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electric motor help |
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24572 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 21 May 2021 at 6:20am |
OK, it's too hot here for me to think...... Air compressor(powermate,60g,155psi,3.7rhp) 'died', Century AC motor(4HP, 230x 15), will start, run but NO torque. it stalls/growls when belted to head( head NOT siezed...),belt tension fine. I suspect the 'run' cap even though it 'runs...'. According to manual it's 25mfd/270 yet it says 20mfd . So cap is $189 ! choke, new 3HP motor is $200. 5HP is $350 but need to rewire power... Naturally ,sine the move I can't find my stash of motor caps....grrrrr looking for any advice, options, ??? thanks Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87113 |
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capacitor might be the problem.. I normally look on e-bay and find one.. Sometimes identical, sometimes CLOSE.. Being off a little on the START capacitor will vary the time ( milli seconds) to get to speed... Not sure what changing the value of the RUN capacitor would do, but probably varies the PHASE ANGLE that would effect the TORQUE..
I though capacitors were about $20 ??? ------------------------------------------ from GOOGLE......... A run capacitor is used to continuously adjust current or phase shift to a motor's windings in an effort to optimise the motor's torque and efficiency performance. Because it is designed for continuous duty, it has a much lower failure rate than a start capacitor.
Edited by steve(ill) - 21 May 2021 at 8:57am |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87113 |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3871 |
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What a timely thread to post as I have a sweep auger that runs but won’t start on its own. Have to “kick start” it to operate.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87113 |
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you need the START capacitor... if will look similar, but very different numbers.. nott 20 UF.... normally 100-200-300 type numbers.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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JW in MO ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Feb 2010 Location: South KC Area Points: 2660 |
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Yours should be under the bubble cover on the side of the motor, it should be black and round. As Steve said, should be something like; 88-108, 108-130, 130-145mfd, and then probably 110vac, 220vac and so on. The larger the vac the larger the diameter usually.
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Maximum use of available resources!
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Dusty MI ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5058 |
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Single Phase motors have a centrifugal switch that is part of the starting system. I've seen the springs on that switch break.
Dusty
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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HD6GTOM ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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If you get a new motor, make sure it is rated for air compressor use. Farm duty motors don't last very long on a compressor. If you have yours rebuilt, make sure you tell the rebuilder it is for your compressor. Speaking from experience owning a tire shop for 22+ years.
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