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nanuk 
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Location: Saskatchewan
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 Topic: Online Parts Numbers 7060AC
Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 8:32am |
Hey folks. Thanks for the great knowledge you all put out there. Sad day when folks stop "Fixing" things, and just replace.
that being said, I want to replace all my control cables on my 7060 It is a 1975 with a pre 2000 serial number. Power Director, 2 remotes, 20spd.
When I go to the online AGCO Parts Book, some of the numbers are different that those I have seen recommended on other sites, and forums.
I'm in Canada, and it is going to cost me almost $2000 to get the 7 that I need ( clutch, Park Lock, Range Shift, PTO, and both Remote Control cables.
Most curious is the Park Lock cable is the same as No2 Remote Control Cable.
I just want to be sure I am ordering the correct ones the first time.
Clutch: 70269446 Park Lock: 70269207 Range Shift: 70262452 PTO: 70268588 Remote #1: 70268511 Remote #2: 70269207 Throttle: 70270280
Thanks 'nuk
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Lynn Marshall
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Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 9:33am |
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Bunker Hill cables has a decent description and pictures of those cables.
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nanuk
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 11:35am |
Thanks Lynn, I'm trying to make contact with them about shipping to Canada.
they are one site that numbers don't always match. I think it is the infamous serial number cutoffs.
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 12:06pm |
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Many of those early tractors with the lighter remote cables have been upgraded to the heavy cables. Check the size of those cables and they may even have a part number on them.
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ryan(IN)
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 12:09pm |
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Yes those part numbers all check out. Now that being said, the remote cables might be the later serial number. A lot of the older tractors were updated to he heavier cable. So you need to check which cable you have. There are post about this if you search. I cannot remember the difference off the top of my head at the moment.
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 1:36pm |
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Early remote cables were 3/16. Later ones were 1/4 inch. If your remote cables are the same size as your pto cable, then they are the early, lighter style. It doesn't sound like that much of an improvement, but it was.
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nanuk
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 3:47pm |
my two remote cables are definitely smaller in diameter than my PTO cable.
are all the rest smaller?
are all the new cables with old part numbers the smaller?
I guess I'd need to source ends for bigger cables?
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AC7060Pd 1975
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 14 Jul 2024 at 4:54pm |
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I used BH on my late model 8070. Some of them didn't fit my notches. I think it was the lift ones. I filed the kneck down to fit. Not sure what that was all about. The factory ones had steel ends and BH used aluminum. Not sure I liked that part.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 14 Jul 2024 at 4:56pm
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 15 Jul 2024 at 6:51am |
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Your pto cable shouldn't be larger than the small remote cables. Don't know what that's about? There's a lot more to putting on the heavy remote cables than just the cables and ends.
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nanuk
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Posted: 15 Jul 2024 at 10:17am |
I'll check again, but I remember noticing the PTO cable was a larger diameter than the remotes
regardless, if I order cables that say "replaces ********" they should fit, even if mine aren't original? Unless there has been mods to make different ones fit?
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nanuk
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Posted: 16 Jul 2024 at 9:54pm |
Hey, does anyone know the thread size on the cable ends?
I'm a long ways away from my tractor and the clutch cable end ball/socket is worn and keeps jumping apart.
I can't get to the dealer (an hour the opposite way) for a couple days....
so thought I may be able to source something locally
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AC7060Pd 1975
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 17 Jul 2024 at 12:55pm |
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1/4 inch fine thread.
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nanuk
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Posted: 17 Jul 2024 at 3:01pm |
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Perfect
Thanks!!
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nanuk
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 11:08am |
As I posted in another thread (that I kinda took over... Sorry Simona5) it appears AGCO doesn't care about Canada much....
so, cables, no inventory. no guarantee of finding any. Bushings 70269529, no inventory. no guarantee of finding any. (perhaps one located... I have to call) spacers 70268412 , no inventory. no guarantee of finding any.
So, my question, is there a good place to source AGCO parts in the US, and will they ship to Canada?
