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WD-45 block questions....

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JayD-17(NY) View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayD-17(NY) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WD-45 block questions....
    Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 6:14pm
Mu cousin recently purchased a WD-45 parts tractor but after getting it home and looking it over, we decided it was a bit too nice overall to turn it into a parts machine. Sheet metal is in near perfect condition....Externally, the tractor doesn't seem like it had too hard a life, with very little wear on the drawbar and front end. Still has the original Nelson muffler with it.

Previous owner bought it to restore but when he pulled the head, he saw hairline cracks in the block between the cylinder sleeves and lost interest in proceeding with the restoration. It then sat for a decade or so before he decided to let it go for parts price...

My cousin took the head to a shop and they found no cracks or flaws and they are currently giving it a valve job......

My cousin worked on removing the block from the tractor....he said it came out fairly easy and then removed the pistons from the sleeves. #4 was lightly stuck......

I took some pictures of the block hoping to get some opinions on how to proceed from here.....How big of a concern are these cracks? Should the block be tested too? Is it repairable? Are the sleeves savable or should they come out too? He said the pistons and ring looked to be fitting tight in the sleeves. There was no water in the oil or vice-versa. He is wondering if the sleeves are savable, if he could slap new rings on the pistions and new bearings on the crank or should a complete and through engine job be done....


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MACK View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 8:28pm
Would be more concerned about rust on sleeves. The cracks are no concern.       MACK
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 8:57pm
Mack and The good Dr are some of the veterans on these Allis block crack issues. My two cents would be the same no issues with the cracks in the upper deck as the new sleves should protrude .005 thousands above the deck and seal on the head gasket. Now I like to have the block checked for other issues such as cracks in the lower webs between the sleeves. If no cracks then your good to do a rebuild. I would just go with new sleeves and a complete rebuild kit. Yes not a cheap date but about like one payment on a new kubota!:)
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DSeries4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 9:46pm
That craack is no problem.  I rebuilt a D14 that had a crack like that, but has never caused any problem.  I would definitely do a full rebuild on it, you would never have to touch it again.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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blue924.9 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote blue924.9 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jul 2020 at 10:07pm
Block in my wd cracked and sank down. Pulled a parts wc block apart and had a crack between 3 and 4 that was repaired


Has worked for 4 years now. I vote take it to the machine shop and let them look as long as the sealing surface is fiat
hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 2:18am
As others noted, that crack is entirely common characteristic of this engine.  The casting at that location really only serves purpose of maintaining the top of the sleeve's position, and others noted, the seal is formed by virtue of gasket being sandwiched between the head, sleeve face, and coolant port areas.  There's no circumstance of concern there.

If the sleeves are damaged, I suggest dropping in a piston/sleeve kit.  Make sure the piston/rod orientation is correct... read the service manual.  If you install them facing the wrong way, they self-adjust to rather undesireable geometry and make unpleasant noises.
Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 7:17am
If I'm going to spend $$$$$ on a new motor kit, regrind the crank, etc , I myself would prefer a perfect block. One upper deck crack  that was flat and not spread apart, I could probably live with, but more than one, not for me. Where I live it isn't hard at all to find a good used block for $200 or less. To each his own.
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Sugarmaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 3:49pm
The doctor has a good point. I was fortunate to have a good block setting in the corner of the shop for the last 5 years. It had no cracks in top or bottom. Mainly because it was replacement block that may not had many hours on it then was allowed to rust the pistons solid again.
Good luck with your engine.
 Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boss Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jul 2020 at 6:49pm
All depends on the intended use. A tractor that gets used maybe twice a month 6 months out of the year for light duty I would clamp the sleeves down with bolts and washers, hone them clean, re-ring and run. Something that might plow 8 hours a day, bale hay, drag logs etc I would spend the money and do a complete over haul.
 
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