This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | ||||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
WD45 shifter |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Mike Miller
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Bedford IN Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:14am |
Guy's I have seen post about fixing worn shifters with picture/sketchs, I need help mine is getting pretty loose, can you help? Thanks Mike
|
|
Sponsored Links | |
Burgie
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Scottsburg, IN Points: 1192 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
See if this will help.
|
|
"Burgie"
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18869 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Burgie, I didn't see anything? Mine is like that too, pretty loose. Jumps out about every other time. Thanks, Ted
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
|
Jeff(WD45-SATX-TN)
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Sewanee, TN Points: 443 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes, any help / pictures / experience would be helpful for me too.
|
|
1954 WD45 NF "Iron Tater"
|
|
Dipstick In
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I have a 45 that was loose, always sticking in 2d gear. I took the shifter out and built it up with brass. Flatten it out so that 5/16 or 3/8 wrench will slide on and off. Kinda depends on how much wear in the forks. Seems to have done the job for me. These were a notorious wear point in the WD WD-45 shifters. Dipstick In
|
|
Goose
Orange Level Joined: 07 Oct 2009 Location: Melrose, Wis Points: 2471 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Build up the end of the shift lever (bottom end) with weld, then grind it into a flat, square shape. The square end gets worn, then slips out of the shift fork arrangement. Also, you can replace the pins that the shift lever pivots on. They can be purchased new.
|
|
Mike Miller
Bronze Level Joined: 03 Dec 2010 Location: Bedford IN Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I need to clarify my problem, the shifter twist, it still shifts ok, I guess I need the pins only. What size are they? I can make them. Thanks Mike
|
|
Dipstick In
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Remington, In. Points: 8602 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
My 2011 Steiner catalog has them on pp 46 for 12.65 per pair. They are .325 on the square end and .250 on the round end. They push in the sides of the shift tower and you line the notches of the shifter with the square ends, this keeps the lever from twisting. The also have the washer and snap ring. Several of the supporters of this site would have them also. Wish you well! Dipstick In or Joe
|
|
KC-WD45
Silver Level Joined: 11 Oct 2010 Location: Kansas City Points: 114 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I had the same problem with mine. I found that the pivot pin and the slot in the shifter were worn. I purchased the oversized pivot pin from Steiner and then took it and the pin to a machine shop to have the slot cut to fit the new pin. I have used it quite a lot since then and have not had the problem. I will tell you that cutting the slot is something best left to the pros because the steel is hardened and there is not a good way to clamp it and get the new cut aligned with the old one. Total cost with pins was $50.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |