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Like I need another project |
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 10:38pm |
Once the machine is running and the blade back on, why not just push it into a pile of dirt and see what happens?
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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jebbesen
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Mar 2019 Location: MN Points: 2 |
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I thought I had a better picture of the rear cylinder mounts. Here's the best I can find right now. I made them out of 1" plate and burned them on in place of the turnbuckle mounts. |
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jebbesen
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Mar 2019 Location: MN Points: 2 |
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I have a similar blade that doesn't angle on my 7. Sorry the first picture is so large. It was taken quite a few years ago when I found it on a prehistoric digital camera. I thought you might like to see how I reworked it for power tilt. The lines are crisscrossed between rear cylinders and the valves. It works great. |
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 50664 |
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No, I don't mean blow it up, you'd need a couple partial sticks, placed properly, tamped properly. might come out bubbly lookin, if the rust behind the bulge isn't removed, first...
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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There is an explosive metal forming technique used for building boats and space vehicles. A sheet of metal is placed over a die (often made of concrete) and an explosive is used to force the metal into the shape of the die. There are variations but this is often done under water.
Or did you mean that I should blow the whole thing up? |
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DiyDave
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 50664 |
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A good dynamite man could get the curve back to where its supposed to be, but those days are long...
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29713 |
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As to the blade, by the time you spend on trying to salvage the face you may as well have cut it away and replaced it. A daunting task yes but well worth it in the end. Any luck on removing the Gimmy from the frame yet? Having a engine/machine shop fit new sleeves may be your best bet.
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jerbob
Orange Level Joined: 07 Aug 2017 Location: Michigan Points: 961 |
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Thanks D. I use Vinegar currently for anything small enough to fit in a 5 gallon bucket. Slow but does break it loose. I have used a product called Metal Rescue. Very good product.
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29713 |
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Write on another forum, found that small parts as gears and shafts that will fit in a bucket in of all things Vinegar will remove the rust from them.
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 890 |
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How thick is the metal that has the bulge? You could nearly cut the bulged piece out with a grinder (being careful with the depth of the cut) then turn the piece inside out and weld it back in. I know it would still take some banging to get the right fit. Decent looking blade though.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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jerbob
Orange Level Joined: 07 Aug 2017 Location: Michigan Points: 961 |
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Could you say what the rust remover was you found?
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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I brought the Garwood angle blade home today
This blade is going to need a lot of work. There is a crack in the blade that allowed water to get trapped between 2 layers of the structure. Notice the bulge in the next picture. Any suggestions as to how to bend it back? I do not think my largest hammer is going to do it. |
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29713 |
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We used a spring loaded handle to lock into the air intake ports to use the pistons to drive the sleeves out. With rods unbolted should be easy enough to jack them out as are dry sleeves. When you replace them there are different sizes, the sleeves will need to be hone fitted to the block for a snug slip fit. Too tight will seize, too loose will rip them apart at the intake ports. Used to be able to get Std., .001, .005 and .010 oversize sleeves, then there was a secondary sizing of light or heavy as to any of these where each had a Detroit sizing stamp placed high or low or mid-position on the sleeve. Had to use a Sunnen style hone for accuracy, a deglazing hone will not cut square top to bottom.
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 890 |
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I would just pull pistons and liners out together, you're going to have to buy new ones to put in anyway. To make it easier just weld an eyelet or whatever inside the liner to be able to pull them up. Those liners can be in there really hard before they budge. On an old engine like that it can take an enormous amount of force to make them let go. Being that you are a smart machinist you can make a puller to lift them out.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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dustydoo
Bronze Level Joined: 22 Jan 2014 Location: erie pa Points: 91 |
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I was recently doing some body work on one of my pickups. I went to the local autobody supply shop to get some supplies ! I found a rust remover and though I would try it ! Granted this a lot lighter material but I would have no problem trying this on a cast iron engine myself ! This is not the type of stuff that Tractor supply sells . Or that turns rust black ,it is an acid that actually ate the rust ??? I found I have a lot less sheet metal than I thought I had !!!
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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Yes it could help and in mind time the blower bearings are maybe freese too
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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The motor stopped with both pistons mid stroke. I put Kroil in the cylinders over the winter. I have been trying to adjust the piston position in the bores using a piece of oak turned to piston diameter and my 8 pound hammer. broke the oak, pistons still at mid stroke. Took both rod caps off, good oil, bearings look very good. Advise please. Should I open the air box and remove the blower to lubricate the pistons thru the air holes?
