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262 Leaking Coolant.....

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BennyLumpkin View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Mar 2010
Location: Centre Hall, PA
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BennyLumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 262 Leaking Coolant.....
    Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 3:40pm
My buddy has a TL14 Allis Loader and it has the 262 in it. He called me today and asked whats going on that it is leaking coolant into the back cylinder....now I mean back as in #6...because the engine sits backwards in a loader...anyways I havent dealt with 262's at all and dont know if they are prone to head gasket problems, liner problems, or head problems....I just looked at a pic I have and it looks like the water pump is on the head if it makes any difference....Id have posted this on the Construction page but this side of the forum gets alot more traffic.....thanks for any help and if you want to see pics of the engine if it helps they are on the construction forum under a listing TL14.
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
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D-17_Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote D-17_Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 4:25pm
Likely just a head gasket, but these engines are prone to cracked heads. Most of the time the cracks aren't deep enough to hurt anything. The good thing is you'll have the head off so have it checked anyway.
 
When you pull the head look at the gasket for deformities or rust spots where there should not be any water.
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Hurst View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 6:01pm
Also, check the sleeve protrusion.  A dropped sleeve can cause the head gasket to blow.

Hurst
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:06pm
I talked with Bill at Sandy Lake and he makes it sound like the water passage in the rear of the block is a common problem as close as it is to the cylinder. He told me about one tractor he changed the head gasket several times and on the last one he reinforced that hole with a piece of copper tubing. He hadn't seen it back after he did that. The other problem of course is the dropped sleeves Hurst pointed out. The flange on the sleeves is too narrow. If the counter bore in the block starts to rust, the sleeve drops and the gasket goes. He told me that he has double stacked fire rings to keep from having to pull the sleeves and have the block properly machined. My 262 had the low sleeve problem. The O.E. spec is flush + or - .002. Some of the more experienced guys say it really needs to be .002 above which I'm inclined to agree with.
Pull the head and have it checked for cracks or warpage. If the sleeves are low, pull it and have the bores re cut. Look around the head bolt holes. My original 262 block was cracked around 10 of the head bolt holes.
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec 2010 at 8:11pm
I had a similar leak on a 262D and was planning on removing the head (and discovering a lot of other things that needed attention) when the NAPA guy told me about a product they had that could plug the leak (and that many others that have used it with good results). Since the price was right, I tried it... it did the trick. Needed to drain the radiator and flush it several times with plain water (the product did not work well with antifreeze), dumped into the radiator (filled with fresh water) and let it run until everything was hot. Let it set overnite, drained the water, installed new water/antifreeze, and the leak was sealed tight; no drips whatsover. Been that way for 2 years now. Never was one to believe in chemical fixes until then. Now, if only I could remember the name of the product!
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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NICKMI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NICKMI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2010 at 4:28pm
try moroso ceramic block sealer you have to drain it and use it with water as mentioned above I saw that the local parts plus dealer had it in stock dad used it in his 39 b that was getting water in the oil tried it and it cured the problem its now 10 years later and still no water
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BennyLumpkin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BennyLumpkin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec 2010 at 7:41pm
I'll update him on your advice....its greatly appreciated guys. Thanks!
Central PA Allis Express
1934 WC254
1945 WF
1945 WC135755
1951 WD68085
1953 WD45-150217
1957 WD45D-230744D
B110
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Brian Jasper co. Ia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec 2010 at 7:06am
Knowing what it costs to fix one correctly (gulp) I'd be willing to give the mechanic in a can a shot at it too. I think I've heard what Greg is talking about called "Liquid Glass".
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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