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allis 7000 hydraulic issue |
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taylortpers
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Aug 2019 Location: oregon Points: 5 |
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Posted: 15 Aug 2019 at 9:05am |
I have an allis 7000. My hydraulics on the 3 point started getting weaker and weaker by the year until now they do not operate. The steering works and the tractor will move and the power shift works but if you try to steer to hard or use the steering brakes, the tractor stops and the steering stops too. I rebuilt the pump but noticed a small dent in one of the races that hold the seals. I have checked the hydraulic fluid in the transmission and it is to the bottom of the top sight glass. I understand that the rear hydraulic tank is for the differential only but I put fluid in it years ago and it seemed to drain down into the transmission, is this even possible? It is my opinion that I am going to have to buy a new pump, anyone have experience like this? The pump is like $1700 so I am hesitant to do that if that's not my problem.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
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Maroon colored chassis with gearshift on the floor ? or black chassis with "T" shifter on the console ??
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taylortpers
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Aug 2019 Location: oregon Points: 5 |
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gearshift on the floor, maroon frame
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
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You know there's a problem in the pump, with an issue with the seal groove. You don't say if the seals were blown when you had the pump apart. Did you replace anything inside the pump?? The hitch and remote outlets could have a main relief valve problem, which is on the hydraulic valve stack, but that would have no effect on the steering complaint. Used to be you could buy a section of the pump from an AGCO dealer without buying a whole pump. Is the priority valve spool on the rear section of the pump free to slide in and out ??
Edited by DrAllis - 16 Aug 2019 at 6:33pm |
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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3point not lifting could be cab mounts at back. Jurk hard in lever and see if 3point tries to lift. MACK
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
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Good point, Mack. The front three hydraulic levers must all be "in line" when in the HOLD position or the linkage is out of synch. This means the cab has settled down. If you can hit RAISE-HOLD-LOWER-FLOAT with the two remote levers (engine off), your linkage is fine and the levers are in synch. If levers are out of synch the console in the cab can be raised up by loosening the bolts and using the slotted holes to align things where they should be.
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tbran
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3285 |
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The remotes issue does not fit here- but we have SEVERAL 7000's that when steered hard would quit pulling - usually the extension of the cylinder is worse that steering to retract to cyl as extending takes more oil - the issue is the pressure maintaining valve in the PS valve - the plug faces the rear of the tractor and has a spring holding a metal relief or pressure maintaining plug that keeps the pressure up to the PShift when the demand to the steering is increased. The plug or valve vibrates and 'cuts' itself a new seat in the aluminum housing and will not move forward to maintain the pressure to the clutches. Removing the valve and reaming the ledge down to allow the plug to move forward and seat will eliminate the issue.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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taylortpers
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Aug 2019 Location: oregon Points: 5 |
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thank you all for your suggestions so far. I thought that I could replace just the part of the pump that was having an issue and finally found the section at a dealer who told me that the box had been sitting on his shelf for like 30 years. Well, that's the piece that has a ding in it. I am thinking that he got the part in and it had gotten hurt while in transit so he probably got a new one and set the old one on the shelf, forgetting that it was faulty, maybe thinking it could be machined and fixed. Anyway, I replaced all of the seals with a new seal kit which is everything you need except the body itself. Yeah, didn't fix the problem. I am going to try to do a pressure test to see if it is building up enough pressure and then turn the wheel and see what happens. I expect that this is not going to end well for me and that I am going to have to buy a new pump, I would just buy the end I need but it seems like nobody splits it out anymore. If anyone has a good parts place they can recommend I sure would like something better than our local people. (local being 12 hours away)
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20191 |
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So, you had blown internal pump seals and a bad section seal groove????? As far as I know you can still purchase a new pump housing section from AGCO. What about the priority valve spool in the rear section of the pump?? What about your hydraulic levers being in synch and being able to hit FLOAT, LOWER, HOLD and RAISE ??
Edited by DrAllis - 19 Aug 2019 at 6:09am |
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taylortpers
Bronze Level Joined: 15 Aug 2019 Location: oregon Points: 5 |
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the detents on the valves are working and in the correct places. I replaced the seals in hopes that they were bad, they did not look bad when I replaced them. The little section of the pump had a small dent but the replacement section also had a small dent. Please tell me how to check the priority valve
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