on the front is not a mix screw. Idle adjust may be on the back but I didn't see anything.


It doesn't idle. And doesn't run well. The carb needs rebuilt or replaced. But I can't tell what carb this is, it looked enough like the manual I just assumed it was what the manual said it should be.

I'll check the carburetor doctor. Thanks!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 4:31pm
I told you what it was with the numbers I gave you. The angled adjustment screw is for idle speed mixture and normally is 1 1/2 turns out. The other screw holds the venturi in place and is a nothing burger for you. Main jet is fixed/non-adjustable and is in the bowl. Zenith/Bendix is the brand.

Edited by DrAllis - 28 Dec 2025 at 4:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 38 minutes ago at 9:48pm
Is there a better carb option for these? A Marvel? That's what's on my D15 and 8N and I know them. This one is not giving me confidence I can get it to run right.
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HudCo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 23 minutes ago at 10:03pm
nothing wrong with a zeinith  a new carb to replace will cost 500$,   seems like used ones are beat to death
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 hours 27 minutes ago at 10:59pm
Is that JB weld near the bowl gasket?
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 5 minutes ago at 7:21am
As the Doc said, it's a Zenith #62 carb, size 12 (Zenith assy. number 13327, model 62AJ12). But pretty much the same as any 62, size 12). Those 62 carbs came in a few different sizes (the one that came on the 180, for instance, is a size 10 if I remember right). Often the rebuild kits you get for them are compatible with a few different sizes of 62's: The only difference is usually the bowl gasket, so it's easier for the manufacturer of the kits to just throw in a couple gasket options and have the same kit compatible with a few different sizes of 62's.

I'd definitely be rebuilding the original and not replacing it if I were you. It's very, very (very) rare for a new/aftermarket carb to be as good as a properly rebuilt original. Usually, new/aftermarket ones much worse quality with lousy porting/machining. The only way to get a decent aftermarket carb is if you spend $500+. But even then, it's only going to be as good as a rebuilt original would be, but cost you 10X more. Rebuilding carbs is pretty easy/standard practice, and those carbs are dead simple to tear down and rebuild. In the last 5 years or so there seems to be a lot of folks trying to buy replacement carbs rather than just taking half an hour to rebuild the original, and a lot of problems resulting from it: The annals of all antique machinery forums are filled with stories & posts of folks who bought lousy aftermarket carbs, chucked the good OEM ones, and then have trouble getting them to run correctly. For tiny/simple carbs on small engines, aftermarket carbs are often great and function fine. But for any larger carb, you're far better to just spend a little time (and a fraction of the cost) rebuilding the original

As Doc mentions, 'The Carburetor Doctor' is a great source for parts & info on all carbs. Their rebuild kit for that carb is #CK0619 - cost about $50. You can usually find kits cheaper, but it's nice to support 'the carb doctor' because it's a great site/resource and you know you're getting the right kit. If you order one off Amazon or elsewhere for cheaper, it often takes a little more cross-referencing and checking to make sure you're getting it right. When I did a carb for a 180 not long ago for example, Amazon listed two carb kits compatible with the Zenith I had. Both listed the Zenith # I had and both said they worked for the standard carbs on the 180 and 190, which definitely wasn't true as they were different kits, and the 180 and 190 used different sizes of Zeniths 62's. Took me a little more cross-referencing to find out which one I wanted. Better to just spend the few extra $ and get the one that is definitely correct from the carb doctor. See link below:



Edited by DanielW - 3 hours 48 minutes ago at 7:38am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 22 minutes ago at 8:04am
DR --- The angled adjustment screw is for idle speed mixture and normally is 1 1/2 turns out. The other screw holds the venturi in place and is a nothing burger for you. Main jet is fixed/non-adjustable and is in the bowl. Zenith/Bendix is the brand.

it is obvious from the photo with the glue stuck to the gasket joint, that this needs disassembled and completly cleaned .. Jets need rodded out, gasket face needs checked for FLAT , new gasket, set float level, etc...

that THROTTLE ROD seen in the upper right side does not appear to set too far off center from the throttle shaft.. normally there is an ARM that it attches to, and the arm is an inch or two long.... looks REAL SHORT in this photo angle ?




Edited by steve(ill) - 3 hours 11 minutes ago at 8:15am
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wjohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 9 minutes ago at 8:17am
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

it is obvious from the photo with the glue stuck to the gasket joint, that this needs disassembled and completly cleaned .. Jets need rodded out, gasket face needs checked for FLAT , new gasket, set float level, etc...

