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Kansasbert 
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Joined: 30 Jul 2010
Location: Kansas
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 Topic: New D17 Owner
Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 11:04am |
I just joined the forum as I only yesterday bought my first tractor. A D17 series 1 gas, I bought the tractor on ebay and thus far am happy with it. This is the first Allis I have ever operated, I have ran IH, Massey, John Deer, Ford, Stiegert in the past but never an Allis. I got the tractor primarily to feed round baled hay to my cows in the winter, but plan to use it to mow, rake and square bale as well as run a bush hog and post hole auger.
I do have a few questions about the tractor I was hoping someone or someones on the forum could help me with. First, where is the hydralic control located? There is a black knob under the steering wheel that is a pull / push type rod, I assume this is the hydro controler? Secondly there is a adjustment on the stearing column next to the three point lever that says something about "traction booster" I wonder what this lever does and the proper way to operate it. Finally the brake pedals seem so far from the opertors seat that a 7' tall man would need to reach for them, I wonder if there is a way to adjust the pedals back closer to the operator.
Thanks guys in advance for your time and responses- Rob
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 11:23am |
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Welcome to the best tractor site on the web. I have never owned a D17, but it sounds like you picked a good tractor for the work you want to do.
The hydraulics are controlled by the traction boost lever and the other lever(three point lever)on the left side of the steering wheel.Someone more familiar with the 17 might help more but if it is an early series the lift arms are connected to the same hydraulic valve as remote connection I think.
You must have the seat in the rear or extended position. Lift the seat up and it will rotate forward and down to the normal seating position. Good luck with an all around handy chore tractor.
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Jim Hancock
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 11:24am |
Hi KB and welcome tothe forum.
The push/pull is the brake lock to set the brakes together when parked.
The hydraulic lever is on the left side of the column closest to the steering wheel and the one underneath that that says traction booster and has the notches controls the draft of the load when plowing and discing and anything else hooked to the hydraulics or drawbar or lift arms. This lever needs to be all the way down in order to lower the arms as low as possible.
Next, the seat: lift the back of it up and see if it will pivot forward or back. Sounds like it is in the "back" position to allow you to stand. If it's forward, the gearshift lever next to the front edge of it, or within a few inches or so. HTH. Jim
BTW, Where in Kansas are you? I lived in Coffeyville from 77 to 88.
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Jim Hancock
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Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 11:40am |
Hi again Rob.
I forgot to ask if it is a wide front or narrow front? Don't know if you've used a spinner knob or not on the others, but it is very useful to help steer when you use the power director to feather a movement and need to steer at the same time.
I ran a D17 for years mowing, raking and baling hay, plowing and discing and planting ground.
Like Charlie said, a very good all around tractor.
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 12:14pm |
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Jim - isn't the TB lever with the notches the one on top closest to the back of the steering wheel and the hydraulics the one underneath that closer to the gas tank?
Rob - also on the seat, if you look at the base you should see 3 sets of mounting holes for you to move the entire mechanism forward or back by taking out the bolts and changing mounting holes.
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Jim Hancock
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Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 12:38pm |
Yes you are right, Mike. I can visualize it but still got them backwards.
I remember adjusting the TB lever up a notch or two to set it while discing so that when I came to the headland, all I had to do was to flip the lower lever out of the bottom hole to let it "float" in the middle and the disc would raise just enough to lighten the draft while making the turn and then pull it back down in the hole to lower the disc at the preset depth.
Ahhhh.......them were the days following dad on the XT with 5 16's and lapping the plowed ground half and have the field disced twice when done. Talk about a sweet sound of the 17 pulling a 16' finishing disc.
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Kansasbert
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Joined: 30 Jul 2010
Location: Kansas
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 2:24pm |
Thanks guys for the reply. The tractor I bought does have a wide front end. Im going to take a look at the seat tonight, I figured there was some sort of adjustment, thanks for the tips.
Also thanks for the info on the hydro control. The lever was labeled traction control and I guessed it had to do with some sort of positrac rearend, the draft hydro makes much more sense.
Again, thanks fellas for your help. One more question for you'll for now. Anybody pull a rotary mower or bush hog with a D17 much. I thought of pulling both, but was curious if a rotary type mower would continue to drive the tractor ahead after engaging the clutch. I have ran both a farmall H and M that would continue to drive ahead quite a ways after clutching from the torque of the mower. Just wondered if the D17, being a bigger tractor will have that issue.
Thanks - Rob
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Skyhighballoon(MO)
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 2:43pm |
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Rob - I run an Allis 172 mower behind my D17 Series III. The Allis mower has a built in overrunning clutch which means it doesn't push the tractor ahead in any circumstances.
If you don't have an overrunning clutch it will drive the tractor forward if you use the foot clutch. If you use the power director hand clutch instead, it breaks the drive train between the PTO engagement and the transmission so it will not drive the tractor forward. You could also add an aftermarket overrunning clutch very easily.
