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7030 clutch slippage

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MrSnerdly View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Jan 2024
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    Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 12:42pm
My 7030 will slip sometimes.  I am sure it is the clutch and not the torque limiter since the PTO still turns.  You can completely stop the tractor and the engine will still be running, maybe not full rpm but probably half.  Funny part is, it doesn't do it all of the time.  I thought it was slipping but wasn't sure so I warmed the trans oil up to 130 degrees and tested but it wouldn't slip.  Today I thought it slipped and tested again and a few times it did slip but more often it would pull engine down and would have killed it but I stopped before it completely stalled.

I am thinking this is a major operation to replace the clutch discs, looks to me like the cab has to come off and it would be a big job compared to a dry clutch, correct?  Anyone have an idea how many hours and a guesstimate on parts prices?

Is it possible it could be a problem with low hydraulic pressure that applies the clutch?  If so, it would probably be wise to check all pressures before doing anything else.
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Alvin M View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alvin M Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 2:41pm
Check dip stick under the seat 
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 3:37pm
If your 1800 RPM light worked (I doubt that it does) it would help in diagnosis. Like Alvin says, check the oil under the seat on the LEVEL and after sitting overnite. I'll bet it's a couple gallons low on oil. If the 1800 RPM light actually worked, it would come on when the tractor slips indicating low oil pressure in the clutch hydraulic system.
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MrSnerdly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 3:58pm
The light works, doesn't come on until around 1600 RPM with oil at working temp.  I just changed hydraulic fluid and filters and I am pretty sure the level is Ok but I will check it again.
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MrSnerdly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 4:19pm
I checked trans fluid and it is actually quite a bit overfull.  I doubt this is the problem since it did it before I changed hydraulic fluid and all filters but it probably would be best if I got it at the correct level.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct 2024 at 10:31pm
Makes a difference if the slippage is in HIGH button or LOW button. A pressure gauge on top of the clutch valve should monitor what the clutch system is doing. 195 to 205 psi is spec at full throttle. Cab certainly never needs to be removed. Engine rolls away and clutch comes out thru the bell housing. You are nowhere near that point yet until problem is diagnosed properly first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2024 at 1:14pm
I consider the power director clutch on that series to be extremely tough and reliable. Given the age of the tractor, I guess that anything is possible. It would be very rare for both sides to be slipping unless there was low oil pressure being supplied to them. If one side is slipping, due to leak in that particular side, then the pressure light should indicate it. The rubber piston seals can get hard and brittle and cause poor engagement. If either side has been slipping for very long, then the clutch plates will warp. Warped clutch plates make it difficult to get into gear without grinding. The small transmission brake disc can't stop the momentum of the power director assembly. It's not that difficult to remove the PD assembly once the tractor is split. Clean oil, filter and then pressure checks are first.
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MrSnerdly View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Oct 2024 at 6:37pm
It slips in high and low both.  Maybe it is just low pressure.  I don't know how hard it is to get to the valve.  I wish I had a shop manual.  

I always thought the 7000 series were extremely well built, much heavier than what JD or IH had in that era. 

There is a retired AC mechanic about 35 miles from me that was excellent.  I plan on talking to him about it and maybe he could even look at it  and possibly do a little work on it.  Of course, if if does need to be split I doubt he would be interested.. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2024 at 1:04pm
Do the higher HP 7000 series  have the same clutch with same amount of plates?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lynn Marshall Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2024 at 8:27pm
No, the higher horsepower tractors have more clutch plates and the 7080,7580 used 6 spring washer stacks to return the low side piston. I believe that the complete clutch pack assembly from a higher horsepower tractor can be used in the smaller models.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2024 at 8:44pm
7010-20-30-40 all have the same clutch with 3 discs in low (inching) range and 2 in high range.  7045-50-60 are the same and have 4 discs in low (inching) and 2 discs in high.   Early 7080's were 4 and 2 with the low range separator plates are thicker to take more heat. Later 7080's were 5 and 3 if I remember right.  There is nothing under designed on your 7030 clutch assembly. If the entire system is up to specs it will work fine. I used to tractor pull a 7030 in the late 1970's with 300+ HP and never had any issues at all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrSnerdly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2024 at 9:46pm
I know the 7000 series is an excellent design.  I just love this old tractor, figure on making it my main tractor.  It beats my JD 4240 all to hell in almost every respect.  It isn't perfect yet, need to get a few things fixed, air conditioning being the most costly unless there really is something wrong with the clutch.  I am hoping it is low pressure since both low and high range can slip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nanuk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2024 at 10:57am
Originally posted by MrSnerdly MrSnerdly wrote:

I know the 7000 series is an excellent design.  I just love this old tractor, figure on making it my main tractor.  ...  It isn't perfect yet, need to get a few things fixed, air conditioning being the most costly ....

Ah... yes, that Air Conditioning thing

a LOT of used tractors for sale have no working AC.   I wonder why that is?
AC7060Pd 1975
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2024 at 11:05am
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2024 at 9:52pm
Cause they're owned by farmers. Got a 750K combine and new pickup truck but ain't spending nothing on that air system
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 2024 at 4:09am
The more you come home soaked in sweat and stinking, the harder you must have worked = to hell with aircon ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TCRanch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 6:12pm
Send me your email my wife has a digital copy we can send
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