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Hunt4Allis 
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 Topic: D17 power director lever
Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 7:03am |
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Up into this point my lever has worked for high and low without any issues but over the weekend while moving some round bales things changed. Now the only way that I can get any gears to work is if the lever is pulled back towards me in low position( it won't even go in reverse and move unless the shifter is in low) lever pushed forward I've got nothing? Did something break or where should I look for first? Thanks Matt.
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Oct 2021 at 7:05am
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MACK
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 7:30am |
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I would guess hi side plates all broke. MACK
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Gatz in NE
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 8:07am |
Probably what Mack says, but easy things first Is the set screw on the bottom tight?
Edited by Gatz in NE - 05 Oct 2021 at 8:09am
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 9:15am |
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Set screw where?
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Stan R
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 9:21am |
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Set screw and locking nut is on the bottom of the handle where it pivots on the shaft. Loosen up nut and tighten the screw (actually a bolt) then lock with nut.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 9:23am |
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Two important questions: #1. Can you pull the hand clutch lever any farther rearward than normal?? If not, there is no loose setscrew. #2. Does the hand clutch lever feel just fine when placed in the forward position and does the lever stay fully forward without you having to hold it there and does it "snap" when pulling it out of high side ?? If so, you have broken driving discs in high side.
Edited by DrAllis - 05 Oct 2021 at 9:24am
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Clay
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 10:24am |
Anyone have any experience with TRIBCO power director clutch discs? Tribco Inc. - Home of Clutchtex and Braketex, the first 100% KEVLAR fibered textile composite friction materials.
| Power director clutch for models D-10, D-12, D-14, D-15, D-17, D-19; 170, 175, 180, 185, 190, 200 | 70261212, 70257672(old) | 700 | | 32 teeth | wet |
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 10:55am |
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Ok, I believe by the two important questions that my high plates broke.why would it not move in reverse with director in high then?( Only moves in reverse with handle pulled back in low now?
I don't even want to think about fixing right now so can I just keep in low till next spring when done using it to move round bales?
Thanks Matt
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Oct 2021 at 10:58am
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 11:30am |
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Reverse transmission gear has nothing to do with your complaint. Your complaint (as I read it) is the tractor will only move in LOW range of the Power Director clutch. HIGH range doesn't do anything. So, you didn't answer my question as to whether the Power Director lever feels normal and "snap" in and out of engagement in HIGH range ??????
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 1:00pm |
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Oh, I did answer by the 2 important questions.
All I know is no movement in forward position (high) and no reverse movement unless in low.
My next question was can I use it the way it is until next spring when I can have time to break it down and fix it?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 1:15pm |
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Is this a SHUTTLE clutch tractor ??????
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 1:54pm |
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It's a 1959 series 1 d17 wide front. What I'm speaking about is a large lever on the right hand side when you're sitting in the seat that you have to push a button in with your thumb to get the lever to move either forward or back. I'm not sure what that means about a shuttle clutch? I've always used it as a high or low variable speed...
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Oct 2021 at 1:56pm
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DrAllis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 2:18pm |
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Not a shuttle clutch. One more time.....does the hand clutch lever "snap" in and out of high range ???????
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 2:29pm |
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I don't know I'm not with the tractor right now but what I'm asking is can I use it this way for a while until I get it
It does stay in low range in any gear, just drives slower obviously
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 05 Oct 2021 at 2:35pm
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 05 Oct 2021 at 8:01pm |
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There’s a very good chance it’s like MACK and Doc says, broken clutch plates in the high side. I had that happen to mine.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 5:18am |
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Can I use the tractor if they are broke on the high side If I keep it in low?This happened about halfway through moving around bales and once I realized that it would still go in low everything seemed fine no noises or anything. I know it's not the perfect scenario to be using something that has broken parts inside but I really don't want to have to break a tractor in half to fix if it will work in low till spring?
How much of a job is it to do?
