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ACinSC 
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 Topic: Drill bit
Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 12:53pm |
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Trying to enlarge a 1/2" hole in 1/4" steel to 9/16" . Bought a $17 bit at TSC and it's not working very well . Can someone recommend a better drill bit ? This one's a MIBRO . THANKS !!
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 12:59pm |
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lot of times i take a 1/4 inch air die grinder and BURR the hole out... if i only need 1/16 or an inch or so.. Some steel plates are HARD and drills can have a bad time... Carbide GRINDER will burr it out quick.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 2:34pm |
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Thanks Steve , I don't have a die grinder . Did manage to drill one hole out . C-clamped a board to the back side as I was leaning on the drill pretty heavy and didn't want it to come thru too hard . Thanks again .
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DMiller
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 2:43pm |
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Push Drills do not work so well, a Drill Press or on a Steel Structure a Mag Drill with controllable feed speed is the ticket. Or use Bridge Reamers.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 3:40pm |
Drill press with a cheap HF step drill will run circles around doing it with a hand drill... 
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ACinSC
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 4:00pm |
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This won't fit in my bench top drill press. I did wonder about a step drill bit. Thanks
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 4:34pm |
IF you have a really good drill, either Milwaukee or that biggest one Harbor Freight sells, you can turn it into a drill-press of sorts by employing a 2x4 or a Crow-bar or anything that can put more pressure straight into the bit than you can by just pushing.
I was drilling through a thick 2x3 mud-flap cross-member the other day with that $10 right-angle drill attachment that Harbor Freight has sold ever since I was a little boy.
None of my purpose-made right angle drills would even get close to fitting in there; but, by shortening a drill bit and using that little right angle attachment, I was able to get the drill and bit where I needed it.
The thing was, in such cramped quarters, I couldn't put any real pressure on the drill.
I poked one of those wide Cat's Paw nail puller things up in there and got good purchase with the Cat's Paw resting behind the drill attachment.
I started drilling and applying pressure via the Cat's Paw and the shavings starting falling away and in seconds I was through.
Also, if you are only ever going to drill one hole in your life, buy the biggest Drill Doctor they make before you start.
Even with the best quality brand-new sharp as a razor's uncle drill bit, once you make a few feeble attempts at drilling and ain't getting anywhere, that bit is now dull --- put it to the Drill Doctor and try again.
As for big drill bits, I will vouch for that Silver & Deming set that Harbor Freight used to sell in a nice wooden box.
I think they start at 1/2 and go up by 16ths to 1-inch.
If they still carry them, I highly recommend them.
I can take what a single big bit costs in a hardware store and buy that entire set and I have confidence that they will probably be just as good or better than the hardware store bit --- in most cases.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 6:03pm |
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Thanks, I've always wondered about those drill Dr bit sharpeners.
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im4racin
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 6:21pm |
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Unibit. It’s a step bit. Works great
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 7:29pm |
OIL !! gotta use OIL !!!! I don't care who made the drill bit, LOTS of OIL,really ,really is needed correct speed and OIL..you can drill until you see smoke,then ADD OIL.... bits will last a long time WHEN you use OIL...
ANY kind works, I have 45 Imperial quarts of 10W40, so that's what I use. probably still be using it when I'm 6 feet under....
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ACinSC
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 8:12pm |
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Unibit? I'll check that out. Yeah Jay, I use lots of Rapid tap oil. Thanks guys!
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desertjoe
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 6:24am |
Years ago,,when a member of a Machinist Internet Forum,,,I learned how to put a Dang Good Sharp on drill bits by hand from the head dude of the forum. He posted a Tutorial that was so clear and helpful and if you paid attention you did not have to go buy any more drill bits until you wore em down to a nub where they were so short they would not chuck on your drill press,,,,, If I remember correctly, there are two "angles" ,,135° and another one I seem to have forgotten,,,, You also need a Drill gauge to check proper cutting angle and those bits will cut thru anything I work on,,,,  Like ole Jay says,,,you GOT to use plenty of tap oil,,,,Hope this helps,,,
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ACinSC
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 6:30am |
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Thanks Joe.