I checked BH Cables, and they'll ship (use UPS, but will ship USPS with no delivery guarantee) so I can source cables at a much better price than my local AGCO quoted for the ones made from unobtainium. ($320 each, plus ends, plus shipping, plus 11% taxes)
But for other parts, like bushings/spacers Dr. Allis says I probably need (I'll get them regardless if I can) to get my Transmission Brake working again, I'd like to have a source that ships to Canada, and has good inventory, or ability to source parts for me.
Anyone have any ideas?
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ryan(IN)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 11:25am |
 nanuk wrote:
As I posted in another thread (that I kinda took over... Sorry Simona5) it appears AGCO doesn't care about Canada much....
so, cables, no inventory. no guarantee of finding any. Bushings <span style=": rgb254, 252, 212; color: rgb0, 0, 36;">70269529</span>, no inventory. no guarantee of finding any. (perhaps one located... I have to call) spacers <span style=": rgb255, 255, 255; color: rgb33, 37, 41; font-family: Roboto, sans-serif; font-size: 16px;">70268412</span> , no inventory. no guarantee of finding any.
So, my question, is there a good place to source AGCO parts in the US, and will they ship to Canada?
I checked BH Cables, and they'll ship (use UPS, but will ship USPS with no delivery guarantee) so I can source cables at a much better price than my local AGCO quoted for the ones made from unobtainium. ($320 each, plus ends, plus shipping, plus 11% taxes)
But for other parts, like bushings/spacers Dr. Allis says I probably need (I'll get them regardless if I can) to get my Transmission Brake working again, I'd like to have a source that ships to Canada, and has good inventory, or ability to source parts for me.
Anyone have any ideas? |
Guess I’m confused why your agco dealer can’t get them from Batavia. When I was a dealer I got parts from Regina and Woodstock parts warehouses. Batavia is the largest warehouse in Agcos system.
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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nanuk
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Posted: 22 Jul 2024 at 8:49pm |
I assumed My AGCO dealer's system checks all of Canada
but perhaps only Saskatchewan. She said there was nothing in her system at all.
maybe I could contact other province AGCO's.
Where is Batavia?
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 7:53am |
I've dealt with Brenda at Sandy Lake Implement for many obscure Allis parts and she has always found what I needed and got it to me ASAP. Give her a call: 724 376-2489. If it exists anywhere she can usually find it. I did a head for a neighbors D19 recently and needed all new valves and springs. Brenda found everything. Some valves came from Ontario, some from New York and some from their own stock. Once she had it all together, it was shipped to me.
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nanuk
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Posted: 23 Jul 2024 at 6:45pm |
thanks Alberta Phil, I'll do that
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ryan(IN)
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Posted: 24 Jul 2024 at 5:26am |
nanuk wrote:
I assumed My AGCO dealer's system checks all of Canada
but perhaps only Saskatchewan. She said there was nothing in her system at all.
maybe I could contact other province AGCO's.
Where is Batavia? |
Batavia is agcos warehouse in Chicago. Was actually Allis parts warehouse as well.
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ryan
1984 8070 FWA,1979 7060,1975 7040,1971 190,1960 D-17D,1957 D-14, 196? D-19G, 1975 5040,1971? 160,1994 R62
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nanuk
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Posted: 27 Jul 2024 at 6:22pm |
So, just to follow up
it's been raining on and off, so I had some time to look into my issues
1) PTO cable appears to be the same diameter as the remotes 2) took the lever panel off, and took the floor panel out, took a good look around to try to understand things 3) kicked myself in the arse for not looking into this sooner... it is NOT that difficult 4) worked the Fast/Slow (F/S) lever, and pulled it over into the Park (P) slot 5) noticed the F/S cable moving around. checked the cable where it is secured under the floor, and felt if moving 6) noticed the P cable moving, but felt a bit stiff (could be from years of non-use) 7) traced the F/S issue to the bracket/clamp 8) had an immediate epiphany due to Dr. Allis harping on us to ensure the allen head machine screws are TIGHT.... mine were so loose, the cable "Groove" metal area had slipped under the bracket which allowed the cable to slide through at the pull/push of the lever 9) removed the bolt holding down the bracket that terminates the cables on the top of the shift lever into the transmission, so I could move the cables around 10) removed the bolts holding down the rear bracket that holds the C clamp that retains the cable, so I could lift it up, relocate the cable so the C clamp locks into the groove where it should be, tightened the allen head machine screws Dr. Allis TIGHT!!!! 11) replaced the bolts on that bracket 12) move the F/S lever so the terminal bracket would sit on the shift lever into the transmission 13) replaced the bolt on top that lever 14) tested the operation of the F/S/P... all seemed to work OK 15) replaced the control side panel/floor panel 16) started tractor, tested operation. All worked as should. P a little stiff, but works, and may loosen with use. gonna lube it up a bit also.
