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rick ky 
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Joined: 02 Oct 2009
Location: georgetown ky
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 Topic: 170 crankshaft pulley
Posted: 04 Nov 2023 at 7:43pm |
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okay its Saturday night and what have we been doing all day trying remove crankshaft pulley. its still on there and we are in for the night. trying heat and penetrating oil have not worked today. maybe not enough heat more tomorrow. what seems to be the best oils to use. pb wouldn't even catch fire. kroil did catch fire. what does the public out there like for penetrating oils? pulley has been on tractor since 1968. will be checking back later thanks.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 04 Nov 2023 at 10:56pm |
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You can use a larger 2 or 3 jaw puller to go around the belt groove area, BUT I must warn you, too much of that and you can break the pulley, so be careful. A better puller would be a "cross-head" type that would attach to 2 of the 4 holes drilled in the front of the pulley using long bolts and heavy flat washers. Lastly, remove the carburetor and alternator and get a 1 inch diameter solid shaft around 12 inches plus long and with a 4 lb hammer get behind the sheave area as close to the crankshaft nose as you can, and strike forcefully driving the pulley assembly FORWARD. You could do this while a puller is under pressure. Setscrew bolt must be REMOVED fully. Penetrating oil a waste of time. Stay away from heat until you fail with these methods.
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rick ky
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Location: georgetown ky
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Posted: 05 Nov 2023 at 6:30am |
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trying to remember what you mentioned going backwards. bolt holes are 3/8 inch not 7/16 inch diameter. have used all pullers, two jaw, three jaw, three jaw porta power. and last but not least, a snapon harmonic balance puller. have a 8 inch bearing puller we will try today, if we can get it behind pulley enough. don't quite understand how to get behind the sheave, there is an engine support. how do you get around it to strike the back of the pulley. thanks again for any input.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Nov 2023 at 6:41am |
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You can't strike it dead-on square. You are at an angle and over the top of the engine mount on the left side. That's why the tool has to be long and carburetor out of the way.
Edited by DrAllis - 05 Nov 2023 at 6:42am
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
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Posted: 05 Nov 2023 at 8:29pm |
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Can you attack it from the back at an angle with a air hammer? Sometimes the vibration will get things moving.
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shamrock
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Posted: 06 Nov 2023 at 12:18pm |
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I might be late to the party but ... My D15 had two set screws, one on top of the other, from the factory. I ruined the pulley with a puller, not knowing ther were two set screws. maybe check that?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 06 Nov 2023 at 12:32pm |
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This D-17/170 pulley isn't like that. One long pointed setscrew that has to be completely removed to allow the pulley to slide off the cranks snout.
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rick ky
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Posted: 08 Nov 2023 at 10:49am |
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some one had been there before us, and put the pulley on like when the steering arm and spindle hits something it isn't supposed to and the damaged key makes it hard to get off. we backed up and took a look at the taper bolt and someone had cut the end off to make it fit. we had a 10 ton wheel puller on it once with no progress. had a 5 ton bearing puller later on sunday morning. broke a pc. off pulley. my brother informs me he has another pulley. I said great, took a cutting wheel and the rest is history. thats when we found the pulley was incorrectly placed on crankshaft to just have it together. learned a lot on that adventure. next project to see how hard pistons and sleeves will be to remove.
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