226 rocker shaft

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   Well, still in the process of rebuilding my engine and was cleaning my rocker arm shaft assembly.  I noticed that all the surfaces where things wear, are worn significantly.  I would think that this part on this motor would perhaps work just fine.  But for kicks, has anyone ever made their own shaft.  I havent put a lot of thought in this yet but here is what i was thinking.  Bore out the rocker arms so that they are round again, all the same size of course.  And then find a round tube stock with appropriate wall thickness, and drill appropriate oil holes, assemble, cork it and install.  Did a quick topic search and didnt get much.  What ya think?

Shannon

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sks72107 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Joined: 30 Sep 2010 Location: Logansport, IN Points: 441	Post Options Post Reply Quote sks72107 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 226 rocker shaft Posted: 16 Dec 2010 at 1:02pm
	Well, still in the process of rebuilding my engine and was cleaning my rocker arm shaft assembly. I noticed that all the surfaces where things wear, are worn significantly. I would think that this part on this motor would perhaps work just fine. But for kicks, has anyone ever made their own shaft. I havent put a lot of thought in this yet but here is what i was thinking. Bore out the rocker arms so that they are round again, all the same size of course. And then find a round tube stock with appropriate wall thickness, and drill appropriate oil holes, assemble, cork it and install. Did a quick topic search and didnt get much. What ya think? Shannon

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wi50 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 24 Sep 2010 Location: weegieland Points: 1010	Post Options Post Reply Quote wi50 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2010 at 4:14pm
	I made my own on my pulling tractor from scratch. The outside of the original is hard, weather it's plated or case hardened I don't know, never looked into it. I don't know how long a soft shaft would last bit it is possiable to make one. I have also used an existing shaft from an International Harvester engine, the diameter is just slightly larger than the Allis so one could hone the rockers and posts. Thie IHC will have oil holes in the correct locations, or at least verry close to the Allis, there is no bolt holes through the center 4 cylinders of the engine so you can cut the ends off and use the center part to make a new one for the Allis by simply drilling 4 bolt holes, oil hole and whatever means to secure the ends you wish. If I was going to go through the work, I'd likely use 8620 steel, it machines verry easy and will case harden easily. Just thinking the 8620 may be easier to use than a 41 or 43 type material. A friend of mine owns a large commercial machine shop and has the ability to heat treat and harden in house and for special stuff, it can alwayse go with a batch of their parts to an outside jobber. A lot of work for a used part that is easy to find. I'd bet you can find a good used setup for half a tank of gas from somebody on here Edited by wi50 - 16 Dec 2010 at 5:03pm

mlpankey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Vols country Points: 4580	Post Options Post Reply Quote mlpankey Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2010 at 5:33pm
	you can buy a brand new oem shaft for a tad over 200.

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 Dec 2010 at 6:20pm
	I used steel bushing stock to make a new rocker arm shaft for my Continental Z145. The rocker arms had Garloc steel backed bushings that are no longer made in that size so I pushed them out and inserted cast bronze (not porous bronze) bushings. Some I had to turn the outside, all I had to cut oil grooves and an oil hole to let oil into the rocker arm stamping to lubricate the pushrod. I turned the bushing stock for the shaft a few thousandths oversize and had it ground to size in a lathe. That cost half as much as a replacement shaft. Where the shaft is retained by a little roll pin, I put in a bigger one and had to widen that pin slot in the rocker shaft post. But in that engine the rocker arm failure comes from that pin breaking off, and then when the shaft turns it shuts off the oil to the drilled hole. I also turned a groove around the outside of the shaft so if it turned it would still get oil. The corks in the end rotting are part of the failure killing oil pressure and so not oiling the rockers so I drilled and tapped the ends and put in 7/16-20 setscrews with loctitite to be more secure than the corks. The end rockers were anchored with 1/16" cotter keys, I cut a groove and used an E clip to have a much larger wearing surface. It was clear that the machine shop didn't want to grind in their lathe judging by the charges. I don't have a tool post grinder that will fit my lathe and the rocker arm shaft was a little long for my little late anyway. I had to use a steadrest instead of the tail stock. I thought there might be a market for such an improved shaft and rocker arm bushings, but the costs didn't work out to be competive and V-B came out with a rebuilt assembly for that engine family. Probably because I pestered them for spare parts when I was doing mine. Then I had to push oil and air down the oil riser pipe in the head to get oil to flow to the head. It was plugged. Lots of soaking and an air hose connection applying 100 psi air eventually opened up the passage. Gerald J.