everything worked as it should EXCEPT the lever bottoms out in the Fast and Slow slots, but doesn't go into Fast from park. I need to pull it into Slow first, that firmly into Fast
I assume a cable adjustment
I'll need another day to remove the floor again, then observe the position of the shift lever in the transmission. I think I need to lengthen the cable a bit.... but will hold off doing anything until I can get a good look at the operation and take time to think about it.
Looks like I don't need to replace any cables yet, but if I have a good year, I may just order in some.
Also, I'm thinking of using a garden hose/sprayer or pressure washer to clean under the floor... it is very built up with dirt and I now have access to the wiring that was burned awhile back. My fuel gauge doesn't work now.... I assume a bad wire.
I need to research the sender/wire issue. could it be as simple is routing a 14ga wire from sender to the back of the gauge, and confirming secure ground?
Next, I need to work on the Transmission Brake/Bushing issue
THANK YOU everyone for responding and offering information/opinions
Trust me, I value ALL the input.
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 28 Jul 2024 at 2:56pm |
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If you look at the slots in the gate where the range shift lever moves,it moves in an inverted h pattern. It has to move in that same manner under the floor. When you shift out of park,the small cable should allow the shifting lever,under the floor,to slide over to the right hand side so that the big cable can move forwards and backwards and go into high or low range. With the floor out, you can use your foot and nudge it over and you'll see it move and now will go into high range without first going into low range. Adding a small spring to help pull the cable over to the right side,when in the neutral slot will help.
Edited by Lynn Marshall - 28 Jul 2024 at 2:57pm
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nanuk
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Posted: 28 Jul 2024 at 3:42pm |
Thanks Lynn, I'll look into that
what appears to be happening, is my tranny brake is not functioning, so when I shift into a gear on the floor, then move into FAST, I hear it grinding/buzzing like it is not engaging
So I pull it into neutral on the floor, and shift again into FAST, then select a gear, and I don't move, like it is still in neutral.
pull into SLOW (I think I can do that either in gear or out) then firmly move to FAST, it can hear it engage the gears internally with a clu-chunk kind of sound
I think (I didn't take notes, so going by memory) my issue is the cable length, AND the tranny brake.
so for now, I can get to FAST by first selecting neutral, pull out of PARK, into SLOW, then FAST.
It'll be nice to be able to use my SLOW gears while baling in the coming days.
Thanks for all the help.
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nanuk
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Posted: 03 Aug 2024 at 10:02am |
So, I've had more time to play with this
my cable issues are corrected.
my issues with getting into Fast/Slow now appear to have nothing to do with cable control, BUT the lack of Transmission brake.
if I pull it out of gear on the floor, with clutch disengaged, and slow the RPM right down, it drops into F/S just fine
this leads me to believe it is an issue with the transmission still turning.
once I get the bushings issue settled on the clutch valve on the Transmission, I should have it back near factory operations.
I would like to thank everyone who threw me some ideas. they all helped me narrow down my issues. When I eliminate the other issues, my trouble shooting gets better.
Edited by nanuk - 03 Aug 2024 at 11:16am
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