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 6:39am |
yeah doesn't have to be special 'tap' oil...ANY oil helps cool the keen edge sharp and pull away the cuttings.Something, anything is better than nothing. agree you MUST have SHARP bits and never use old bed rails as 'project steel' ! dang things are heat treated and you'll dull 4 bits before figuring THAT out......
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 7:03am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
and never use old bed rails as 'project steel' ! dang things are heat treated and you'll dull 4 bits before figuring THAT out......
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I figured that out many years ago and had forgotten the lesson until you brought it up.
The receiver on a BRNO 98 Mauser is not as hard to drill as a plain old bed rail.
As for oiling the bit, plain old water is even better than oil IF there is a continuous steady stream coming at it; it is the cooling more than the lubing that is necessary to keep the point from turning blue.
There are devices you can buy that have a big water reservoir and an aimable nozzle so you can point it right where it counts.
The reason most use oil is due to the fact that they are working by themselves, with no one to keep laying the cooling water into the bit.
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Codger
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 7:08am |
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118 degree, and 135 degree are very common included angles in twist drills. 60, and 90 degree angles are also common but not so much so for small, or hand usage type equipment. Water, or an emulsified mixture of cutting oil and water in a flood type system is best to prolong life in cutting tools.
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A career built on repairing and improving engineering design deficiencies, shortcomings, and failures over 50 years now.
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 7:29am |
desertjoe wrote:
,,,I learned how to put a Dang Good Sharp on drill bits by hand
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This brings two stories to mind.
Years ago, I was using my drill press and trying to drill a 5/8 hole through a piece of hard steel --- this was long before my Drill Doctor days.
The bit was squeeling and smoking with little if any progress being made.
Ol' Lewis Jessee walked up and was watching and said "Let me see that bit a minute"
I had this old table-mounted bench grinder that I had bought at a bankrupt dairy auction.
It was the kind where a motor resides under the table, with a belt and arbor.
You had to slap the belt to get the motor to take off; else, it just sat there and hummed.
The belt had sat in the same position for years, much too tight, and had developed a "set" with hard and soft places.
The very coarse "rock" was badly egg-shaped.
To say the rock had somewhat of a lope was a drastic understatement.
Ol' Lewis took that bit in hand and put it to that badly vibrating rough rock.
He eyeballed his progress and fine-tuned it a bit and handed it back to me.
"Now try 'er"
Lo and behold, I put the bit to steel and big long curly shavings started coming out of the hole and we were through in a few seconds.
I decided right then and there that Ol' Lewis wasn't a bad guy to have around.
On another occasion, my two uncles were trying to get a hole through a shaft that belonged in a 1200 David Brown Tractor.
I don't know why in the world they thought they needed a new hole that David Brown didn't put there from the factory.
They drilled for days.
They spent a fortune on bits.
They hadn't yet even made a shiny place.
In desperation, they took it to Jack Holt.
He led them through the spider webs and darkness to a drawer under a bench.
He scratched and dug around in the drawer until he came out with an old rusty bit.
"That should do"
He took the bit to the grinder and eye-ball sharpened it while my uncles were thinking "we're wasting our time"; the only light he had to work by was the sparks coming off the grind-stone.
He clamped the shaft in the vise of an old hand-cranked post-drill, started cranking, and the shavings started curling out of the hole.
From that day forward, you did not mention drill bits in front of either of them unless you wanted to hear the story again.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 9:33am |
jaybmiller wrote:
yeah doesn't have to be special 'tap' oil...ANY oil helps cool the keen edge sharp and pull away the cuttings.Something, anything is better than nothing. agree you MUST have SHARP bits and never use old bed rails as 'project steel' ! dang things are heat treated and you'll dull 4 bits before figuring THAT out......
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Well Shoot,,,,!! Yeah,Jay and Buckskin,,I knew about them dang bedrails,,,,they are also difficult to weld correctly,,,BUT,,,me coming from poor upbringins,,,,  I tend to keep using them for "projects" around the place,,,What I do is preheat the weld area before striking an arc,,,works for me,,,,,,,
Yes,,,Codger,,,you are correct,,,118° Chit,,"The younger I get, the more I remember",,, Oh well,,,,
I seem to remember from years ago,,that the special good quality Tapping oils have not been intentionally desulferized as the gookines left in the oil are what helps with the lubricity of the drill bits.