That is what I am thinking too. It looks like someone was in there before, and based on the fact that they used some kind of epoxy or other hard sealant... Not too sure I'd be confident in whatever else they did inside the carb.
1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 1 minutes ago at 8:25am
The throttle shaft arm is "up" from shaft centerline and is quite short. I'd say about 3/4" to 7/8" c to c.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 2 hours 15 minutes ago at 9:11am
I've rebuilt a few carbs in my life, this one just looked like it has enough farmer-ization rebuilding would leave me guessing if I got it back to good enough. I was hoping for a rebuilt original, of potentially a different/better model, to start from a known quantity. Got the tractor cheap enough I have the dough to throw down on one.

Steve/Doc Sharp eyes. I was expecting some issues with linkages when I did take the carb off. I'll probably be back with questions.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 34 minutes ago at 9:52am
ya never know till you try.. It does RUN, so it should be rebuildable...to answer your question ... no, there is not a "better" carb to use.. Its the Condition of the carb, not the make that matters....
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 1 hour 19 minutes ago at 10:07am
Originally posted by MadCow MadCow wrote:

I've rebuilt a few carbs in my life, this one just looked like it has enough farmer-ization rebuilding would leave me guessing if I got it back to good enough.

It's not proper to judge based off a picture, but even though there are signs of some farmerization/cobblefication, I would certainly think it's usable/rebuildable without much concern. As Steve notes: It's currently running and looks complete, so it can't be too bad. A few other things to consider when you're working on it:

i) Hard to tell from the picture, but it looks like something might be awry with the carb-manifold interface. On the left side you can see the gasket, and also see the attachment bolt poking through a few threads like it should be. But on the right side it looks like there's a gap where the gasket should be, and the bolt threads don't protrude through at all. I wouldn't be surprised if you find something's up with that interface and it's currently sucking air. Make sure those surfaces are clean and flat with a new gasket and bolts torqued evenly.

ii) The section of rad hose used between intake pipe and carb is a little wacky. Not only because the PO has it clamped off the carb body for some reason. But on those higher-displacement gassers, it's not uncommon for them to flood and put a bunch of fuel into the intake tube if it's cranked excessively with the choke on. You want to make sure that hose is fuel-compatible and not going to disintegrate if in contact with fuel. I used a silicone hose from Amazon for my 180.

Just fyi: There have been a few cases talked about on here in the past year or so of the mechanical fuel pumps on these old gassers going bad (cracked diaphragm) and dumping a pile of gas into the crankcase. Rebuild kits for the mechanical fuel pump Allis used on the G2500's are available from 'Then and Now Automotive' in Weymouth, MA. Their part number for the kit is CK-4220. I'm not suggesting you need to rebuild it preemptively. Just keep an eye on it for any signs of fuel flow problems or dumping gas into the crankcase.

Good luck with it. I'd love to find a gasser 190. A chap up the road has one and I'm quite envious. I have the gasser 180 (same engine) and it's one of my favourite tractors. A little thirsty when on the plow or round baler, but it purrs like a kitten down to 200-300 RPM, starts instantly in all weather, and is superbly smooth.


Edited by DanielW - 1 hour 18 minutes ago at 10:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 8 minutes ago at 11:18am
Quote
Just fyi: There have been a few cases talked about on here in the past year or so of the mechanical fuel pumps on these old gassers going bad (cracked diaphragm) and dumping a pile of gas into the crankcase. Rebuild kits for the mechanical fuel pump Allis used on the G2500's are available from 'Then and Now Automotive' in Weymouth, MA. Their part number for the kit is CK-4220. I'm not suggesting you need to rebuild it preemptively. Just keep an eye on it for any signs of fuel flow problems or dumping gas into the crankcase.
Got new new fuel pump from DJS already installed. 


Quote
Good luck with it. I'd love to find a gasser 190. A chap up the road has one and I'm quite envious. I have the gasser 180 (same engine) and it's one of my favourite tractors. A little thirsty when on the plow or round baler, but it purrs like a kitten down to 200-300 RPM, starts instantly in all weather, and is superbly smooth.

I first bought a Diesel with 3pt before I found this one. I'm coming from a gas D15 with Snap Coupler and have all snap coupler stuff, and I honestly prefer the system over 3pt. I was telling my wife last night that going from the D15 to the Diesel I had to constantly tell my self "this is an objectively better tractor" because it just felt wrong. Runs like a diesel, feels like a "fullsize" tractor... Whereas this gasser, though it's in rougher shape than the diesel (which had a recent engine overhaul), feels like moving from an old home (D15) to a new home. Just sounds right, feels right. I'll be selling the diesel when I change the spinout rims to the gasser. Doesn't make logical sense, but I farm for fun. So I can pick a tractor I LIKE over a tractor that's BETTER, and If I have to work on it, that's just more time spent with my tractor. :)
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