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More Coolant in Oil |
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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Just drained the oil out of my CA. There were 3 drops of lovely green coolant in the well in the oil plug. No evidence otherwise of coolant in the oil that I saw, but it'd be under 4+ quarts of oil in the drain bucket. How concerned should I be?
Thanks Dave
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54090 |
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Might be a seeping FP, take valve cover off, and look. Might also be some small porosity in the casting. Keep an eye on oil level, and loosen drain plug occasionally, and check what comes out, and you'll prolly be ok...JMHO...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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Thanks, Dave. I was thinking maybe a freeze plug. I'll check them and also check the crankcase oil regularly. It was really freaky as I'd been reading the other similar thread just before I drained the CA.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Lon(MN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Merrill Wi Points: 2033 |
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I have a C I use to cut grass. I crack the oil drain plug before I start it and drain a couple spoons full of antifreeze out each time. The oil never gets milky. Been that way for several years. I checked the top end and the problem is not there. Some day I will fix it but as long as the oil stays clean I count it as a dependable working tractor.
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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Before refilling the crankcase with oil, I pulled the drain plug again this morning to see if any antifreeze might have found its way to that spot. I saw none. Decided that checking the freeze plugs would be a good idea. I've never had the valve cover off in all the years I've owned this tractor, but, hey - it can't be that hard, right?
I pulled the hood and removed the four nuts securing the valve cover. These came off without much trouble. This is where the good news ended. The cover apparently is sealed to the block with some sort of RTV-like goop. It does NOT want to separate from the block at all. I need to come up with a way of removing the cover that won't distort the mating surface. Would gently heating the cover where it mates to the block be okay? Other ideas? Thanks! Dave
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Alberta Phil ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Alberta, Canada Points: 3919 |
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Often a couple of good raps with a rubber hammer on the top edge of the cover will loosen it up. Just don't hit it hard enough to dent the cover!
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Alex09(WI) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1749 |
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check the 4 studs that the 4 nuts screw onto to hold the valve cover down. Usually there are reminants of the rubber sealing washers squashed between the stud and the valve cover. Remove those and the valve cover should lift right off.
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chaskaduo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5200 |
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Check your valve lash or clearance while you have the cover off. plenty of how to on here or if you have a manual.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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Reporting back...first, thanks for the suggestions. Good news is that the cover came off. Used heat gun to soften the goop. Gave cover a few raps with my trusty rubber mallet, pried gently on the cover in a couple of spots and it came off.
There was some mixed oil and water under the cover - betting that it's from water vapor condensing inside the cover and mixing with the oil. Cleaned that out and checked the freeze plugs. Slight amount of corrosion in two of them - surface rust. Otherwise all three are pristine. No signs of any antifreeze anywhere in that area. I did check valve lash - all good. Reinstalled the cover, added oil and fired her up. Nothing leaking. Ran it a while trying to get it up to operating temperature. Temp maxed out at 170 degrees. Guess I'll have to work her harder to get into the green. So.......I still don't know the source of the antifreeze I found in the drain plug. I'll check it from time to time to see if it happens again. I suspect that the tricky part will be loosening the plug enough to get a little liquid out without dumping all the oil. If the rain stops tomorrow, my plan is to plow up some turf and give the old girl a good workout. Thanks again. Dave
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 54090 |
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All you have to do is get the drain plug loose, in the threads, once its loose enough to hand turn, barely, take a white paper towel, and put over your hand, as you loosen, and jiggle the plug, a little. Oil floats on AF, so it will be in the bottom. You may need to jack up the tractor at one end or the other, so the AF goes toward the drain hole. If the tractor is in good shape, otherwise, and you want to pro-active, flush radiator and cooling system a coupla times, then use Blue Devil, or any other block sealer that contains sodium silicate(water glass). Be sure to follow the directions, on the can, may include removing the thermostat. Water glass seeks out hot spots, and leaks, and seals, as it gets cooler. If it was mine, I'd pop out all the FP's, and invest the buck or so in new ones(any good auto parts store should be able to get them by size). All it takes to get them out easy, is to drill a small hole, then screw in a dent puller, and knock them out.
![]() Here's a video on Blue Devil. Note that it ultimately only lasted a year, on the car, in question. I have had it last for years, to coat porous tractor blocks, and small cracks in blocks or heads. [TUBE]kEji3vG9DAM[/TUBE] Edited by DiyDave - 22 Apr 2019 at 6:11pm |
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beard66 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Location: southern il Points: 45 |
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I've got a farmall c that would get a little antifreeze in the oil while sitting over winter.I drained the oil in the spring before I started it every year and never had anymore problems during the warm months while mowing. I finally rebuilt the engine a couple years ago and had a sleeve o ring that was leaking a little when it was cold weather.
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Dave(inMA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399 |
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Dave - I'll try the sealer approach if I'm still seeing coolant at the drain plug. Could be a good solution - thanks for suggesting it.
Beard66 - interesting point. Could be what's happening in my case. Thanks!
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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