foot platform on 220's

Only early model 220's had that style of platform in 1969 and maybe very early 1970 ?  I don't know how many they made like that. The parts books do not reflect two types. There were no 210's made like that, nor any D-21's or One-Ninety's. I would imagine it was more expensive than regular/common diamond plate. Someone within A-C made the decision to use and then not to use that material, but he or she ain't around anymore to tell us why.

Thanks DR and ED,I hate to say it but right off hand
I know this 220 I'm working on had a cab (I think) and has one
diamond and i wanna say the other ones are smooth,l just don't
remember and haven't been working on it much lately,spending most
my free time with Dad(95) now,so the tractor isn't on the front burner
right now but did get new brakes put on one side this past weekend.

I think some certain brands of cabs had new left/right floor plates.

Edited by DrAllis - 20 Mar 2024 at 9:00am

ED,
I went with the tribco brakes,I'm skeptical
about them and I'll try to explain why.
The actual width of the disc are basically the same.
Now the kevlar pads are thinner than the original,not sure
I like that but it is what it is,tribco brakes were almost
120.00 each compared to 200.00 from agco.
I know we get what we pay for,with that being said this tractor
isn't going to the field,speed limit pulls and maybe a parade or two.
If I was farming with it daily and recieved the tribco brakes I may
have scratched my head and flipped a coin on whether to try them
or get them from agco.
I will try to get some pics of them to explain it better asap.

Here's the brake disc pictures injpump ed.

I'm wanting them for my puller, so don't want them grabby. I emailed tribco, but never got a response. I'll call them when I get to that point. I may end up using the old ones due to being way over budget lmao! So looks like they don't reuse original metal part of the disc, those looked all new. 

Edited by injpumpEd - 24 Mar 2024 at 2:34pm

They look new to me too.
I called when I got mine and the LADY was very nice
and knowledgeable and I got them pretty quickly
after ordering them,I'm working on a couple other things
before I get the other side on.

It looks like the actual width of the disc are the same.
But the disc's are not made the same which you can see in the pictures
but the pads are not the same thickness,the tribco pads
are thinner..

well, I called and ordered 6 Tribco discs. Very nice lady took my order. She did point out the web site has a typo on the part number, says 900-17, but it's actually 901-17 apparently. Looks to me like the kevlar wears so little, they don't need to make it very thick, plus it's probably much more durable having a thin layer, therefore the steel disc needs to be thicker to make up for it. Not to find those thick washers I took out lmao! 

yes

cool, the washers and wire are to be there when plates are new, and thick. The removal of them allows putting the brake assemblies back into adjustment range as the discs wear thinner. I found my washers and wires again, so they will go into the new puller as well. I am certain these will be a much better lining than original. Hoping for smooth, gradual application. I've honed and polished every pivot point for the brake linkage and even drilled and tapped for grease zerks on all but the one going into the brake housing, don't want grease there. I sprayed slip plate dry graphite inside that bushing, and on that pivot shaft as well. Did you remember the part number being different than the web site?

Edited by injpumpEd - 08 May 2024 at 7:40am

I have around 1200 hours on my 210's Kevlar lined brakes with lots of braking since I plant beans with it. I pulled one apart at 1000 hrs due to a bad actuator ball that caused it to stick. pad's showed zero wear.  I did not mic the metal so maybe the metal wearing quicker, but have not had to remove wires or shims 

I never use anything "wet" inside the brake housing. I only use the spray dry graphite coating. Bead blast the actuators, making the ball sockets look like new, sand the other side some to smooth it out and take down ridges. Spray paint the sockets with the graphite, and the new balls. Several coats, turning the balls to cover completely. New springs also helps. I also made sure every pivot shaft moved free as can be. Wire brush the splines where the discs slide, dry graphite them too if you can get in there to paint them, and rotate them to get all the way around.