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My Old beater Ford SD

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DMiller View Drop Down
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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    Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 10:06am
Have initiated the attack on the big iron pile.  Rusting away bed is ready to come off, fuel filler, tail lights and previously loosed floor bolts is all attaching today.

Made a list of Immediate to buy components, Engine, Drive Train, Braking and Body work will come to around $7,000, Paint will be FAR less than the Big Wagon where estimate is around $1000, will invest in a Fresh roll of MIG Wire for panels installs.

As get all this complete will be installing a SRW Flatbed, already started a Purple Wave bid process on a Local City take off, will also need considerable reman so bid LOW.  Can buy a New one, are under $3500 at another local shop at Swiss MO if previous fails, just have to add what I see as necessities on that as can.

Short list is Bed disposal, cab removal, clean and repaint frame.  Next up with cab off, Turbocharger replacement kit and Valve cover harness with Glow plugs change, final brake tube behind fuel tank replace, all P/S hoses swap, AC hoses, condenser, compressor and clutch replace, P/S Pump and Fluid change.  Air Intake boots replace, with as can inspect found as failed repairs.  New Shocks, replace ALL Wheels as are corrupted and seeping thru aluminum, spare rotted under truck and still has OEM 1999 Firestone on it.  E Brake cables and any other repairs there.  New body cushions, a replacement St Column Rag Joint. Full inner rocker panels with outers, cab rear corners, all Four Doors and both front fenders, rear door latch mechanisms, headlamp housings, rear third brake lamp replace, rear glass replace slider with solid.  Some Body Work beyond above, replace floor carpet with rubber, DEEP Clean Interior, headliner reline and console recover(Local does this), repaint cab and all hardware all one color.

Have to laugh, Nephew that was just a BOY when bought this wants it as I get done in use of it after the reman.  Was first truck he was allowed to drive on his Dad's place we initially bought my 180 for.  He is 38 this year.

Have to add, resealed front axle this last year, one has returned to leaking so back into that.  Has New ball joints, 90% all disc brakes, all remaining brake tubes are changed and new flex hoses frame to axles two years ago.  New tires two years ago.  Really wanted a NEWER truck, but for $10gr can I really afford to go buy a different project at $35-40gr?


Edited by DMiller - 28 Dec 2023 at 10:09am
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 10:16am
My ol Beater

ALL four doors are rotted from Inside, Bed to Frame supports are nearly completely rusted away, frame so far is showing solid.  R F Fender has a Tree Gnarl at front and both rusted at cab lower corner, rockers are SAD.  Upper Rear Door latches gave up last year., tail gate fell away from rust last year, was hanging on cables when caught it.

Been as good a machine as could have asked for.  7.3 is a boat anchor, is a hog in soft ground as front buries rapidly, but is worth the trouble.


Edited by DMiller - 28 Jan 2024 at 4:39pm
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tadams(OH) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tadams(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 2:05pm
Looks a deceeiving, LMC truck is where I got my body parts from when I redone my 1975
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 3:46pm


Closest around here is Mill Supply. Relative same pricing and delivers to local body shops, NO Frt Charges!!
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 2023 at 4:32pm
Son just finished overhaul of is 2010 CrewCab F250 a couple months back.. I know he had the same problem with cross ribs rotting out under the bed.. He bought a "rust free bed" somewhere in Missouri that imports them from the SOUTH where there is no salt......... seems like it was in the $3000. range.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 2023 at 9:31am
Have given up on a Pickup bed for now, as was explained by Body shop, not even the SW US truck beds are "Rust Free" just cannot see it as is Inside those tin shells the bed supports from.  NO paint or Primer in those regardless what is shown as to Dipping on Advertisements.  Avg life expectancy 5-7 years from date of Mfr.   This one is old enough a Flat bed will do just fine, also adds rear ballast it needed since day one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2024 at 6:39pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 2024 at 7:51pm
I put a flatdeck on my F100..30 ? years ago, bought a Lincoln AC-225-S welder some 7018AC rods ,it actually worked out very well.
Now IF I'd KNOWN I'd still have my current '97 F150, I'd have oiled the snot out of it EVERY year since '99 when I bought it. Sigh..... NOTHING left of the front bed rails, rad support is 'MIA',left rocker 'MIA', drivers door  lower 'sill', hmmm...'MIA'.dang SALT....woulda,shoulda,coulda, sigh.....
Truck only has 88,000 miles on it ,starts ,runs, stops and I spent 10 hours replacing the plastic sugar cube that makes PRNDL show what gear the tranny is in WORK again....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 5:37am
Thanks steve, will look into that one along with a few others looked at if miss the one here in town. It is just at $700 currently on my last bid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 7:01am
While you have the cab off, save your self trouble and replace the factory up pipes (manifold to turbo) with a bellowed set. The originals are solid and do not expand and contract properly causing leaks. They are a BEAR to change with the cab on. So it makes sense to do them with it off. Another thing to do at this point is HPOP lines and o rings.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sho-man1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 7:37am
Second that mention of replacing the up pipes with bellowed ones while the cab is off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 7:43am
You are money ahead to change those pipes with the cab removed if planning to keep the truck. HiPop definitely service while the cab is off will save you grief.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 8:11am
Turbocharger replacement 'Kit' is priced with all that Included.  Up Pipes(Also Up Sized), air discharge boots for Air Charge Cooler piping etc.  Will also receive Valve Cover gasket/harness assemblies with replacement Glow Plugs.

Currents:




Spare was SO degraded was making hands Black as touched it, is Dismounted where wheel is also scrap, sidewalls were splitting as dismounted!  Was from first set of Replacement Tires I put on the truck, as came with Street Treads on it new.  Date Code from 2000 as installed 2001.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 8:18am
Basic Steel Wheels are on the way along with a Matching Herc Tire to what is on the ground, Bumper at rear is already Off.

