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Gleaner L2 head feeding troublle |
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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Posted: 04 Oct 2017 at 9:49pm |
I know it has been discussed a lot but I have had an 82 L2 with 318 head and I am having feeding trouble.
The combine is a beast and I have it tuned well but ever since we have had it I have had trouble feeding beans. It wants to slug and plug the feeder beater. I have all eight springs in the clutch and adjusted between 1/4 and 5/16" as the book says It does well in good dry beans but two days ago we had a good dry day and no dew over night. Rain was in the forecast the next night so I took a vacation day to cut beans. It was overcast all day and The beans were 11% but the stems and pods had some moisture in them and would build up on the cutterbar and slug the feeder beater. It wasn't bad on the outside rounds but in the taller beans in the middle they would be so heavy I couldn't clean it out without dropping the header Problem is the neighbor has been helping with his 1620 and 15' head because he would rather run his than our F2. He was able to run while I sat plugged up. I rode with him a couple round while he was cutting and the beans just fell in nice and even. I know if my head would feed like his I would have been walking right along beside him. I have been looking at R52's but if the heads don't feed any better than I think I'm going to a 1680. I think the gleaner is a superior combine but if the heads won't feed it doesn't matter. I am so discouraged. It was embarrising having a bigger combine and sitting watching with the landlord while the help kept running. I'm going to get some 3" suction pipe this week and bolt it behind the sickle. I have belt paddles bolted to the reel does anyone have any other suggestions. I'm so disgusted that I'm thinking of going red. Edited by wekracer - 04 Oct 2017 at 10:03pm |
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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To add to it. We have been running side by side for 5 days and he has never once stopped with plugging and I bet I've stopped 20 times to unplug my feeder beater. It's so bad my wife won't let me touch her during harvest cause my hands are So rough from pulling beans out of the feeder beater.
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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First thing, cylinder bars. If cylinder bars are worn, beater will over feed cylinder. Next cylinder belt, if it is worn out, it slows cylinder while beater over feeds cylinder.
Fighting on header auger. Use a square on fighting. It should lean toward center of head. Is auger as low as it will go without hitting bottom of pan? Is it as far back as possible with out hitting back stripper? Is feederbeater up as far as possible? If it is a full range cylinder speed, take torque sincere apart and clean up then grease it good. Grease fitting on outer dial. Of shelve. Most likely the beater is not the problem. MACK |
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dawntreader74
Orange Level Joined: 28 Oct 2013 Location: Manteno Points: 1767 |
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mite haft to slow down the head a little bit' sure helped it tuff stem beans for me.
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tbran
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3285 |
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the suction hose helps - it is an old Deere trick used in Ar. tuff conditions. Most important feeding issue on 300 heads is to get the reel back as close to the auger as possible. We used to run them with the tines almost ticking the auger flighting.
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13611 |
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are you combining with the rows? try cutting the bean rows at an angle, along with the setting mentioned above.
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AC7060IL
Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3320 |
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Not your beaters problem. Like others have already said, your reel needs to assist beans into cross auger. If your reel is already set back to cross auger, then from the cab adjust it's proper height & speed?
This may seem against your better judgement, but try lowering your reel all the way in its down position(but not running in the dirt), then match its speed to what speed your sickle can cleanly cut. Reel should cleanly sweep across cutter bar also. Too high of a reel setting will tip plants into head, but will not force them into cross auger. |
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AC7060IL
Orange Level Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3320 |
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Use coconut oil to soften up your rough hands to keep the wife happy.
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cwhit
Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Sigel IL Points: 974 |
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And gloves. Use with the combine not the wife.
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GregStremel
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Aug 2013 Points: 81 |
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Just to throw an idea out there, check the timing of the feeder beater fingers.
I have an M. The feeder beater was adjusted according to the book. It plugged up something terrible. Finally I asked on this forum. Apparently, something was bent. The book said adjust the timing on the left side. I did according to what the book said. But the fingers did not retract when they were supposed to. Maybe someone can tell you at what point the fingers are supposed to be fully retracted. I do not remember. It made a tremendous difference. When it was not adjusted properly we would creep along and it would still plug. After the adjustment, we could go at a decent speed. This may not be your problem, but it is worth checking. |
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GregStremel
Bronze Level Joined: 06 Aug 2013 Points: 81 |
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Are the beans piling up at the cutter bar? If they pile up there and then come back as a slug, then you will have problems. As others have said, the suction hose bolted behind the cutterr bar help. We also added a Crary Wind System. It blows the soybeans back into the auger. After the problems I had earlier, it is really nice to have a smooth flow of soybeans in to the header.
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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Thanks for all the responses so far. The cylinder bares we're new wide spaced and hardened a couple years ago and I put a new belt on last year. In green stem beans it would slow down and stop. That's no fun pulling all that crap out the trap door. I'm certain that's not a problem now. I adjusted the beater up some last year but I will move it all the way this weekend. I will check the cross auger too. But most of the problem Is at the cutter bar. I have the reel as low as it will go without cutting off teeth and it is pretty far back. The way that header is made there seems to be a spot behind the sickle and in front of the auger that the reel can't reach. With the old hart carter on the F2 the sickle is much closer to the auger. The other issue that I have is if I move the reel up and back it won't pick up down beans like the old head. We used to have it set so that the metal tines would almost scrape the ground in front of the sickle and then feed them right into the cross auger. The neighbors 1620 was set the same way. We were on 15" rows running on a diagonal and I could see his reel picking up the beans his divider laid down the round before. Mine won't do that because the reel is too far back. Thanks for the help and forgive me if I'm ranting.
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SteveMaskey(MO)
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wellsville, MO Points: 593 |
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I also have a 318 head on a L3, it does not feed good either. Dad has a older M2 that feeds much better. If I could figure how to make the header control work I would put a green head on it
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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That is what I forgot to say in my first post. Put a JD head on it.
Header control is no problem to hook up. You will love it. MACK |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20190 |
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Feeder beater has to be UP ALL THE WAY. Reel has to be back as far as possible and fingers slightly tipped rearward. 3 inch hose will help. Short beans are your enemy. We used to bolt a mud flap to one reel bat over each row to give the beans a push.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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on our early R series headers we bought some sheets that bolt on right behind the sickle and step up and then a flat run into the auger. This lets the reel keep ahold of the beans until they are nearly in the auger instead of leaving a gap like the oe flex sheets. made a big difference in beans for us. we farm all dryland so short beans are pretty common out here in KS.
forgot to mention those bolt on feather sheets were from AGCO and recommended by our dealer
Edited by CAL(KS) - 05 Oct 2017 at 10:15am |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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Thanks for the input, I think I'm going to get some 3" hose, and give that a try. if it works I'm due for feather sheets and I will look into getting raised sheets. I guess if nobody makes them anymore I will look into having some bent. I am also running the reel paddles that shoupe sells. they work pretty good but weren't helping much that day.
As for the future, we have been looking at R52/62's. do they have the same issues? I know they have a feeder house instead of a beater but surely slugs would give them fits too. I understand the 500 series heads have the cutter bar moved back a couple inches. do they feed any better. I really like the simplicity of the gleaner compared to a Case but if I'm going to be fighting plugging like I do now then I think I might be leaning red. thanks and I will post updates after I make all the adjustments. we have rain in the forcast till Monday so it will be late next week at the soonest. |
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farmboy520
Orange Level Access Joined: 22 Jun 2016 Location: Beason, IL Points: 553 |
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I've got a R62 with a 520 head. I seem to have the same issues sometimes with the beans sitting right behind the sickle and before the auger. I've got the reel all the way down and back where it is almost touching the auger. It seems that it doesn't matter, tall or short and they will pile up there. Sometimes having the head really low on the header control makes them feed better and other times not. When I run the header that low though it seems like it likes to drag up more also.
