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MadCow 
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Joined: 27 Aug 2023
Location: South Dakota
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 Topic: 190XT Carb Replacement/Rebuild
Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 9:53pm |
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The carb on my 190XT is missing the idle jet and idle speed screws, at least I'm pretty sure.
Is there a super complete kit that would have these, or is there a better replacement (zenith)?
Edited by MadCow - 27 Dec 2025 at 10:20pm
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 27 Dec 2025 at 10:09pm |
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You have a Holley ?? I'd imagine accurate parts would be difficult to come by, but I could be wrong.
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MadCow
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Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 1:25pm |
I guess not. It looked like the manual so I didn't question it. Bendi9c 2-101? Is this worth keeping or is there a better/more standard carb that I can replace it with that'll be more serviceable?  
Edited by MadCow - 28 Dec 2025 at 1:26pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 2:02pm |
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I see the idle mixture screw. It isn't missing. The idle speed screw on the throttle shaft on the back side towards the eng block?? That would be a simple machine screw from a hardware store. An Idle jet ? ?? that's internal... Does the tractor now run ?? The numbers you give are a casting number which means nothing. Zenith 13303 and 62AJ12 do mean something. There is a place called The Carburetor Doctor that can fix you up.
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MadCow
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Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 2:32pm |
I guess my issue is I don't know what carb this is so I don't know what screw is which or which direction to turn them. I have no manual. There's this tag on the back? Does that say what carb this is?  I see the main mixture, but no idle mixture. This screw on the front is not a mix screw. Idle adjust may be on the back but I didn't see anything.  It doesn't idle. And doesn't run well. The carb needs rebuilt or replaced. But I can't tell what carb this is, it looked enough like the manual I just assumed it was what the manual said it should be. I'll check the carburetor doctor. Thanks!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 28 Dec 2025 at 4:31pm |
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I told you what it was with the numbers I gave you. The angled adjustment screw is for idle speed mixture and normally is 1 1/2 turns out. The other screw holds the venturi in place and is a nothing burger for you. Main jet is fixed/non-adjustable and is in the bowl. Zenith/Bendix is the brand.
Edited by DrAllis - 28 Dec 2025 at 4:47pm
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MadCow
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Posted: 12 hours 10 minutes ago at 9:48pm |
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Is there a better carb option for these? A Marvel? That's what's on my D15 and 8N and I know them. This one is not giving me confidence I can get it to run right.
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HudCo
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Posted: 11 hours 55 minutes ago at 10:03pm |
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nothing wrong with a zeinith a new carb to replace will cost 500$, seems like used ones are beat to death
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wjohn
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Posted: 10 hours 59 minutes ago at 10:59pm |
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Is that JB weld near the bowl gasket?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DanielW
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Posted: 2 hours 37 minutes ago at 7:21am |
As the Doc said, it's a Zenith #62 carb, size 12 (Zenith assy. number 13327, model 62AJ12). But pretty much the same as any 62, size 12). Those 62 carbs came in a few different sizes (the one that came on the 180, for instance, is a size 10 if I remember right). Often the rebuild kits you get for them are compatible with a few different sizes of 62's: The only difference is usually the bowl gasket, so it's easier for the manufacturer of the kits to just throw in a couple gasket options and have the same kit compatible with a few different sizes of 62's.
I'd definitely be rebuilding the original and not replacing it if I were you. It's very, very (very) rare for a new/aftermarket carb to be as good as a properly rebuilt original. Usually, new/aftermarket ones much worse quality with lousy porting/machining. The only way to get a decent aftermarket carb is if you spend $500+. But even then, it's only going to be as good as a rebuilt original would be, but cost you 10X more. Rebuilding carbs is pretty easy/standard practice, and those carbs are dead simple to tear down and rebuild. In the last 5 years or so there seems to be a lot of folks trying to buy replacement carbs rather than just taking half an hour to rebuild the original, and a lot of problems resulting from it: The annals of all antique machinery forums are filled with stories & posts of folks who bought lousy aftermarket carbs, chucked the good OEM ones, and then have trouble getting them to run correctly. For tiny/simple carbs on small engines, aftermarket carbs are often great and function fine. But for any larger carb, you're far better to just spend a little time (and a fraction of the cost) rebuilding the original
As Doc mentions, 'The Carburetor Doctor' is a great source for parts & info on all carbs. Their rebuild kit for that carb is #CK0619 - cost about $50. You can usually find kits cheaper, but it's nice to support 'the carb doctor' because it's a great site/resource and you know you're getting the right kit. If you order one off Amazon or elsewhere for cheaper, it often takes a little more cross-referencing and checking to make sure you're getting it right. When I did a carb for a 180 not long ago for example, Amazon listed two carb kits compatible with the Zenith I had. Both listed the Zenith # I had and both said they worked for the standard carbs on the 180 and 190, which definitely wasn't true as they were different kits, and the 180 and 190 used different sizes of Zeniths 62's. Took me a little more cross-referencing to find out which one I wanted. Better to just spend the few extra $ and get the one that is definitely correct from the carb doctor. See link below:
Edited by DanielW - 2 hours 20 minutes ago at 7:38am
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 1 hour 54 minutes ago at 8:04am |
DR --- The angled adjustment screw is for idle speed mixture and normally is 1 1/2 turns out. The other screw holds the venturi in place and is a nothing burger for you. Main jet is fixed/non-adjustable and is in the bowl. Zenith/Bendix is the brand.
it is obvious from the photo with the glue stuck to the gasket joint, that this needs disassembled and completly cleaned .. Jets need rodded out, gasket face needs checked for FLAT , new gasket, set float level, etc...
that THROTTLE ROD seen in the upper right side does not appear to set too far off center from the throttle shaft.. normally there is an ARM that it attches to, and the arm is an inch or two long.... looks REAL SHORT in this photo angle ?
Edited by steve(ill) - 1 hour 43 minutes ago at 8:15am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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wjohn
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Posted: 1 hour 41 minutes ago at 8:17am |
 steve(ill) wrote:
it is obvious from the photo with the glue stuck to the gasket joint, that this needs disassembled and completly cleaned .. Jets need rodded out, gasket face needs checked for FLAT , new gasket, set float level, etc... |
That is what I am thinking too. It looks like someone was in there before, and based on the fact that they used some kind of epoxy or other hard sealant... Not too sure I'd be confident in whatever else they did inside the carb.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 1 hour 33 minutes ago at 8:25am |
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The throttle shaft arm is "up" from shaft centerline and is quite short. I'd say about 3/4" to 7/8" c to c.
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MadCow
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Posted: 47 minutes ago at 9:11am |
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I've rebuilt a few carbs in my life, this one just looked like it has enough farmer-ization rebuilding would leave me guessing if I got it back to good enough. I was hoping for a rebuilt original, of potentially a different/better model, to start from a known quantity. Got the tractor cheap enough I have the dough to throw down on one.
Steve/Doc Sharp eyes. I was expecting some issues with linkages when I did take the carb off. I'll probably be back with questions.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 6 minutes ago at 9:52am |
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ya never know till you try.. It does RUN, so it should be rebuildable...to answer your question ... no, there is not a "better" carb to use.. Its the Condition of the carb, not the make that matters....
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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