Hey Buckskin,,what in the world are you doing drilling holes in a classic 98 Mauser action,,,? I've used them in building wildcatters some years ago,,,,
Edited by desertjoe - 23 Jul 2024 at 9:40am
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 9:40am |
many of my drill bits are 40 years old.. Some are an inch shorter due to sharpening over the years. Always do BY HAND and SIGHT... Got a special little bench grinder with a special wheel setting in the corner just for drill bits and knives... The ones smaller than 3/16 inch are a PITA... the ones bigger than 1/2 inch are easy..
And i buy up every bed frame i see at a garage sale... $3. for 3-4 6 ft pieces of angle iron is a great buy !... YEP hard to cut... use a cut off wheel... hard to drill, but doable.. weld them up for dozens of projects.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 9:41am |
desertjoe wrote:
[QUOTE=jaybmiller] Hey Buckskin,,what in the world are you doing drilling holes in a classic 98 Mauser action,,,?
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For the 6-48 screws to make a place for Redfields and Leupolds to reside.
I've got an Oberndorf 98 here waiting for the same attention.
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desertjoe
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 10:16am |
BuckSkin wrote:
desertjoe wrote:
[QUOTE=jaybmiller] Hey Buckskin,,what in the world are you doing drilling holes in a classic 98 Mauser action,,,?
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For the 6-48 screws to make a place for Redfields and Leupolds to reside.
I've got an Oberndorf 98 here waiting for the same attention. |
UMmmmm,,,Well,,,you are excused,, , Have you ever used the Enfield actions,,?,,,they are also he** for stout. I mostly used the more easily available 98 actions as the Enfields were very scarce but I liked the Heavy Duty LOOK of them Enfields,,,, |
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BuckSkin
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 2:21pm |
desertjoe wrote:
I liked the Heavy Duty LOOK of them Enfields,,,,
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Never had the privilege of owning an American Enfield.
Several years ago, a long-footed old gal whipped in the parking lot and wanted my opinion on the birthday present she had gotten at the local pawn shop for her boyfriend --- a "Deer Rifle".
She opened the back door of that big old deuce-an'-a-quarter; and there, laying on the back seat, was a beautiful .30-06 Enfield, highly figured Walnut, beautiful checkering, and not a scratch anywhere, a good leather strap, beautiful iron sights, and a genuine 4x12 Leupold.
I gave her my seal of approval and could hardly contain my excitement at her having made such a find --- she had no clue.
All she knew was it was about eight weeks of hard-earned sewing factory dollars.
I offered her a hundred more and she thought about it a minute and shook her head.
Her boyfriend probably had no idea just what a desirable find it was.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 2:49pm |
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Dad had a 303 British Enfield. May not be the same? Brother has it now. I have the Mauser. 7.65 I believe? Little brother has the M 1 . Thanks
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desertjoe
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 6:20pm |
Kind a funny story,,,,when I was in my "learner Stage" some years back,,,about reloading and all sorts of wildcatting,,,, I got a line on a couple of choice rifles with the Enfield actions. I drove up to the mountains to buy them from a rancher up there,,,couldn't get there soon enough,,,!! Imagine my surprise when the rancher started to tell me how valuable the rifles were. Both rifles were old and very well used military issue and with the extra heavy military stock. Both were .303 British and had some different actions that did not look too healthy,,,? He told me right off that he would NOT take any less then $300 EACH, or $500 for the pair!! I sure was glad to "HAVE" to turn down such a generous offer, so I left soon as I could,,,,whew,,,!!
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scott
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Posted: 25 Jul 2024 at 8:43am |
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How fast are you spinning the 9/16 drill? Go too fast and you will dull the drill but also work harden the material you are drilling. For something like that I would have the big variable speed D handle widowmaker drill running 200 or so RPM. Excessive RPM is what heats everything up and ruins your cutting edge.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 25 Jul 2024 at 10:17am |
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Guess 1200 rpm ? Never did see any smoke. Did manage to drill out the last hole yesterday so I'm good. Thanks
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