Under the Bed


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 8:27am
What aggravated me most as got this far was seeing back of cab and front of bed little to no paint,  Were painted together as well the underside of Hood was Painted just base Red not the metallic as was bought.  Had always wondered why so, just lack of concern by Ford as No Care on Quality is Job One no longer exists.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 8:38am
Dave... the COULD have done a better job... But you got to remember that its 25 years old !!  Has served you well for that time..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 9:16am
Yes it Has!!  other than Rust Rot been great.

Now to get another 3-5 years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 2024 at 10:42am
That was a very common practice. Less color and I've seen a tinted undercoat to lessen the needs of a thicker topcoat many times. Red tint under burgundy is very common. Underside of the bed is not painted for the same reason. Underside of the hood panel and radiator support etc. are a dull red color; not topcoat color. All to save money on the production line. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan 2024 at 6:39am
Used bed in town is now closing in on my max bid. Knowing steel is high will not bid more if it crosses that mark.

Will find what need to go on it and make mods to make it work for my purposes.
Spoke with the HVAC owner as he made the svc call, he just bought a replacement Ton crew SRW, discounted to $76k as was a Least desirable on dealer lot, more commercial grade. His son bought a four year old Ton crew shortbed SRW, gas engine Ford, paid $49,500 with 67,000 miles. I feel better of this project now.

Edited by DMiller - 05 Jan 2024 at 6:51am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 10:11am
Current state, down to a few items to disconnect then go to cab mount bolts.





Will be dropping tank today or tomorrow to replace brake tubing behind it and to ready that section of frame for rust encapsulation paint.


Edited by DMiller - 08 Jan 2024 at 10:11am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 10:55am
Snap any torx bits removing the bed bolts? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 2024 at 12:46pm
I have tried to wire brush / clean and repaint the frame of a truck a few times.. Paint always started to rust thru in a couple years ... Several years ago i read an article about a DESALT process... They said it dont matter how many times you WASH the bottom of your truck with pressure washer and soap, there is ALWAYS a salt film left over imbedded into the steel frame. That starts the process of rusting again...... DOT in Wisc ( i think) was experimenting with a process to NEUTRALIZE the salt, after washing the frame with pressure washer... Conclusion was that if you do this, the PAINT will stick much better and LONG TERM the frame will hold up better... I have been using this for about 10 years when i do  touchup / paint repairs on the frames... ANYTHING that travels on the highway, has salt IMBEDDED into the steel  that needs cleaned prior to paint............. just a suggestion..


Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 4:24am
The product I have received is a Encapsulator body men use. Has a rust converter in the base that shuts down the process. Has to be oversprayed with a paint product but is noted to neutralize the process of corrosion. Just have to have the large chunky stuff off the surface.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 6:58am
I have used both Eastwood and POR-15 Rust Encapsulator with good results. I also like Rustoleum's Rust Converter in aerosol cans.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 8:21am
I used "Chassis Saver" products a lot of years in the shops and it works well but has a very limited shelf life once opened, and must be painted over. Phosphoric acid based product yielding good coverage per gallon sprayed easily with conventional hand spray guns.

Abrasive media blasting is always best as a clean substrate is beneficial to start with and will reveal weak spots commonly overlooked.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 1:07pm
Thanks all, sticking to scrape, brush and blow away then to paint once eastwood material gets here. Truck is soon to be 25, know is on borrowed days where only needs to get another three to five and I will start backing down on activities.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 6:27pm
A needle scaler does a good prep job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 2024 at 7:00pm
Dave... i use the RUST CONVERTER also.... AFTER i needle gun the frame, then pressure wash, then DESALT wash, then rinse.... then CONVERTER.... Let dry and then paint.. I normally just  use a Brush Rustoleum and i am doing touchup, no bed/ tank / power train removal.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jan 2024 at 3:53pm
Spoke to a Eastwood rep this afternoon.  He noted I picked the better choice for where I am going.  Remove any and all loose scale, wash down with a oil/grease remover then paint as can.  Base Product, not the Plus or Platinum is the best choice here for working a Moving Target.  Has a Neutralizer in the Base, for Salts or Chemical agent corrosive, is also UV Resistant the other two do not even as a bigger premium price.  Does NOT require a Top Coat of anything else and should last the remaining life of the machine.  Can be used as a Prep Primer or a Final Cover so works well for me.  Loose scale is already gone at rear, any residual brake fluid or diff oil has been removed.  Will go back over the entire chassis once cab goes up and finish out on forward rails.  Product can be Brush, Roller or Spray applied, got a full gallon.

After got up this morning hauled the tires to the tire shop for rim swaps, have the spare to balance and the OLD spare Tire to discard.  Went by Sale Yard for the truck bed, install requires Four Points of mounting for the Goose Ball to qualify.  Will be reusing the Reese Hitch angle irons to frame, with Angle Irons bolted to them to weld on the new bed.  Fore and Aft hangers are strictly for bed stability and will be as rep stated reasonable but minimal.  Weld to New Bed rails, Bolt with at least a 1/2" Gr 8 Fastener to Frame is all that is called for at those two points.


Edited by DMiller - 11 Jan 2024 at 3:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jan 2024 at 9:11am
Deeper inspections costing me more, think gonna have to work on this with Eyes Closed.

Started removing rear brakes and hubs for P-Brake repairs, pads went to self destruct mode, rotors appear shot, pistons froze SOLID in calipers and as expected Hub Seals leaking.  TOUCHED Dust Shield, collapsed into piles of rust dust.  OH ME OH MY!!  $$$$ Keep Flashing!!


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