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wjohn 
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 Topic: Gleaner CII/C2
Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 12:01am |
First, thanks to the forum for putting up with my random Gleaner questions over the last year or two. AC7060IL - special thanks to you and your knowledge of Gleaners in general.
I lucked into a CII that is only about 10 miles from my house. 16' header with no special equipment (just straight bats) and some rust/rock holes in the bottom/floor that I will have to tackle. It has been inside and was supposedly last used 5 years ago. Other than the fans being packed with rat nest, everything seems to move. I did get it to run for 15-20 seconds but only with the choke on, so I pulled the carb off and am cleaning it up. It was converted to a Carter electric fuel pump at some point but after repairing rat-chewed wires and getting good 12V to it, turns out that pump is toast.
The cooling system took about 1.5 gallons and later on I discovered a pinhole leak in the radiator just below the top hose connection. The gearbox for the steering shaft at the bottom of the cab seems to be empty. Otherwise the tires all took air and you can steer it with no engine power fairly well. Trans and finals were all full up to the check plugs. I changed engine and air cleaner oil. Still need to hit all of the grease zerks, reinstall the carb, and wait for the new fuel pump to show up.
Anything specific on these that I should for sure check before I try to road it 10 miles home? I have done nothing as far as the separating mechanism is concerned - I don't plan on touching that until I have time to clean it out and change some sprockets, chains, and belts. I'll leave it shut off for now.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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DrAllis
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 7:50am |
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Condition of the main drive engine belt and the variable speed transmission input belt.
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jiminnd
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 9:34am |
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My opinion, one of the best combines they made. Don't know what all you need but they are a good machine.
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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wjohn
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 2:07pm |
 DrAllis wrote:
Condition of the main drive engine belt and the variable speed transmission input belt. |
Will do. I got a bunch of spare belts, but I think the only wider belts I got were all the same PN and those were for the pivot drive.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 2:13pm |
jiminnd wrote:
My opinion, one of the best combines they made. Don't know what all you need but they are a good machine. |
I only have ~20 acres in tillable right now, but there's another 60 or so that used to be tillable decades ago but is now pasture. I may convert some of that back to tillable at some point. A CII is bigger than I need but storage wise, they're basically the same height as an A, F, or K. I'm looking at wheat, soybeans, oats, and milo.
You had one? What all did you harvest with yours?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 5:38pm |
Wjohn, Thank you for your kind words. Congratulations on your newly acquired gleaner C2. Awesome find! A 10 mile combine drive is very doable. Maybe inspect it’s fuel tank for gunk. If tank has ANY gunky residue, remove its fuel line & discard it. Attach a new fuel line to engine fuel pump & use a portable 5 gal plastic fuel tank instead. Just tarp strap 5 gal tank to a secure position. Maybe add two cups of ATF to 5 gal of 10% ethanol 87 octane gasoline. That combination will operate fine & help clean carb/intake/piston rings as you drive it the 10 miles. You can clean gunky fuel tank later, but probably eliminate any possible roading fuel issues. Shoups Ag Parts sells a 20’x48”roll of 3/32 thick poly sheeting for $132. It’s flexibility allows it to be riveted or bolted onto worn metal areas as a somewhat durable material for patching irregular shaped items like header floor, clean grain auger troughs, raddle floor, grain tank auger floor, etc. https://www.shoupparts.com/29020-White-Poly-RollWhen time allows, please update your progress & post some photos of your C2.
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SteveMaskey(MO)
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 7:14pm |
 I still have one in the barn quit using
it when I bought the L3. They are a good combine and you have been given some
good advice. As the Dr says check the variable speed and engine belts. I had
the variable speed belt come apart on the road and it is not a good feeling
when you coast to the side of the road.
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jiminnd
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 9:17pm |
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Got mine used, ran it for 7 years, wheat, oats, barley, millet, soybeans, and sunflower, was a good machine but was on the custom run before I got it so was really showing a lot of wear. Had to rebuild the rock door and a couple of auger screws. Also replaced the tin between the raddle chain, never touched the motor.
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1945 C, 1949 WF and WD, 1981 185, 1982 8030, unknown D14(nonrunner)
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 31 Mar 2024 at 11:04pm |
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Might jack up rear wheels and spin them. If they're really noisy you may want to at least pack some grease in then to get home. Would not be good to ruin a wheel bearing and maybe hub on the way. Wheel brgs and pivot shafts seem to get neglected. Pack them before you ruin them....easier and cheaper.