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shameless dude
Orange Level Joined: 10 Apr 2017 Location: east NE Points: 13611 |
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I still have my 2 1440's for sale. very seldom any clump problems
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20190 |
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This advice is contrary to what most believe, but it works. Raise the header auger to 3/4" or a little more off of the floor after moving it FORWARD as far as the adjustment allows. This will mean adding a couple half-links to the drive chain. This only works for soybeans and will have to be changed back for cereal crops. John Keller from AGCO told me to try this 25 yrs ago and is helped tremendously. 500 series headers are much better than 300's for this feeding issue.
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20190 |
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You'll also have to move the reel forward to clear the auger after this change.
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critter
Silver Level Access Joined: 13 Nov 2013 Location: Ohio Points: 254 |
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What John Deere head works best for a L3? We currently have a 320 that doesn't feed very well and we are sick of it. Edited by critter - 05 Oct 2017 at 2:38pm |
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DrAllis
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20190 |
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Why don't you spend an hour and move the auger clear forward and up 3/4" inch or more?? You might be surprised what that will do in soybeans.
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Daehler
Orange Level Access Joined: 23 Nov 2010 Location: Lexington MO Points: 1153 |
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The beans a few days ago were not wanting to feed worth a darn and that was with a 630f deere head that my boss runs. The macdon draper he has wasnt working good at times either so i wouldnt feel bad about feeding issues. Ive grown up running a 318 head and at times its hard getting it to feed right especially in short beans. It normally doesnt have a problem in taller beans.
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8070FWA,7080 BlackBelly, 7045,2 200s,D19,D17,G, WD,45,UC,7 AC mowers and lots more!
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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The 900 series are a good head. 920-922 and ect. They are a simple head underneath. Don't have all the ball joints to ware out and brake. Just a much better head than Gleaner, and I have rebuilt a lot of Gleaner heads. MACK
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GM Guy
Orange Level Joined: 31 Jul 2012 Location: NW KS / S.C. ID Points: 1985 |
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Is the cylinder slowing down much? I am still wondering if you have issues on the torque sensing hub on the mainshaft.
Are you greasing both fittings? As far as trading machines, I dont see what a header issue has to do with the combine. Switch heads, keep the combine. Only after trying all other options given above to make the current header work. Believe me, I get to run 1400-2100 series IHs part time for a guy, and I am so happy to come home to the Gleaners. that unloader is a joke, the auger bed system is a joke, cleaning system is a joke, tyhe hydraulics and drivetrain are also quite pathetic. The a/c works good and they just plod along, and I get paid by the hour, so I dont complain (much) :) |
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
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grinder220
Orange Level Joined: 11 Jan 2012 Location: Clinton Iowa Points: 2342 |
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So what does 3 inch suction hose do for feeding? I've never heard of doing that.
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GM Guy
Orange Level Joined: 31 Jul 2012 Location: NW KS / S.C. ID Points: 1985 |
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You put it on the cutterbar in back of the sickle and it "trips" the stems of the beans and tries to lay it down on the pan and get it started under the auger. |
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
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wekracer
Orange Level Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Location: Tebbetts, MO Points: 1587 |
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OK, I picked up a piece of 3" suction hose and have a dozen 1 bolt clamps. I plan on putting one every 18"-2' and bolting it to guard bolts. my question is how to set the reel afterward. do I just raise it up or movie it forward and down. if it's the latter I think It would pick up laid over beans better but I can see where that might hurt the feeding as well. thanks in advance.
I also installed reel flaps from Shoup. Basically mud flaps that hang down 4" below the reel teeth.
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MACK
Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I would not move reel unless it hit your new tube.
I use 4" drain tile. A few short pieces of angle iron bolted to guard bolts and wired to gather. MACK |
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