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Allis Chalmers D14 6v to 12v conversion
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Isaiah Jones View Drop Down
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Joined: 18 May 2014
Location: Venedocia, Ohio
Points: 73 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Isaiah Jones Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Allis Chalmers D14 6v to 12v conversion
    Posted: Yesterday at 2:56pm
Hi there everyone. I have 1958/9 D14 and I'm looking into what all is required to convert it over to 12v. Anyone know what I need to purchase and how I go about converting it over. Thank you.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22223 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 4:01pm
hmm... does the starter have a steel band around it by the power stud ?

If so it IS a 12v starter !

or pull the starter out and count the pinion teeth. 9 teeth it's 12v, 10 teeth ,6 volt.

best to check anyway to confirm . I've had 4 d-14s, 3 were 6 volt, 1 was a true 12.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80084 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 4:22pm
A 6 volt starter will run on 12v.. just a little HARD on the engagement.. But there are THOUSANDS of old tractors doing this.... Starter dont care if its positive or negative ground, so make it NEG like every other truck / tractor built in the last 50 year.

You have a distributor and it  has a 6 v coil. You should switch to a 12 v coil with "internal 3 ohm resistance".... and the NEG side of the coil goes to the distributor.

Your amp meter will read backward if you go to NEG ground.. just switch the wires.

Need to determine if you want to keep the OLD 6v Generator and add a 12v REGULATOR to push it to charge the battery... Or get a NEWER alternator with internal regulator and simplify the wires.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 80084 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 4:31pm
something like this.... Decide if you want an alternator. ( better idea)..... or use the old generator..





Edited by steve(ill) - Yesterday at 4:33pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Points: 4593 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 10 minutes ago at 8:46pm
I have switched a few old tractors to 12 volts. One of the things I do is change the ammeter over to a volt meter.

With the factory 6 volt system, all the charging current goes through the ammeter. The ammeter wasn't designed to flow the amps at 12 volts that a modern alternator puts out.

I find the voltmeter safer and abetter to monitor the battery and charging system.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 80084 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 hours 2 minutes ago at 8:54pm
the reason for going to 12 v systems was with DOUBLE the voltage, you need HALF the amps to get the same power output... Now you could install a 100 amp alternator and it will still only put out 5 amps if that is what is needed.. Turn on the air cond, woofter radio and 20 flood lights and THEN you will need that alternator !!

Agree a voltmeter is easiler to monitor what is going INTO the battery as 14 v is obviously higher than 12 v on the gauge.. and the wire size is minimal compared to the amp meter which is carrying FULL CURRENT... Its hard to tell 0- 5 amps on a gauge and really does not tell you exactly what is going on with the battery.... but all of my OLD tractors still have amp gauges... just never changed.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
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Points: 8227 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 hours 36 minutes ago at 9:20pm
Yes i agree on the volt meter too. I like the Denso (small type) alternator. They fit nice. Probably need a new bracket to line up the alternator. Also you can use a diode between the alternator and the battery to keep it from draining the battery. Basically your making a custom electrical system. Not a bad thing and the tractor will start much better. I need to do this to our D14 also! Keep us posted with pictures!
Regards,
 Chris and Cheryl
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Phil48ACWC View Drop Down
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Joined: 17 Jan 2013
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Points: 286 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phil48ACWC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 hours 44 minutes ago at 6:12am
I converted my WC to 12V  25 years ago. No regrets. In the beginning, I left a 60 Amp Ammeter in place and I had to boost a dead battery in a car. I have a 100 Amp alternator in my WC and when boosting the car with the WC running, the alternator put out the full 100 amps and fried the 60 Amp Ammeter. I now have a Digital Volt meter in place for the last 24 years. No problems. So ya, voltmeter is the way to go. 

Edited by Phil48ACWC - 10 hours 32 minutes ago at 6:24am
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Points: 22223 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 hours 24 minutes ago at 6:32am
I've had 4 D-14s, replaced all the gennys with 'free to me' Delco CS130 series alternators, never had an ammeter fry, and Murphy always seems to be close by.
 A voltmeter isn't the same as an ammeter. It can read 'good / green / 14' and you can still have a bad battery.
An ammeter shows charge/discharge...actual current flow.

Several decades ago Detroit 'cheaped out', went to voltmeters as they are a LOT cheaper to make and install, and the 'world' followed their lead.

I suspect Phil's meter fried because his tractor battery had very low capacity (CCA) so couldn't supply the amps needed for the boost.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Les Kerf View Drop Down
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Joined: 08 May 2020
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Points: 747 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 9 hours 22 minutes ago at 7:34am
Originally posted by Sugarmaker Sugarmaker wrote:

...Also you can use a diode between the alternator and the battery to keep it from draining the battery...
Regards,
Chris and Cheryl

This will work of course but it also adds an additional 'diode drop' of approximately 0.7 Volts which results in heat losses; a diode rated for at least 20 volts and 50 amps (more is better) would be needed.

Since alternators already have the necessary diodes installed this is redundant.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Points: 80084 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 7 hours 53 minutes ago at 9:03am
there needs to be a slight voltage drop between the two small spade terminals 1 and 2 on most alternators.. to make them charge........ The drawing shows an "idiot light"... this can also be a RESISTOR.. or even a DIODE........

As Les said, dont put a diode in the BIG LINE ( main charge line to battery )
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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