Wd45 puller

I have a wd45 I bought over a year ago and it dumped the antifreeze I to the oil. Since I'm going to be overhauling it i thought about a different motor. I see where people use an m code or e code engine. Which one wood be better?. I also wont be farming with it being as I have another one for that. So I wondered what some mods would be to get more power out of it while I'm going. Been getting last or next to last so I would like to be a little more competitive.

Ok that's what I was wondering. I'm afraid the block is cracked on this one and thought about going this route to increase power

There is a E combine motor for sale in the classified ads on here if you didn’t see it yet

There is really NOTHING you can do to increase the torque/HP that doesn't require going inside of the engine EXCEPT installing a larger carburetor or changing the venturi in yours to make it flow more air. A larger body carb will require opening up the throat on your manifold, but I don't consider that to be going into the engine.

I've never known of a combine engine that was ever overhauled. They don't have that many hrs on them. The 175 cam grind is good for maybe 4 or 5 HP.  D-19 carb at least that much. To switch to WD pistons is a crap shoot because it depends on what the compression is when you get done. An M-code engine will have 140-145 lbs of compression. A Z code should have 170 lbs of compression. There was more than one WD piston and unless you do better than 145 lbs of compression you'll gain nothing and maybe lose because they are a flat top instead of a Power Crater bowl.

Maximum engine speed depends on what your RULES allow.  Normally a D-17 governor spring gets you the most RPM's (2000-2100) as it is the stiffest/strongest spring they made, regardless of what others say. I have no idea if you can get a correct D-17 governor spring from AGCO anymore. Last time I got one it was of incorrect stiffness and I went to a salvage tractor and got one.  I installed A-C OEM 175 pistons in a customers WD when I overhauled it 30 yrs ago and it had exactly the correct compression as a WD would have had. The only thing a gained was the Power Crater bowl and a different exhaust sound that I say comes from the bowl design piston top.

A D-19 size carb on a stock D-17 engine will make more HP. It would probably burn 5 gallons per hr versus 4 gallons per hr under full load, but it will increase the output of a stock engine, yes.

DrAllis wrote: I've never known of a combine engine that was ever overhauled.

Kinda straying a bit off topic but when Dad bought his E at Suess Equipment in Stewartville Mn, the dealership found that the previous owner had been running it without an air filter. They overhauled it just before Dad bought it. That was in 1977.


Edited by Lonn - 14 May 2019 at 12:38pm

My WD45 has:
D19 Carb with large venturi

You have to be VERY careful about any overbore kit. Many of them have LESS compression than an M code engine and nowhere near a Z code engine. So, you've spent a bunch of $$$$$$ to LOSE HP ??   You haven't said what weight classes or rear tire size. If you are staying with a 28 inch tire, I don't think (at this point anyway) you need to tear down a good running engine just to run low gear.

I use the  SK156 piston kit it is high compression 4-1/8 for wd engine piston pin is lower that way the piston comes up higher to the head use hi octane gas Charlie 175 has it right not less then 92 octane I built 7 like that used d17 carb had cam work done

My kit makes it 10.1..1 C/R

Are your pistons flat tops?

Low gear in a straight stick WD is faster than any WD45 low gear.  They called a WD  2 1/2 MPH and the WD45 2 1/3 MPH and remember there was one size difference in rear tires too.  "An accepted rule"  ??  The rules for pulling don't specify gear ratios, so I'm not sure what you mean by that. Some rules require low gear only, but that may be all.

Does anyone know what the deck height is for the 226, D17 engine?