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Oldoug
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Posted: 01 Apr 2024 at 10:43am |
Might want to check your brake quick also...make sure they are clean and dry and the linkages are all free...I think I have a NOS engine belt if you are interested.
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Matt Folkers
FOLKERS RESTORATION
Restoring vintage things to last so the future can enjoy our past.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 01 Apr 2024 at 2:31pm |
Crud in the gas tank might be the big problem with the engine not being able to stay running - not the electric pump. Over the years, my dad had an A, K and F. All of them had issues with crud in the fuel tank.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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only AC orange
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Posted: 02 Apr 2024 at 12:05pm |
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Check the main drive belt real close! If combine has sat awhile, belt will be dry rotted and when put under load going down road, will SLIP! I found out by experience driving a "C" home from auction years ago.
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wjohn
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Posted: 02 Apr 2024 at 9:52pm |
All good thoughts. I will bring a jack to check the rear wheel bearings, and I definitely don't want a belt breaking when I'm halfway up a hill.
Regarding the gas tank - it appears to be rusty probably up under the top side of the tank. The sides and bottom look okay, at least from what I can see through the filler hole. That support/baffle is going to make it fun to clean out, and I assume there's another one on the other side of the outlet between it and the other end of the tank.
When I got the engine started I failed to mention I was gravity feeding the carb with a short hose from a garden tractor gas tank. The carb is all cleaned up and half back together now (waiting on some gasket sheeting to show up).
I also picked up a 6 gallon boat gas tank today, with the primer bulb fuel line and everything. I think that plus a good working new fuel pump should get me home. If it burns through more than 6 gallons of gas in the ~10 miles, I'll have another 5 gallon container with me as well.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 02 Apr 2024 at 9:57pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
Shoups Ag Parts sells a 20’x48”roll of 3/32 thick poly sheeting for $132. It’s flexibility allows it to be riveted or bolted onto worn metal areas as a somewhat durable material for patching irregular shaped items like header floor, clean grain auger troughs, raddle floor, grain tank auger floor, etc. |
I actually think I lucked into a replacement floor that the guy must have purchased. Found it outside the shed and it sure seems to be the right dimensions. That will not be a quick fix so I may order some of that poly if I get into a time crunch.
I am seriously debating trying to plant some beans or milo for the first time but I have a few pieces of equipment to get fixed first.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 02 Apr 2024 at 11:56pm |
wjohn wrote:
All good thoughts. I will bring a jack to check the rear wheel bearings, and I definitely don't want a belt breaking when I'm halfway up a hill.
Regarding the gas tank - it appears to be rusty probably up under the top side of the tank. The sides and bottom look okay, at least from what I can see through the filler hole. That support/baffle is going to make it fun to clean out, and I assume there's another one on the other side of the outlet between it and the other end of the tank.
When I got the engine started I failed to mention I was gravity feeding the carb with a short hose from a garden tractor gas tank. The carb is all cleaned up and half back together now (waiting on some gasket sheeting to show up).
I also picked up a 6 gallon boat gas tank today, with the primer bulb fuel line and everything. I think that plus a good working new fuel pump should get me home. If it burns through more than 6 gallons of gas in the ~10 miles, I'll have another 5 gallon container with me as well. |
I don’t know the Buda gas engine fuel consumption rates. A 6* BTDC gleaner GM 250 will run approximately 8-9 minutes per quart of 10% ethanol 87 octane. That’s just engine at high idle, machine sitting still, & no separator loads. So a gallon would be 32-36 minutes run time. So if Buda 262 is comparable, at 10 mph travel speed, probably 2-3 gallon may suffice 10 mile road trip (1 hour)if stops/go are minimal?
Edited by AC7060IL - 03 Apr 2024 at 12:04am
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IBWD MIke
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Posted: 03 Apr 2024 at 9:18am |
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wjohn, on the tank rust; I 'tumbled' the tank on my 756 when it was in process. Strapped it to the wheel/tire on the NF 45 and ran it in low gear 45 minutes or an hour, don't remember now. Anyway, wish I had run it three or four times that long! The big part of the tank got nice and clean but, (I think) the part on the other side of the baffle not so much. I have had trouble with the sediment bowl plugging when running it a lot in rough conditions with a mostly full tank. It's getting better with time.
