Another tire blow out…………

on our tow dolly. This is the 3rd blow out in less than 7,000 miles, 2nd time the blow-out as totally torn off the plastic fender and lights. ST205/75R14, load range D is the one that blew yesterday. Always kept at proper psi, no dry rot or cracks. Have never had anything heavier than a 2004 Ford Taurus, yesterday was hauling a Honda CRV. What brand of ST tires have others here have decent luck with? TIA.

I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.

when I was pulling a camper I had too many ply separations with ST tires. Switched to LT tires and nary a problem after that. They were LR E and I ran them at 80psi which was what was max for the E.

Ed (Ont) wrote:

What is your air pressure in the tires?

Sidewall stamped for 65 psi, that’s right where they are at.

I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.

Check the manufacture date on the tires. Someone may be selling you old tires that have been stored in a warehouse for too long.

Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.

Definitely was not a hot day, temp was mid-50’s.

I tried to follow the science, but it was not there. I then followed the money, and that’s where I found the science.

DMiller wrote:

Sad to say and sounds wasteful but at Six to Seven years REGARDLESS of Tread Level, the tires on my trailers GO AWAY. Learned that from a Tire guy that was looking at nearly New Looking Trailer Tires were Date Coded eight years, NO WARRANTY to start, one threw a tread where the match to that on other side blew apart.

Yes you are absolutely correct. Tires years ago lasted for many years. Now you have to throw away after a few years. And we call that green!!!!! Lol.

I think i might be running 45 psi, not 65 psi in the tires.. BLOW OUTS for no reason are due to excess pressure. ... the "D" tire at 65 psi is rated for over 2000# each.. I doubt the front end of that car weighs 2500 #...... 45- 50 psi would be adequate..

Edited by steve(ill) - 10 Dec 2024 at 9:19pm

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

I would agree Dave, if you drop the pressure to 25 psi..... A "D" rated tire set at 45 psi would have a fairly rigid side wall... Dont think it would be a problem... I believe the 65 psi is the problem WITH the Blow outs.

Edited by steve(ill) - 11 Dec 2024 at 8:03am

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

The reason why tires blow without having an overload, overpressure, or serious bruse or cut, is contamination. Remove the remaining tire fragments, and send them to a lab for analysis, you'll find that there's some contamination inside the tire that caused the failure. Contamination not only results in weakening of the tire, it causes rubber inside the tire to flake off into a dust which is rather flammable. Frequently the contaminant is either an inappropriate tire mounting lubricant (i.e. motor oil or grease, rather than the water/soap based for-purpose swab lube), or some flammable substance used to ignition-inflate the tire. This is a deadly practice, and should NEVER be done.

Running at reduced pressure isn't a particularly good thing, unless the tire is totally unladen. Tires that run pressure too low will generate significant amounts of heat from the added contact patch's chord of flexure. Eventually, this heat increases tire pressure internally, but not by much in comparison to the heat that occurs between the layers of rubber and impregnated belting. Once inter-belt friction has worked up the temperature, belts delaminate, the rubber between becomes detached in layers, and more friction occurs, more heat develops, and eventually the tire blows and shreds.

Cheap chinese rubber (and the US equivalent 'artificial' rubbers) are lousy in comparison to what was available before 1980.

Any one of these circumstances will cause a confounding failure trend.

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

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