On the traction booster lever, that lever sets the sensitivity of snap copuler/lift arm draft control when using a snap coupler implement. Depending on what style of 3 point conversion you have on you D17, it may not work unless the lift arms pull on the snap coupler hook. D17's don't have a differential lock or any kind of posi-traction feature.
HTH. Mike
Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 30 Jul 2010 at 2:43pm
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330
1969 180 gas
1965 D17 S-IV gas
1963 D17 S-III gas
1956 WD45 gas NF PS
1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin
303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers
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Jim Hancock
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Location: EL Reno, Ok.
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 2:54pm |
Hi Rob.
It would be a lot safer to have the overriding clutch than to think that you wouldn't have to have it on there if you ever needed to hit the foot clutch and brakes at the same time only to find out that you should've had one.
John Donaldson uses his without one as he pays attention and just grabs the power director,(big stick), and yanks back to neutral and hits the brakes and says that he can stop without the momentum carrying him like in a WD or Wd45.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 5:17pm |
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If you use the hand clutch on the WD or 45 it's just like using the Power director on the 17. You won't get pushed around. I mow with mine with a JD Gyramor mower.
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Pat the Plumber CIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Springfield,Il
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Posted: 30 Jul 2010 at 10:43pm |
Rob Welcome to the site.I have 2 D-17's that I bushhog with.A 6 foot mower is a good size.The hand clutch on the right side(Power Director)Hi;FORWARD NEUTRAL;MIDDLE LOW;BACK controls power to rear wheels only.PTO is seperate so when hand clutch is in neutral the PTO will keep spinning and not push tractor forward.Some D-17's want to creep with the hand clutch in neutral.Run a bush hog for a couple hours and work the hand cluch back and forth and neutral stops creeping.The D-17 is one of the best all around tractors ever madeGood luck and keep us posted.Post some pics. if possible.
Here is pics of my 64 D-17
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You only need to know 3 things to be a plumber;Crap rolls down hill,Hot is on the left and Don't bite your fingernails
1964 D-17 SIV 3 Pt.WF,1964 D-15 Ser II 3pt.WF ,1960 D-17 SI NF,1956 WD 45 WF.
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red_farmall
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Location: massachusetts
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 3:18pm |
im also a new member, i dont own any AC's but i am looking at a d17 on monday. can you use the hi low lever as a clutch? (start your PTO with the foot clutch, have teh lever in N and shift into low without clutching) also any general info on what i should look at on this tractor. these are the pics the guy sent me. i thought for 1750 you cant go wrong (it seems like a good step up from a farmall h and a ford 600 for haying) thanks, Nate
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red_farmall
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 3:22pm |
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red_farmall
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 3:24pm |
 
sorry, here are the pics
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CTuckerNWIL
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Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 6:31pm |
 red_farmall wrote:
Can you use the hi low lever as a clutch? (start your PTO with the foot clutch, have teh lever in N and shift into low without clutching) also any general info on what i should look at on this tractor. |
Yes and if you can test drive the tractor, drive down hill in all gears at high idle and throttle it back to make sure it doesn't pop out of gear. 3rd and 4th were the most common because they get used the most. Always stop your wheels completely before shifting and if it is in neutral, push the clutch in and let the flywheel stop before shifting into gear. Check the back rims for rust around the valve stems. rear rims are pricey but not as bad as rear tires. 1750 for that tractor looks like a good deal if it doesn't pop out of gear.
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red_farmall
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 7:36pm |
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ok, thanks, so you can clutch and go into say 2nd, then put the hi low shifter in N, let out the foot clutch, and move the lever into hi or low without clutching?
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Chalmersbob
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Posted: 11 Jun 2011 at 8:48pm |
That is correct, Red. Some people shift gears using the power director, but I don't do it.
Bob
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Dave in il
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Posted: 12 Jun 2011 at 8:43am |
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A D17 does not need an overrunning clutch for the PTO. I have wore out 3 or 4 six foot Woods mowers, mowing hundreds of miles of road ditches, waterways, etc.
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DSeries4
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Posted: 12 Jun 2011 at 9:25am |
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An overrunning clutch is very helpful when changing directions from forward to reverse. I use one on mine - makes life much easier.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 12 Jun 2011 at 12:21pm |
I did quite a lot of bush hogging last year with my D-17 (Series II). I have only a 5 footer which was just right for heavy mowing with my WD.
I'm confidant that I could run a 6 footer without a problem with the D-17.
I find that the overrunning clutch makes things a little easier altho, as has been said, it is not an absolute necessity if you use the power director clutch to stop and go.
Interestingly, as someone else also said, the quickest and easiest way to shift gears is to use the power director (hand) clutch.
If you don't "tarry" while shifting, it works very well.
Altho others have said they shift gears using the hand clutch on their WDs and WD-45s, I was never able to make it work well on either my WD or WD-45.
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red_farmall
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Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 7:05pm |
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well, i bought the d17. put a deposit on it today. we settled on 1650. looked pretty good, its not pretty but for a workhorse its just fine. thank you all for your advice.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 8:14pm |
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Looks like you'll always have shade to sit in. Good luck with it.
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