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wjohn
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Posted: 05 Apr 2024 at 10:18am |
I know the D-19 gassers were not as efficient HP per gal as their similar-sized competitors so it may be a tad worse than that Chevy engine, but you're right... should be in the ballpark. If 6 gallons doesn't do it I will still have a backup can and for sure have enough.
Mike, that's what I'm worried about here with the baffles. I think I will just have to clean and flush the tank as best as I can - maybe acid wash? Then just keep changing sediment bowls and filters.
I'm not sure I would feel right just keeping the boat tank on there for eternity and constantly filling it... although for my acreage, that might work - ha.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 05 Apr 2024 at 10:39am |
I checked over the main drive belt from the engine and the traction/trans belts. There is no obvious damage or cracking so I will hope I can make it up the couple of hills I have to climb without any issues. The only play I could find at the rear wheels was a little bit in the spindles (not hub bearings), plus some play in the tie rod ends of the steering linkages. It's detectable but not scary so I am okay with it. May need to be fixed some years down the road.
I hit as many of the grease zerks for the steering/brakes/engine/trans drive as I could yesterday. The pedal shaft zerks under the cab sure are a bear to access. Filling the steering gearbox also wasn't great but it's full for now. I was unable to find one zerk, though. I think the I got the #20 clutch sleeve bearing assuming that's the one that's on the cast housing going from the pulley on into the transmission, and I know I got #19 on the end of the sheave hub. I don't think I found the #21 clutch operating shaft fitting so I need to maybe crawl under there with a flashlight. That might be on the linkage from the clutch pedal, closer to the clutch?
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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wjohn
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Posted: 18 May 2024 at 10:40pm |
It made the drive home today. The radiator leaked slowly enough and the temp gauge works so I was comfortable with the cooling situation and it worked out. I couldn't get the variable speed lever for the ground drive to move and the guy who was in a truck in front of me said I was only doing about 6 MPH, in 3rd gear, so it must be stuck in the slow position. Sure felt a lot faster than that as I was bouncing down the road.
The power steering started working after about 1/2 mile which was nice. I think one of the brakes may be dragging a little as there was some slight lurching and rhythmic whining. It seemed to go away on downhills, though.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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AC7060IL
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Posted: 19 May 2024 at 11:26am |
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wJohn, congratulations on a successful drive home. Machine looks great. Thanks for sharing a photo of it.
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wjohn
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Posted: 20 May 2024 at 11:08pm |
AC7060IL wrote:
wJohn, congratulations on a successful drive home. Machine looks great. Thanks for sharing a photo of it. |
Thanks. I think your fuel usage estimate must be pretty close. I used about 4 gallons on the drive home, and I should've been going twice the distance in that time if the variable speed would've worked.
Now to save up for a shed to put all of this stuff in.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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ac fleet
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Posted: 22 May 2024 at 10:51am |
I had one many years ago --- good old machine but did love to eat main drive belt!!!!!!!!!! I loved the power steering on mine --- steer with your pinkie! Mine was 4-38 corn and 16' cutter head. Just stay out of foxtail with them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT will have you in orbit! If you see 1 foxtail plant ahead of you in the field,--- stop and go pull it up and toss it aside cause it will NOT go past the rear cylinder beater! I guess it was a gleaner thing. Anyway I ended up getting a 715 diesel to replace it with. ( went to 30" rows and no head for c.) The gas motor on mine started instantly as soon as you hit the key. I always loved that part. You might want to run it around the lot quite a bit before you hit the road with it and see if all feels good or not. I think you will have a lot of carb problems on your way home with it. That was always the problem with mine. I would drive it 50 miles 1 way between jobs and was always cleaning the carb along the road. No big deal but kinda a danger in traffic.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 22 May 2024 at 11:52am |
ac fleet wrote:
I had one many years ago --- good old machine but did love to eat main drive belt!!!!!!!!!! I loved the power steering on mine --- steer with your pinkie! Mine was 4-38 corn and 16' cutter head. Just stay out of foxtail with them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT will have you in orbit! If you see 1 foxtail plant ahead of you in the field,--- stop and go pull it up and toss it aside cause it will NOT go past the rear cylinder beater! I guess it was a gleaner thing. Anyway I ended up getting a 715 diesel to replace it with. ( went to 30" rows and no head for c.)The gas motor on mine started instantly as soon as you hit the key. I always loved that part. You might want to run it around the lot quite a bit before you hit the road with it and see if all feels good or not. I think you will have a lot of carb problems on your way home with it. That was always the problem with mine. I would drive it 50 miles 1 way between jobs and was always cleaning the carb along the road. No big deal but kinda a danger in traffic. |
Man, that brings back memories. My uncle was between combines at the time so had a friend of his bring over his CII. There was a patch of foxtail LaVerne got in to and yes that plugged up solid. I think it plugged 3 times. LaVerne was livid by the time they got done. Not sure if even finished that spot. Never came back.
