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Block heat, 190 XTD |
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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That ugly season is coming so I am going to put in either a block heater and/or a heat tank. I have both on hand. BUT..... where? The only frost plug I see is besides the back cylinder. Would a block heater that far from the rest of the eng. cylinders accomplish anything? Is there another frost plug more towards the middle or will this be good? Next question, plumbing the heat tank in... where in/out? Do I need a different thermostat housing for a tank, or a different water pump? I put a new water pump on a few years back and it seems they asked how many holes... LOL Is there a place on Lt/Rt sid of block to plumb a heat line into? Would like to be able to start her with 3-point snowblower on without having to start a fire under her for a few hours to a day to get her started.
Edited by NDBirdman - 12 Sep 2022 at 3:22pm |
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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If possible, anyone with this set-up, pictures please?
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2990 |
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I have an internal block heater on my 185. I think it could go in the same location on a 190. Send me a PM with your phone number and I'll send you some pictures.
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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What tractor model?
Darrel |
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1901 |
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Have to run the line around the front of the motor and put a T where the temp sensor is. I think the other hole is behind the fuel filter on mine.
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2990 |
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I don't think you need a block heater and another "tank" heater plumed in do you? usually a block heater is fine.
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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I should have said. I just posted another post about my 190 XT. I'm tired... LOL |
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 33295 |
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My 180 has a Freeze Plug block heater, it does wonders on below 15 days!!! But is under cover most of the time. Even just tarped sitting out the block heater made all the difference to get it started.
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darrel in ND ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8691 |
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I seen that after I posted that question, lol!I'll try to get you a picture of the set up on my XT when I get home Darrel |
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Leadoff ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Location: Calgary Points: 283 |
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NDBirdman
Here is thread from this Forum for a D17IV Diesel in Nebraska that was being fitted with a "tank type" heater. Lots of comments/suggestions that might help you. The pics don't seem to work - perhaps my computer. I have a D17 III Diesel (same engine as IV) with a "tank Type" heater installed by the AC Dealer many years ago. It has the engine cooking in about 20 minutes, starts really well, and saves the battery/starter from the heavier loads caused by the cold. Basically you need a high and low point on the engine coolant circuit. Mine connects to the top of the block to a factory connection (not the thermostat, but that is ok too) and the coolant drain on the side of the engine. I can take a pic if that would help. Let me know Good luck with your project
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1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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Leadoff ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Oct 2016 Location: Calgary Points: 283 |
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NDBirdman
Correction to my previous post, upper connection to cylinder head, not block. As noted in the old Forum Thread, the Engine Heating System is shown in the AGCO Parts Book, D17IV - Cooling System - Water Heater, Engine, Diesel
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1963 D17D Series III. 1965 D15 Series II. 1965 D17 Series IV. 1975 185. 1978 716H. 1979 716H. 1965 780 Harvester/1R&DC. 1957 Model 73 SC 4 Furrow Plow
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Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3966 |
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My 190 has one screwed into the block near the fwd end of starter. I'm in ND and it sits outside all the time.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 4952 |
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Block heaters should be mounted as far away from the Thermostat as possible. If mounted too close the thermostat will start to open and then much the heat can go to the radiator.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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calico190xt68 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2017 Location: Frankton, IN Points: 856 |
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Here is a post I made back in 2018 describing exactly what I did on my 190XT and the parts necessary to make it work. There is more than one post but this shows the results. I assume you have an early 190xt because the later models had the easy screw in version. Getting the frost plug out of the engine block and then getting the sealant to stick on the block heater was the hardest part of the job. Good luck. It is well worth the work. Mine is going on 4 years now and starts right up after about 45 minutes of being plugged in. I know this site search is a little difficult but if you use google and type in "alllis block heater 190xt" my forum post comes right up as the first choice. |
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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After reading calico's post, went to town, got the block heater/bigger o-ring and installed it. Removed fuel line and oil line, drilled hole in plug and popped it right out. Left starter in, was easy to work over. Heater is in, waiting for the RTV silicone to dry for a couple days. Did have to enlarge a couple places but not by much to get it to slip right in. Followed RTV instructions, did the 1/4 turn after an hour and tightened the plug down. Now it's raining pretty good so I'll let it sit a couple days to cure before putting some coolant in/test for leaking. Once I'm confident this works/heats good, I'll work on removing injector pump and get that rebuilt. With luck, she'll run this winter. |
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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calico190xt68 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2017 Location: Frankton, IN Points: 856 |
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Glad to know that my post helped you out. The devil is always in the details and sounds like you have done everything the right way. In my case, with the original block heater not working and then messing around with all of the other issues, I think it took me about 3 weeks from start to finish. You got it done in about 2 days. With your injection pump giving you problems, this may or may not help a bunch having a block heater but with a cold block and a bad injection pump, it probably would not start this winter. My injection pump behaved really erratically towards the end. The final straw was it revved up without the throttle and then would die. I had to pull it home about 400 feet to get it off the road. Then it started again and I put it in the barn and removed the pump. Since getting pump fixed and the block heater, it doesn't take a few turns and fires right up no matter what the weather. Also, Ed's comment about removing the one banjo fitting and looking at the hole alignment will give you confidence that you have lined up the timing marks, even if the timing marks are more visible than mine were. Also, when you get the pump back, don't take off the wire holding the throttle until you are ready to connect the throttle. I bought a small ratchet wrench to tighten that back fuel line after struggling with it a bunch. It was cold and fingers weren't working well. If you have Ed do it, I think it is about a 10 day turn around time so it might be 2-3 weeks and you will be back in the seat. Local pump shop had about the same turnaround because they didn't have the parts. Report back on how you get along with your 190 once injection pump gets reinstalled.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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Reading your post definitely helped immensely, ty very much from an ex-hoosier (mooresville). I have a dau that lives in Franklin still. Winters are a HUGE difference here. I've been able to start her at minus 20 a few times but it involves a torpedo heater and many hours... by then I'm usually done clearing snow with a cabless Kubota with a loader. Was just reading this winter is predicted to be colder than usual so I think I want a cab for sure! I've been messaging back n forth and I think I'm going to go ahead and have him rebuild my pump.
