How to bend exhaust tubing?

Exhaust pipe bender I the only way. It would be easier to buy the bends and weld or clamp them together.

that's what I do.. buy a 90 degree elbow and wire feed weld it as needed.

easier to get a orange tractor and be done with the N  

Muffler shop would make short order of that and could make you 2 or 3 pieces as a variant so you don't have to go back. We installed 60+ new tie stalls when we took out the original cement in a early 1900's built dairy barn with wooden stanchions growing up. Dad did not like the gauge of ready made stanchion materials at the time and with a little research, bought the pipe to his liking and had the local muffler shop bend them to form pretty quick.

Creston, you can fill the pipe with sand, then heat and bend it around a round object. You'll only have moderate success doing it this way though.

what you need is a slap up side the.....lol

CrestonM wrote: CAL(KS) wrote: easier to get a orange tractor and be done with the N   Nah  An 860 is what I need!

Nothing like jumping out the pan into the fire(LOL)

if your after function not form,you can heat inside of bend and make a wrinkle bend

creston, since your moving up you might as well find one with the SOS trans then you can maximize throughput and minimize loss by keeping the combine full at all times

Edited by CAL(KS) - 04 May 2017 at 8:17am

Correction CAL, that's POS transmission!

OK.... how about ADDING pipe to the end of the original pipe ? Something bent like a 'J' that slides onto the existing pipe and bolted to the tractor. Maybe a pipe clamp to hold it onto the tail pipe.

This way, after harvest, you can unbolt the 'extension' and hang up in barn until needed. the tractor would become 'normal' again.

Jay

If I read this right, you are wanting to put vertical exhaust on an 8n. Yesterday's tractors has the whole set up for $36 and change.

If you are wanting to go vertical at the end of the existing pipe....I got nothing. Maybe a piece of flex exhaust pipe?   I did that on a yard tractor once...worked fine.

Gerald J. wrote: The first versions of the POS transmission were really POS. Later versions SOS did work and survive. The chief engineer at Ford refused to sign off on the early versions because he thought they were junk. Cost him his job. He moved to Deere at Waterloo and was in charge of their Power Shift transmission for the 3020 and 4020 which have proven to be reliable transmissions. He worked at Deere until retirement many years later. Gerald J.

Yes, I've heard that before. How new did a Ford have to be to have a good one?

We had a Ford 6000 with that miserable POS transmission in it, and yes, it did fail miserably. One of many disasters with that tractor. The hydraulic system were never really right. We weren't the original owners, so I don't know if they were ever right, but assume they were OK as it rolled out the factory door. They were never right for us. The brakes had 2 modes: free and locked! Made the poor SOB on a hay wagon have some serious sea legs. The first time we went to use the 3 point, we lowered the arms, attached the brush hog, and raised the arms. About 1/2 way up, the tractor began to labor and nearly stalled. With the engine shut off for about 4 days, we could finally work the lever back and forth enough to lower the brush hog.

Boy, she was a beautiful running thing when it was working ok. Loved to chop corn with it, when the sos worked right, keep the flame coming about 3 inches out of the pipe! Had a bucket seat from a chevy vega bolted onto it because the original had rusted out!

Edited by Tbone95 - 04 May 2017 at 10:05am

8,9,2, has a bevaled flange on the manifold and you can buy all of the exhaust pipes for them cheap   so i think if it was me i would buy a 2 new manifold clamps  1 to repalce the one you cut off and one when you put it back to normal get a new header pipe muffler and tail pipe.then you will have a nice quit tight system when you put it back.     now take the old header pipe to the muffler shop  or a place that bend hyd.tubing because there benders wont wrinkle the tube, bend a 180 by the flange then weld a piece of 10ga. in center of the radius to keep it from bending  then a strap over to a head bolt, muffler on top with a turn out pointed forward 

1mathom1 wrote: If I read this right, you are wanting to put vertical exhaust on an 8n. Yesterday's tractors has the whole set up for $36 and change. If you are wanting to go vertical at the end of the existing pipe....I got nothing. Maybe a piece of flex exhaust pipe?   I did that on a yard tractor once...worked fine.