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slimbo3006 
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Joined: 20 Apr 2024
Location: Virginia
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 Topic: AC 7000 control levers
Posted: 20 Apr 2024 at 6:07pm |
OK, this is probably a pretty simple one and I feel silly asking it but....
I am looking at buying an old AC-7000 that has been sitting for a while. hopefully pretty cheap as a project tractor. I went and looked it over today. I am not too familiar with these tractors so I was not sure what all of the control levers operated. Some are obviously transmission and I believe the back one is the PTO. but I am unsure of the rest. most are either stuck or stiff so I did not want to go pulling/pushing very hard without knowing what each one did. I will include a picture of the lever controls. it is not like the pictures of other 7000's that I have been able to find online.
The tractor does have 2 remote hydraulics as well.
Thanks for any help on this.
Edited by slimbo3006 - 20 Apr 2024 at 6:08pm
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Lynn Marshall
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Dana, Iowa
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 10:06am |
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#1 is the gear shift lever for forward and reverse,plus park. #2 is the three speed power shift lever. #3 & #4 are the remote outlets levers. #5 is the three point lift lever. #6 is the traction booster lever. #7 is for position control of the three point. #8 is the PTO lever.
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slimbo3006
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 12:30pm |
Thanks. that is exactly what I was looking for. I was pretty close on most of them, just wasn't sure about the 3-point and remote ones really. had a good idea which one was traction boost and I figured the back 2 were PTO-related. Just wasn't sure which was which.
Anything else noteworthy worth looking at on one of these?
The numbers on the hour meter are sun faded..but I believe it is 1,8XX hours. but not totally sure.
I thought I got a picture of the serial #...but guess I did not. I remember the engine tag said 649T for model # so I believe that puts it as a 1978/1979 Black belly... (although it is hard to tell color)
if it was a pre-1978 maroon belly, it should have had the gear shifter in the floor correct??
Just a quick looks over, didn't see anything major. Clutch felt kinda soft but engine wasn't running so..kinda hard to tell. It has been sitting a while and there is no obvious puddle under it where anything has been leaking like crazy.
Anyhow, batteries are dead and key is missing so can't attempt to start
or turn over right now. Owner is out of state for a couple of weeks. I
will meet up with him when he gets back and will look at it better and
hopefully get more information.
Edited by slimbo3006 - 21 Apr 2024 at 12:31pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 2:41pm |
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The transmission shift lever is missing a valuable part. There should be a plastic piece under the handle down near the bottom of the shaft. It has two arrows painted on it to point towards 1-2-3-4-R or Park. With the lever in the middle of the stroke the tee handle can be twisted CW or CCW to gain access to whatever gear selection you want. Right now pushing the lever forward gets you 3rd gear and pulling it to the rear gets 4th gear.
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slimbo3006
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 2:56pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
The transmission shift lever is missing a valuable part. There should be a plastic piece under the handle down near the bottom of the shaft. It has two arrows painted on it to point towards 1-2-3-4-R or Park. |
Yea I found a video last night that demonstrated this. The plastic piece is solely cosmetic/informative isn't it?? it does not enable/disable it from twisting does it??
That being said, I did try to twist the handle and it is stuck. albeit, I did not try very hard...
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 2:57pm |
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That's a late black belly, above serial number 8553. It has the gear shifter on the side console,, whereas the maroon tractors had a floor shifter. It also has the oval muffler, which only the latest tractors had. The clutch pedal feels soft because all it's doing is moving a spool in a valve body, unlike the maroon tractors that had an actual dry clutch with pressure plate. The early tractors could start a load in any of the three power shift positions. The black belly was designed to always return the lever back to the lowest speed, of the power shift, when the clutch pedal was depressed. All of those tractors have a transmission brake that is applied during the last couple of inches of pedal movement. The pedal does push a little harder at the end of its stroke. Be sure that reverse operates correctly, with no noise.
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Ben (MI)
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 8:09pm |
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You mentioned that the key is missing. I think Allis used the same key for many of the number series tractors if not all including the tractors I have owned, 180, 185, red 7000, black 7000 and 7060. There are some of the keys listed on Fleabay.
I really like that canopy on your 7000, I haven't seen many with canopies. The 7000s I owned were good, reliable tractors on my small grain farm. Both of mine were sold to an Allis guy nearby, however there's not many of us in this area. They have been rotting outside since he bought them as I upgraded, I see someone hauled them off this spring.
Best of luck with your project, lots of great help on this board.
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Part time farming with a 1980 7060 and 1984 F3 hydro.
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Mikez
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Posted: 21 Apr 2024 at 10:13pm |
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Ya the key should be that short indek key
Edited by Mikez - 22 Apr 2024 at 8:23am
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 8:03am |
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Indak key. A pocket screwdriver can be used in a pinch.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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55allis
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 8:17am |
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Most garden tractors have them…
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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DSeries4
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 3:12pm |
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That poor tractor. I would not believe those 1800 hours at all. With the outside looking that way, I wonder how things look on the inside.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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55allis
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 3:20pm |
DSeries4 wrote:
That poor tractor. I would not believe those 1800 hours at all. With the outside looking that way, I wonder how things look on the inside.
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Still possible… The tires look like the originals…
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 3:46pm |
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That poor tractor looks worse than many old WC's/WD's that have been sitting in the weeds. Surely there is SOMETHING wrong with it, that it got left there to slowly rot away.
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slimbo3006
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 4:15pm |
DrAllis wrote:
That poor tractor looks worse than many old WC's/WD's that have been sitting in the weeds. Surely there is SOMETHING wrong with it, that it got left there to slowly rot away. |
I kinda know the guy who owns it and the property and I tend to believe his story...
Anyhow he said that they got the tractor when they were building all of the roads that are on this property (several miles of dirt/gravel rds) He said they used that tractor to drag the roads. once they were done, they just parked it there and that's it... the cable and drag is still sitting right behind it. There is also an old deutz 3 cylinder that they used as well.
These guys are foresters..so they dont need it for farm work.
I believe they built the roads on this place around 2010-ish...so it has probably been there since then.
I looked it over a little bit better and other than the paint job, it doesn't look too bad mechanically. frayed/rusted hydro lines here and there....steering ball joints worn...stiff/frozen cables.....normal old equipment problems.
I couldn't quiet get the key to turn over with what I had available, but I did bypass it and went straight to the starter/solenoid and verified that it is not locked up. actually turned over pretty easily for no more juice than I was supplying it.
The fuel plunger seems to be stuck... didnt try too hard to get if free though. Also got all of the control levers free except for traction boost and the T-handle twist. They both try to move so maybe I can take them apart and lube them and get them free up...if not, just new cables.
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Lynn Marshall
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Posted: 22 Apr 2024 at 9:47pm |
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Try to get it running first and then worry about some of the other things later. Fuel knob has to be pulled out to turn the fuel on. If it won't run,or run right, you have a potential money pit.
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victoryallis
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Posted: 24 Apr 2024 at 9:01pm |
That Tee handle sitting out in the elements all these years would make me cringe. I seriously doubt the hours as well.
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8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760
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