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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calico190xt68 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jan 2017 Location: Frankton, IN Points: 856 |
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ND is quite a change from Mooresville and I spent some time in Minnesota in January so I know the cold you are talking about and nothing like Indiana. I always thought it would be nice to live in ND/Montana/Wyoming, but probably not in the winter. I see your serial number is much lower than mine. I had a Stolper cab on mine (not original but put there later) but removed it to put a 500 loader on it with a joy stick this year. Cab was hot in the summer for baling hay but I do miss the sunshade. I take it that you have both a loader and a cab on your 190XT? What kind of cab and loader? I bought my 190XT because it was 1/3 price of a JD 4020, it had new tires and it had a cab, even without AC. Until I got the 7010, I never had a cab. I would get that injection pump off and into Ed as soon as you can if you need that tractor for the winter. ND winter will be there soon, it not next week. Make sure your sediment bowls don't have any water in it before freezing sets in. I lost a bunch of fuel because the bowl expanded when the ice melted and leaked all of my fuel out. I found out that with a half tank or less of fuel and leaving the tractor out in the hay field here and there in the hottest part of the summer creates condensation in the tank, then gets into the sediment bowl. Another harsh newbie lesson on my part. Good luck and happy to help a fellow Hoosier.
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80 7010, 80 7020. 67 190XTD Series I w/500 Loader, AC 2000 Plow, AC 4 row Planter, AC 77G Rake, Member Indiana A-C Partners, Member TAC
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 2990 |
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Good job getting the Block heater installed. Even if it "will" start, I like to plug in if possible. It's soo much better for the engine and starter to start warmed up than cranking while cold.
You might also consider getting a magnet heater and putting it under the oil Pan. This would warm up your oil nicely too.
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53490 |
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I've probably said this before, but here it is again... While I like block heaters, I hate the electric they eat up. Long ago I learned that a perfection 500 kerosene heater slides in under most full size tractors, require no plumbing or electric. Just don't put them under an oil-leaker...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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ND is an awesome place to live until jan-feb... then I would say horrible is an understatement. Still, I love it here!
Mine has a Stolper cab but no loader. My loader tractor is a Cabless Kubota. In hindsight, I wish I would have gotten one with a cab but, it is what it is. Good little tractor.
I'm working on it, or should say planning too. My shop is open air... LOL, it's been raining since last night and not supposed to let off for a while. Darn temps getting down to 40 at night now, 58 here when we went to town. Hope this rain doesn't turn to snow soon but... it is ND. It's rough... trying to split my limited time left before that nasty white stuff starts getting blown our way by you know who.... yea.... him... LOL I'm putting as many miles as I can on my HD before I am forced to put her up for 6 months. But, in the end, I need to get the snowblower(190) working.
I've heard that a few times. Probably works if you have a shed/barn to put her in. Here, I don't have one. The wind howls here relentlessly, starts 1 Jan and doesn't stop til 31 Dec. In ND, every day, it either sucks or blows, but it is constantly windy. The heat would have very little chance to make it to the block. I do wrap the front with a cheap blue tarp and run a propane torpedo heater but it sure sucks the LP up fast!
Edited by NDBirdman - 16 Sep 2022 at 7:46pm |
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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orangereborn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NW WI Points: 1461 |
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![]() Edited by orangereborn - 19 Sep 2022 at 12:51am |
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NDBirdman ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Jul 2011 Location: ND Points: 1429 |
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Kewl. Thanks for the replies! I have a block heater in her now, works good. Now I have the injection pump just about out and it started storming on me sooo... maybe finish tomorrow. Always something... LOL |
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1955 WD45 S#205467, 190XT #6652 DXT
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