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Like I need another project

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JohnCO View Drop Down
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Like I need another project
    Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 10:38pm
Once the machine is running and the blade back on, why not just push it into a pile of dirt and see what happens?
"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Joined: 12 Mar 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jebbesen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 2:33pm

I thought I had a better picture of the rear cylinder mounts.  Here's the best I can find right now.  I made them out of 1" plate and burned them on in place of the turnbuckle mounts.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jebbesen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 2019 at 2:27pm
I have a similar blade that doesn't angle on my 7.  Sorry the first picture is so large.  It was taken quite a few years ago when I found it on a prehistoric digital camera.  I thought you might like to see how I reworked it for power tilt.  The lines are crisscrossed between rear cylinders and the valves.  It works great.



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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Oct 2017 at 4:59am
No, I don't mean blow it up, you'd need a couple partial sticks, placed properly, tamped properly. might come out bubbly lookin, if the rust behind the bulge isn't removed, first...
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Dozer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2017 at 11:04pm
There is an explosive metal forming technique used for building boats and space vehicles. A sheet of metal is placed over a die (often made of concrete) and an explosive is used to force the metal into the shape of the die. There are variations but this is often done under water.

Or did you mean that I should blow the whole thing up?
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DiyDave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2017 at 7:10pm
A good dynamite man could get the curve back to where its supposed to be, but those days are long...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2017 at 8:23am
As to the blade, by the time you spend on trying to salvage the face you may as well have cut it away and replaced it. A daunting task yes but well worth it in the end. Any luck on removing the Gimmy from the frame yet? Having a engine/machine shop fit new sleeves may be your best bet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2017 at 8:22am
Thanks D. I use Vinegar currently for anything small enough to fit in a 5 gallon bucket. Slow but does break it loose. I have used a product called Metal Rescue. Very good product.
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Oct 2017 at 7:25am
Write on another forum, found that small parts as gears and shafts that will fit in a bucket in of all things Vinegar will remove the rust from them.
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 8:58pm
How thick is the metal that has the bulge? You could nearly cut the bulged piece out with a grinder (being careful with the depth of the cut) then turn the piece inside out and weld it back in. I know it would still take some banging to get the right fit. Decent looking blade though.
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jerbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 6:56pm
Could you say what the rust remover was you found?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct 2017 at 6:15pm
I brought the Garwood angle blade home today

This blade is going to need a lot of work. There is a crack in the blade that allowed water to get trapped between 2 layers of the structure. Notice the bulge in the next picture. Any suggestions as to how to bend it back? I do not think my largest hammer is going to do it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 5:17am
We used a spring loaded handle to lock into the air intake ports to use the pistons to drive the sleeves out. With rods unbolted should be easy enough to jack them out as are dry sleeves. When you replace them there are different sizes, the sleeves will need to be hone fitted to the block for a snug slip fit. Too tight will seize, too loose will rip them apart at the intake ports. Used to be able to get Std., .001, .005 and .010 oversize sleeves, then there was a secondary sizing of light or heavy as to any of these where each had a Detroit sizing stamp placed high or low or mid-position on the sleeve. Had to use a Sunnen style hone for accuracy, a deglazing hone will not cut square top to bottom.
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jul 2017 at 10:04pm
I would just pull pistons and liners out together, you're going to have to buy new ones to put in anyway. To make it easier just weld an eyelet or whatever inside the liner to  be able to pull them up. Those liners can be in there really hard before they budge. On an old engine like that it can take an enormous amount of force to make them let go. Being that you are a smart machinist you can make a puller to lift them out.
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dustydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 8:04pm
I was recently doing some body work on one of my pickups. I went to the local autobody supply shop to get some supplies ! I found a rust remover and though I would try it ! Granted this a lot lighter material but I would have no problem trying this on a cast iron engine myself ! This is not the type of stuff that Tractor supply sells . Or that turns rust black ,it is an acid that actually ate the rust ???  I found I have a lot less sheet metal than I thought I had !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gemdozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 6:46pm
Yes it could help and in mind time the blower bearings are maybe freese too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jul 2017 at 6:10pm
The motor stopped with both pistons mid stroke. I put Kroil in the cylinders over the winter. I have been trying to adjust the piston position in the bores using a piece of oak turned to piston diameter and my 8 pound hammer. broke the oak, pistons still at mid stroke. Took both rod caps off, good oil, bearings look very good. Advise please. Should I open the air box and remove the blower to lubricate the pistons thru the air holes?