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 06 Oct 2021 at 5:19am
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 9:16am |
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I don't know for sure but suspect can use in low without hurting anything. However I am not certain. The broken plates may harm the steel plates. Wouldn't matter if you want to replace it all. Im pretty sure you can upgrade plates to a later,larger tractor for bullet proof PD...but maybe i'm confused. Doc and MACK know and maybe they'll eventually answer your "can I use it" question.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 10:50am |
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Yeah, like I said earlier nothing seems to make any noise or acts badly in low but I'm just not sure about a long-term use like from now till spring before I can get it fixed
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 5:20pm |
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It’s hard to say if continued use in low would make it worse. When I pulled my D17D apart, the friction plates were broken but the steel separators were still useable.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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MACK
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Posted: 06 Oct 2021 at 9:39pm |
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That's like asking how long is a piece of string. If all hi plates are broken, they can stack up and try to engage, worping the steel dividers, or pieces of broken plates will be running through gears and bearings. Best to fix it. Not a big job. MACK
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 07 Oct 2021 at 4:57am |
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I moved lever back and forth last night. It seams to snap in tightly in low but feels very loose/ disengaged pushing it into high
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Oct 2021 at 5:57am |
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That's the answer I was waiting for. It sounds like linkage that may have come undone if high side feels funny. Id be pulling off the side cover and inspecting it. EDIT** Could be the compartment is very low on oil and the brass throwout bearing has burned up on the high side ? Quit using it in the meantime.
Edited by DrAllis - 07 Oct 2021 at 7:21am
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 07 Oct 2021 at 7:19am |
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Ok, can you tell me/ show me how to go about removing side cover( need to drain oil or do anything else first?)
Any drawings on this linkage?
Thanks Matt
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 07 Oct 2021 at 6:38pm |
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I'm gathering from reading other people's posts that I may have to drain the oil out to remove this side plate? Then that will give me access to the linkage?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 07 Oct 2021 at 7:47pm |
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Drain plug is directly down from the foot clutch pedal and takes an 1 1/8" wrench. You should get 2 to 2 1/2 gallons of oil if it is full. Before you do that, why don't you place the hand clutch lever fully into LOW range and gently move the lever forward and backwards a little bit and tell me how much sloppiness/freeplay there is. I don't want you to hit neutral !! I'm just trying to figure out how loose the brass bearing is inside. The top of the lever shouldn't move more than a couple of inches.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 08 Oct 2021 at 6:31am |
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I'm not sure where I would notice any sloppy -ness or Freeplay? Tractor running you mean?( Meaning sideways play ? )If I push button on top and slowly move forward I'll hit neutral...
One thing I've noticed is with tractor in neutral( before this happened with no high range)as it's sitting there running the whole tractor rocks back and forth slightly ( probably a different problem?)
I'm hoping I don't have to split in half b/c I don't have over head hoist strong enough to hold both halves separately/ stabilized...
Thanks Matt
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DrAllis
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Posted: 08 Oct 2021 at 7:34am |
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The lever only moves forward/rearward, not sideways. Sloppiness (if there is any excess) will be more than usual forward/rearwards. No overhead hoist is needed to split that tractor.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 17 Nov 2021 at 10:44am |
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I've been swamped with other projects so I'm getting back on this soon. From what I can tell I should possibly be looking to see if just the linkage came loose, but to do that I will still need to drain the oil correct?
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Ted J
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Posted: 19 Nov 2021 at 8:24am |
I'm liking this thread Matt. I've got a Series I that has a problem with the PD. It won't move at all, it's stuck in low, I can't shift it.
DrAllis, you said; "No overhead hoist is needed to split that tractor". How do you do it?
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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DrAllis
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Posted: 19 Nov 2021 at 10:01am |
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Block the wide front axle pivot so the front half cannot lay over sideways. Jack under the hydraulic sump using a 2 x 4 block of wood to bite into the casting. Block both sides of the front wheels so it cannot roll. Split the tractor at the instrument panel. Slide a 4 ft long pipe (1 3/8" I.D.) over the PTO shaft as a balance tool. Three people....one on each rear tire and someone to steer/balance the pipe. Tractor will split nicely and balance pretty close. Place safety jacks under the rear end after rolled apart 3 feet or more. The straighter you roll it apart, the easier it will go back together.
I did a series 3 by myself (on concrete) a couple of years ago. Went back together by myself too, using some pretty long line-up dowels.
Edited by DrAllis - 19 Nov 2021 at 12:29pm
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