My newest favorite mistake. HD6G

Well here she is, in all her glory. I told the tow company she weighed in at 16,000+, but the dispatcher told the driver it was 12,500. He must have looked up the Ag crawler specs and didn't know it had a loader and counterweights. That truck was bagging, but hauled it the 30 miles to my house. Seller said it had been down for 'a year' . My guess.....3-5 years. Many controls and linkages stuck, and the tracks wouldn't turn....seller assured me 'it would roll', they had 'moved it with a tractor several times'. HA! I figure the brake bands are rusted up. Anyways, has full oil with a lot of diesel fuel in it, hydraulic fluid is clean and full. Clutch is out. I wonder if diesel dilution in the oil will separate after setting for a long period? Will it float to the top? I'm going to change the fuel filters, flush the lines, put in some batteries, and see if this old B#$ch will fire up. As an old nostalgic mechanic who loves old machines, this is like a mystery novel. I feel like Dorothy finding the Tin Man and loosening up his parts with oil. I will find out all that the seller knew , but didn't tell me, and I will find out how much he didn't know, and why he couldn't keep it running.  

This machine look have good undercarriage on and about oiland fuel in pan you could just loosed the drain plug and let fuel comming out until you the oil comming and change the contenair  and you can see how oil was in pan

This motor is a BUDA ALLIS 344 and these filters should ne easy to find, you should removed them and bring them with you to your NAPA DEALER if you can't find a parts number on them

Ian Beale wrote: That ought to have a PSB injection pump For which parts are unobtanium Reiterating - As it has been sitting for a questionable time make sure the pump is not stuck before you try to start it

      I've only turned it over by hand, and it was really stiff. Removed the intake and introduced some lubrication through the ports. Turns very nicely. Starter drive lever pin was broken, and hopefully, that kept others from being able to crank it over. Fuel filters had clear fuel in them. Someone has tried to get it running. Am I correct that the fuel transfer pump could be substituted for some sort of external electric pump? Cheers

Codger wrote: Can you post photos of the starter and parts; along with identification tag? I will be over to the rebuilder I use next week and can show them what you need. You may be better off replacing it however.

The only ID tag is on the manual contact switch. Hard to read  DelcoRemy 4070, or 4c7c....32737. Definitely has been rebuilt before, very clean on inside, and old punch marks. This little pawl on the bendix arm has been repaired before, I found an old clutch cylinder rod from my F250 that matches the two step diameter of this pin exactly, so I will make one if necessary. 

Edited by doctorcorey - 10 Sep 2022 at 11:33am

CAL(KS) wrote: if crankcase is full of diesel and it wouldnt stay running the transfter pump seal is shot.  hopefully it couldnt build enough fuel pressure and an easy fix.

You wouldn't happen to know the number for that seal on the transfer pump, would you? My parts manual is a week or so out.

HD6 Merv wrote: Dr Corey.  Lip seal for fuel transfer pump is  skf 4231. Available any good bearing supplier. This is most common cause of diesel getting into engine oil  Replaced them on my HD6 with 6000 motor.  And im pretty sure lift pump is the same for HD344 engine.  Unless of course someone has bored out housing for a different seal.  Either way lift pump is a simple gear pump and easy to fix   Fuel injection heads are different though; along with injectors from HD344 to 6000 engine

Thanks for the info. 

HD6 Merv wrote: Dr Corey.  Lip seal for fuel transfer pump is  skf 4231. Available any good bearing supplier. This is most common cause of diesel getting into engine oil  Replaced them on my HD6 with 6000 motor.  And im pretty sure lift pump is the same for HD344 engine.  Unless of course someone has bored out housing for a different seal.  Either way lift pump is a simple gear pump and easy to fix   Fuel injection heads are different though; along with injectors from HD344 to 6000 engine

  Merv,  I'm pretty sure this seal must be bad. I can tell just from a little cranking that the fuel is getting in the oil, but can this leak enough to cause a lack of fuel pressure? My transfer pump is moving fuel (to the secondary filter), but will barely move the gauge when cranking the motor. I guess I will substitute another gauge and see if that is a problem. Next step is to try to tilt that nose/radiator guard forward so I can get to the pump. Thanks

HD6 Merv wrote: gauge will only really register with engine running, should be around 30 psi, anything over 20 is good. The 2nd fuel filter can be a bugger to bleed.  To bleed those psb pumps, remove the 3/4 nut in the centre of the fuel pump head, where the injector pipes come out. And crank until fuel comes out tthere

  Thanks, I'll try that. Now, I'm trying to tilt the radiator guard/nose piece forward so I can access the injector pump (to get the transfer pump out, the guard is partially blocking it). I removed the two rear bolts. Am I supposed to turn or loosen those two big flathead pivots with the 3/4 square drive, or is it supposed to pivot on those? Never had to move this piece on my 7G.

It runs! Finally started popping a few cylinders after I got it fully primed and opened the throttle a little. Hydraulics work fine, too. The old 'oil' I drained out had so much diesel in it that I'm sure I could pour it right back in the tank and burn it. Time now to start pulling the main clutch down and pray I can find parts for it. 

I've used 2 torches at the same time to heat up those big bolts. Spot weld them on the outside and get the biggest breaker bar on those nuts and start in. While you have it opened up. Replace the radiator hoses. Be careful you don't leave anything laying on top of the motor while starting the motor. I left a 3/8th wrench up there, the fan kicked it thru the radiator. That was $400.00 to fix 20 years ago.   

Ian Beale wrote: That ought to have a PSB injection pump For which parts are unobtanium Reiterating - As it has been sitting for a questionable time make sure the pump is not stuck before you try to start it

  What about gaskets for the transfer pump. Are they paper, or o-ring, or ?

Ian Beale wrote: It has been about 15 years since I was in that area! I don't remember there being anything special.

I was able to to get the pump out, turned it a bit to clear the elbow and out it popped. The seal was not hard, but a tiny bit of side play in the pump shaft was enough to let fuel pass the seal. Didn't disassemble the pump....seal was in tight but I got it out. I didn't want to mess with that 'shim' gasket between body and cover. Still hitting 90 degrees here every day, slowing me down at my age. I did discover today that the fuel cutoff control doesn't work. Plunger is moving full travel, but no shut-off. Guess I'll take a look in there and see which irreplaceable part is missing/broken. Cheers. 

The cluch at pad .375 should be very good

Sounds like you are on a mission! Tracy