It took me over an hour to remove the con rod cotter pins because the crank was in a bad position. I don't like cotter pins.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 8:58pm
Don't give up on the old gal. I have owned several HD 6's and sometimes it takes a lot of patience and bad words to get the job done.
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Eric B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 6:06pm
Oh boy...there is nothing easy about this job. Hats off for how far you have come!!
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Nov 2016 at 4:34pm
I have been trying to get the steering clutch for almost a month. I tried hitting it with my 8 pound hammer but it wasn't moving. I put it in my arbor press and every few days I would reposition it and push some more. Today the hub and clutch stack came loose from the drum.

Note the spline part of the frictions are in the drum spline. I was pushing on the pressure plate. what was a flat pressure plate is now bent conical. If anyone has a pressure plate p/n 050218 send me a pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2016 at 12:56pm
Originally posted by orangeman orangeman wrote:

Dozer - Excellent progress on the steering clutch.  That's a nice carrier you made to pull the clutch  - what components comprise the carrier?

Orangeman


I have always used the brake band when working on Caterpillar stuff. As that is Cats recommendation in there book.

Thanks for all pictures of the process and progress.
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darrel in ND View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote darrel in ND Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2016 at 6:43am
Man, what a familiar looking project. I started mine 2 years ago and still is not done. Perhaps when you finish yours, and have everything all fresh in your memory, you'd like to do another one. Darrel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote orangeman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2016 at 5:59am
Dozer - Excellent progress on the steering clutch.  That's a nice carrier you made to pull the clutch  - what components comprise the carrier?

Orangeman
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JohnCO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Oct 2016 at 12:40am
Success!  Congratulations!

"If at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2016 at 9:53pm
Congratulations on your progress! Clap Makes one feel hopeful of getting somewhere with a project. 
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2016 at 5:50pm
I have been working on removing the steering clutch trying to push the clutch pack into the drum using (3) hydraulic cylinders. I used about 1/2 gallon of "KROIL" and moved the hydraulic cylinders to a new position every few days. I bought another pressure gage and measured the pressure from my porta power while using a pipe extension on the handle. 8,000 psi translates to 14,000# at the hydraulic cylinders. This exceeded the working pressure of the quick disconnects I was using. I broke 2 of them. Today the steering clutch came out.

I had to grind off part of the fender near the battery box to get it out. When it was out I was able to see why it was so difficult and took so long. The trunnion pins on the yoke came out so the fingers on the throughout bearing were not retracting. I was unable to see this while the steering clutch was in place.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Sep 2016 at 11:41am
Coke thanks for the PM
I have removed the front floor plate so that I can get to the nut holding the fender at the rear. At the front of the fender is one of the two original bolts. X marks the location on the picture.
I can get to the nut but the bolt is under the Garwood hard nose. I understand why mechanics do not put the fender back once removed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dadsdozerhd5b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 7:15pm
Garwood dozer fronts are hard to get around. should be able to get the starter motor out without removing it. will it come out the bottom? that engine is relatively easy to pull, might be a better option then you can get to everything and clean the dozer properly.
on the steering clutch, I know from the ones I had to cut out that the inner most discs were holding it in place. keep the pressure on the rams and whack the drum with a sledge or air hammer or both to try to loosen the rust. rotate around and repeat. may not hurt to flood the compartment with diesel or penetrant to help loosen it. keep us posted.
HD5B, HD5G, (2) FARMALL A's, CUB. DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IGNORE THE LAUGHTER. FLANNEL IS ALWAYS IN STYLE.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 4:01pm
Put a bit of heat from the bottom to the glue seal along the row of bolts. A propane torch is enough to soften the glue. For deeper pans it helps to whack them from the side with a rubber mallet but that Detroit pan is kind of shallow for that to be effective.
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep 2016 at 3:37pm
I'm working on removing the 2-71 oil pan. I broke my 1 1/4 socket trying to remove the oil pan plug. Removed it with a 3/4 drive socket. I looked at the rods and crankshaft with a fiber optic camera thru the oil pan plug hole. The oil pan gasket is glued on. Normally I would start in a corner with a sharp chisel to pry it loose. My efforts are damaging the oil pan and the block. Suggestions ? I made an adapter to my slide hammer for the oil pan plug thread It still won't move. Help

Can anyone send me a picture from a parts book of the left front fender? It may be different for the Garwood dozer. I want to remove the starter motor hopefully without removing the Garwood hydraulic system. This project is fighting back
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