It took me over an hour to remove the con rod cotter pins because the crank was in a bad position. I don't like cotter pins. |
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HD6GTOM
Orange Level Joined: 30 Nov 2009 Location: MADISON CO IA Points: 6627 |
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Don't give up on the old gal. I have owned several HD 6's and sometimes it takes a lot of patience and bad words to get the job done.
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 890 |
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Oh boy...there is nothing easy about this job. Hats off for how far you have come!!
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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I have been trying to get the steering clutch for almost a month. I tried hitting it with my 8 pound hammer but it wasn't moving. I put it in my arbor press and every few days I would reposition it and push some more. Today the hub and clutch stack came loose from the drum.
Note the spline part of the frictions are in the drum spline. I was pushing on the pressure plate. what was a flat pressure plate is now bent conical. If anyone has a pressure plate p/n 050218 send me a pm |
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Ray54
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4370 |
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I have always used the brake band when working on Caterpillar stuff. As that is Cats recommendation in there book. Thanks for all pictures of the process and progress. |
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darrel in ND
Orange Level Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Hebron, ND Points: 8592 |
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Man, what a familiar looking project. I started mine 2 years ago and still is not done. Perhaps when you finish yours, and have everything all fresh in your memory, you'd like to do another one. Darrel
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orangeman
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 1696 |
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Dozer - Excellent progress on the steering clutch. That's a nice carrier you made to pull the clutch - what components comprise the carrier?
Orangeman
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JohnCO
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niwot Colo Points: 8992 |
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Success! Congratulations!
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"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 890 |
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Congratulations on your progress! Makes one feel hopeful of getting somewhere with a project.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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I have been working on removing the steering clutch trying to push the clutch pack into the drum using (3) hydraulic cylinders. I used about 1/2 gallon of "KROIL" and moved the hydraulic cylinders to a new position every few days. I bought another pressure gage and measured the pressure from my porta power while using a pipe extension on the handle. 8,000 psi translates to 14,000# at the hydraulic cylinders. This exceeded the working pressure of the quick disconnects I was using. I broke 2 of them. Today the steering clutch came out.
I had to grind off part of the fender near the battery box to get it out. When it was out I was able to see why it was so difficult and took so long. The trunnion pins on the yoke came out so the fingers on the throughout bearing were not retracting. I was unable to see this while the steering clutch was in place. |
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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Coke thanks for the PM
I have removed the front floor plate so that I can get to the nut holding the fender at the rear. At the front of the fender is one of the two original bolts. X marks the location on the picture. I can get to the nut but the bolt is under the Garwood hard nose. I understand why mechanics do not put the fender back once removed |
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dadsdozerhd5b
Orange Level Joined: 27 Sep 2009 Location: lansdale pa. Points: 527 |
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Garwood dozer fronts are hard to get around. should be able to get the starter motor out without removing it. will it come out the bottom? that engine is relatively easy to pull, might be a better option then you can get to everything and clean the dozer properly.
on the steering clutch, I know from the ones I had to cut out that the inner most discs were holding it in place. keep the pressure on the rams and whack the drum with a sledge or air hammer or both to try to loosen the rust. rotate around and repeat. may not hurt to flood the compartment with diesel or penetrant to help loosen it. keep us posted. |
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HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 890 |
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Put a bit of heat from the bottom to the glue seal along the row of bolts. A propane torch is enough to soften the glue. For deeper pans it helps to whack them from the side with a rubber mallet but that Detroit pan is kind of shallow for that to be effective.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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I'm working on removing the 2-71 oil pan. I broke my 1 1/4 socket trying to remove the oil pan plug. Removed it with a 3/4 drive socket. I looked at the rods and crankshaft with a fiber optic camera thru the oil pan plug hole. The oil pan gasket is glued on. Normally I would start in a corner with a sharp chisel to pry it loose. My efforts are damaging the oil pan and the block. Suggestions ? I made an adapter to my slide hammer for the oil pan plug thread It still won't move. Help
Can anyone send me a picture from a parts book of the left front fender? It may be different for the Garwood dozer. I want to remove the starter motor hopefully without removing the Garwood hydraulic system. This project is fighting back |
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