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Kevin210 
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Joined: 08 Oct 2018
Location: Indiana
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 Topic: turbo charger on 220
Posted: 10 Sep 2023 at 8:47pm |
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Is there a direct bolt on schwitzer turbo
to replace the air research T03 charger on a 220.
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Kevin210
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Joined: 08 Oct 2018
Location: Indiana
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Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 8:22pm |
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I guess not.
What about a garret.
Has to be something else beside an air research that will
bolt on.
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NEVER green
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Joined: 28 Feb 2013
Location: MN.
Points: 7211
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Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 9:45pm |
turbo off 7080 or 8050, 8070 is a better turbo.
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 12 Sep 2023 at 11:20pm |
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Schwitzer 3LM-466 will fit where the 8050/70 turbo fits. Used to be on a ton of farm stock puller tractors many years ago because they worked pretty good and held up to serious over fueling.
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groundhog55
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Location: nw in
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Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 7:19am |
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I have a Ray Jay turbo that has very few hour on it that I will see cheap.
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Unit3
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Joined: 17 Oct 2009
Location: NC Iowa
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Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 7:30am |
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Never Green, in your list, you didn’t have the 8030’s turbo. Is it smaller than the 8050’s?
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2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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DrAllis
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Posted: 13 Sep 2023 at 10:55am |
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8030-50-70---7080-7580-4W220----N5-N6 all the same Air Research TO4-B42.
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Kevin210
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 14 Sep 2023 at 9:15pm |
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I have a schwitzer on it now but had to use rubber hose for oil lines
which works but I would really like to find one that the factory oil
lines would work.
So what turbo does 8050/8070 use...
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DrAllis
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Posted: 14 Sep 2023 at 10:53pm |
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Air Research brand TO4-B42 I think is the exact model. You're not going to find OEM oil lines. All these tractors and combines that used this turbo had the "forward" location exhaust manifold, which places the turbo forward of center and turned around backwards with the compressor housing forward. Any 210-220 has the exhaust manifold centered and the turbo compressor housing pointing to the rear. Oil lines are completely different.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 15 Sep 2023 at 7:47am |
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There is nothing better that directly bolts on a D21/210/220. Now with some fab work an S200 for mild pull/farming works great. All out pulling needs bigger, then you're fabricating other things anyway. The S200 is a small frame turbo so it is easier to fit, but still a challenge on a 210/220 with narrow hood. There may be other similar turbos out there I'm not aware of too. Good luck!
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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DrAllis
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Posted: 15 Sep 2023 at 8:19am |
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Many moons ago, we used to buy (salvage yards) an exhaust part from those Olivers with Waukesha 310 turbo engines. It was cast and raised the turbo up and tilted it in towards the valve cover. I used to drill and thread a couple of holes in it to make it fit the D21-210-220 exhaust manifold mtg pad, but it helped greatly in getting a different/larger turbo under the hood on our 220. I know that 210 is narrower, but height is the same. The newer "forward" exhaust manifold would position the turbo in a wider hood area too.
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Kevin210
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 17 Sep 2023 at 8:48am |
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I do have a schwitzer 466 3lm on my 210 and
did have to do some fab work to tilt it inwards to get inside the hood
and had to fab a cross over intake pipe also.
It works great but I was just hoping that there was a schwitzer
that would bolt on in place of the airresearch turbo.
I brought home a 220 last week that looks like a cab tractor
and started tearing it down yesterday and have noticed some little
things that are different than the 210.
I want to post updates and pictures but for personal reasons we are trying to
keep it under wraps.
I got the hood off and steering wheel and instrument panel and other small
pieces,air filter canister,hydraulic cooler.
Don't know if going to work on it today or not since it's sunday..
Sorry so long winded.
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Kevin210
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 20 Sep 2023 at 8:11pm |
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I'm going to try to get to the point of removing the engine
on the 220 this weekend and was wondering if I can unbolt the frame
rail on one side only and leave the side bolted to the bolster
and take the motor out on one side and everything sit there
with no problem...
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Michael V (NM)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: NM
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Posted: 20 Sep 2023 at 8:33pm |
Kevin, I am studying this idea also,, but I don't think it will work. looks like the engine will not move forward enough to clear the clutch shaft/housing, the bolster for the front end does not allow enough clearance. If this will work,,, I'm all in.... as I need to remove the engine in my 220 also
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ranger43
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Posted: 21 Sep 2023 at 7:36pm |
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correct, probably just as quick to roll out the entire front end assembly. After a couple of 210 overhauls we got pretty quick at it.
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Kevin210
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Posted: 21 Sep 2023 at 8:06pm |
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Hadn't even thought about the clutch,however I don't know
either if this will make any difference or not but this 220
has a 210 bolster on from the factory.
I was told that it is the 200th tractor from the end of production
on the 220 and that's why it has a 210 bolster..
And I do all this by myself with a cherry picker i call it
so that's why I'm looking for an easier way to get the engine out versus
taking the bolster out cause it's no fun sliding that engine
out forward between the frame rails...
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Michael V (NM)
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Posted: 21 Sep 2023 at 9:13pm |
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I'm pretty sure all the front end has to come off to get the engine out,, sorry,, no short cuts here...
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Kevin210
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 24 Sep 2023 at 6:13pm |
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So I got the engine off the 220 this morning and slid it out the front
between the rails,I was afraid to get stuck against the bolster since i am using a cherry picker and between a rock and a hard spot so to speak.
But I also forgot to loosen the balancer bolt,so had to get a new 3/4
inch drive air impact wrench(hehe) to get it loose but will need it for the
wheels wedges also...
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