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Eric[IL] 
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![Quote Eric[IL]](forum_images/quote.png "Quote Eric[IL]") Quote  Reply
 Topic: OT - Best bolt extractors?
Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:14pm |
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Ok I figured I would put this question to the pros on this site cause I am sure someone on here has experienced the very worst bolt extraction. My current situation: My son's VW Jetta has one wheel that has an anti-theft wheel bolt that is reemed out along with it's key. Both the wheel bolt and the key are junk. So, I have drilled the wheel bolt and inserted an Irwin extractor. So far so good. But the problem is what do I use to wrench the sqaure stub of the irwin extractor that is an 11/32" square? I have tried a big vise grips but it slips. I have tried and bent a Craftsman 3/8" wrench. An 11mm impact 6 point deep socket is as close as a fit I can find in my toolbox. And even it will slip on it. This wheel bolt is stubbornly tight. I had to stand on a 15" wheel wrench to loosen the other 4 wheel bolts and I weight 230lbs. Is there a company that makes a better extractor so an impact wrench or 1/2 socket breaker bar can wrench it?
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Pa.Pete
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Joined: 01 Oct 2010
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:26pm |
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You can buy sockets that are square, Sears might have them Snap On would but they would be pricey. I would just weld a nut on the anti theft lug then use a breaker bar and socket.
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Don Smith
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Location: Indiana
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:29pm |
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See if any one around has any 8 Point sockets you could borrow. HTHS
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powertech84
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Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:31pm |
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Any chance one of those twist off sockets with the twisted splines would work? I've had alot of luck taking off rusted manifold bolts with a set like that. As far as what to use to turn the square part of your irwin extractor, obvioulsly a square drive socket would be the best, but most people don't have them in their box. What you could do is take a 3/8 inch drive socket, turn it backwards so where the ratchet goes in is over the tool, then take and allen wrench/socket the same size as the socket and use it to turn it. However all this probly wont matter because your extractor is likely to break anyway if you neet that much torque to bust it loose.
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powertech84
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:34pm |
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Forgot to add, if it were me, i'd drill out the head of the bolt first, so the rim can be removed, then worry about the piece left in the hub. In theory once the bolt isnt clamping anything and isn't streched, it should come out much easier.
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Eric[IL]
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:46pm |
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Thanks guys. I will look for a square socket. I didn't know such items were made. Powertech84, I thought about what you said about drilling off the top of the wheel bolt to remove rim then easyout the remaining bolt stub. The thing is the wheels are aluminum alloy and I don't trust my drilling efforts to not damage the rim. Or, If I stop drilling and leave a small amount of steel bolt flange exposed will that disfigure the aluminum alloy rim in an attempt to pry the rim loose?
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Dave A
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:52pm |
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I like the 1/4 twist type you buy at NAPA or Snap On. they don't expand the bolt as bad as the others. I turn them in while tapping ( not hard) on the extractor
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Play the game for more than you can afford to lose... only then will you learn the game.
Winston Churchill
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rob(ont)
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Location: Kingsville Ont
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 5:57pm |
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Forget the "easy tight" if the broken bolt is not loose. It will only either break off and create more problems, or expand the bolt and make it tighter. I have given up on the easy-outs unless the bolt is loose and cannot be grabbed any other way. Even then, a left hand drill bit will likely screw it out. Weld a large heavy washer to the stud, then weld a big nut to the washer and then remove the bolt. The heating will help loosen the bolt. Remove the valve core and de-air the tire for safety. Rob.
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dadsdozerhd5b
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 6:36pm |
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there are sockets just to remove those type of locking nuts. check napa or a quality auto parts store or snap on. mechanics use them to remove locking wheel nuts when they strip or the owner lost the key. they are relatively inexpensive. i would say the easy out will break with that much torque. good luck.
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Roddo
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:34pm |
 dadsdozerhd5b wrote:
there are sockets just to remove those type of locking nuts. check napa or a quality auto parts store or snap on. mechanics use them to remove locking wheel nuts when they strip or the owner lost the key. they are relatively inexpensive. i would say the easy out will break with that much torque. good luck. |
Yep, we have a set at work. You pound them on real good with a hammer. Then as you go to remove it has spiraled flutes that make it bite into the nut even more and off it comes.
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j.w.freck
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:52pm |
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speaking of 8 point sockets,is there anybody who makes them up in sets?cked with snap on and mac here in east texas and all i got was this deer in the headlights look,as if to say what are you talking about...
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 18 Dec 2010 at 7:53pm |
Here is the proper tool for a tap or extractor. Anything else will only make the tool want to go out of square with the work and help break the tool. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=adjustable+tap+handle&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6291850053993468775&ei=B2MNTZG8Oo2-nAeKqq3tDQ&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDEQ8wIwAg# If that lug is as tight as the others an extractor is a waste of time(really hard to get out after you break it). A washer welded to the lug and then a nut welded to the washer and a breaker bar with a socket to fit the nut and you will have it out. If your worried about the rim, cover it with something nonflammable so just the head of the lug is exposed.
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Eric[IL]
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Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:06pm |
Originally posted by dadsdozerhd5bthere are sockets just to remove those type of locking nuts. check napa or a quality auto parts store or snap on. mechanics use them to remove locking wheel nuts when they strip or the owner lost the key. they are relatively inexpensive. i would say the easy out will break with that much torque. good luck. Originally posted by Roddo - Yep, we have a set at work. You pound them on real good with a hammer. Then as you go to remove it has spiraled flutes that make it bite into the nut even more and off it comes.
I found individual sized tools like the one above at napaonline.com but not a kit containing multiple sizes of them. I will keep looking.
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injpumpEd
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Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 2:57pm |
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For a square drive tap, or extractor, sometimes a 12 point socket will match up if you carefully size it up. Wont help here though, an extractor will never take the torque. As stated above, there are extractors for this purpose, same principal as the hanson pictured, but female to fit over the lugnut. You might try driving a 12 point socket over the lugnut, then removing it, might have to sacrifice a socket. Good luck! Ed.
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Dans 7080
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Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 3:03pm |
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I had one do the same thing. I put the two lugs next to it back on and tightened them down, then used a chisel and hammer to loosen it, Then proceded to throw it in the creek along with the other locks. It worked really well.
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Roddo
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Posted: 19 Dec 2010 at 9:16pm |
Sorry for the late reply, you know how busy things can get around Christmas. This is exactly what we have at work. 
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