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wjohn
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Posted: 22 May 2024 at 9:52pm |
acfleet, I totally tore down and cleaned out the carb and it made the trip home just fine. This engine does not start right away - I never did change the plugs or wires, so I need to do that, but I'm also not sure it's getting enough fuel when you try to start. The carb doesn't dump gas out when you pull off the air cleaner hose after cranking, so it's not flooding... But it's a little persnickety about starting. Maybe it's a little worn and compression is low, too. Once started it runs well.
plummerscarin, thanks for the story! We don't seem to have foxtail too bad here - Johnsongrass and cheat are the main problems, but point taken. I'm sure at some point I will push the limits and find out what it takes to plug it, ha.
I did engage the separating side of things yesterday and augered out a bunch of chaff, baby rats, and nesting material. Got one of the adult rats but there is still at least one more and it's a big one. The raddle for sure was not moving so I have been chipping away at pulling out all the rat junk they packed into it.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Clay
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Posted: 22 May 2024 at 10:15pm |
Make absolutely sure the fan bearings are good and the fan drive chains are properly adjusted. My dad and I were doing some in the field maintenance (many years ago). We went to lunch. Forgot to tighten some chains. Next thing we knew, the fan housing was full of wheat. Broke the spiders and fan blades. The nice thing was my dad knew it was his fault and did not yell at me.
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GM Guy
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Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 2:16am |
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squirt the sealed bearings with a teflon infused penetrating oil. If the bearings are not shot, dont replace them. most bearings on these old girls are not under heavy load and can last forever if kept clean and lubed. modern replacements are usually not as good of quality.
Make sure and remove the cleanout covers if storing outside, and blow EVERYTHING off, any crop residue holds moisture and rots things quickly.
Where in KS are you?
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Clay
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Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 10:45am |
GM Guy wrote:
squirt the sealed bearings with a teflon infused penetrating oil. If the bearings are not shot, dont replace them. most bearings on these old girls are not under heavy load and can last forever if kept clean and lubed. modern replacements are usually not as good of quality.
Make sure and remove the cleanout covers if storing outside, and blow EVERYTHING off, any crop residue holds moisture and rots things quickly.
Where in KS are you?
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Near Udall. Northwest of Winfield.
Made a run to Schmidt and Sons in Winfield, this morning. Great dealership. The have the parts and the answers too. Working the bugs out of a F2 for a friend of mine. The variable speed hydraulic seal started pukeing fluid. Getting ready to go to the field and install the new seals. The a/c works great in the F2. My C2 has a water cooler.
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ac fleet
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Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 1:43pm |
Mine would start as soon as you hit the key! Hot or cold. Carb plugged a few times but no biggie. I found they needed to be choked just the right amount of time then go to half choke and after a few seconds of warmup they ready to go. Mine didnt have many acres ever run thru it before I got it from the looks of it. Any I sold it to a friend who used for many years after that and he too liked it. Just stay out of the foxtail!!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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tomNE
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Posted: 22 Jun 2024 at 10:39pm |
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not good in soybeans. Can custom hire someone with a draper header and get beans combined for 0$$$$ compared to cutting them with a C2!
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nickia
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Posted: 23 Jun 2024 at 9:02am |
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the C2 we bought went down the road very fast to top it off it had a 6 row corn head on it. I remember driving it home when i crossed hwy 69 with dad following me he said the rear wheels didnt even touch the ground crossing so if transferring with a corn head watch the speed weight transfer
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