Pertronix Ignition Quit Again

Man I feel for you, though 3 of them ??Have  to admit if I used my D-14s more, I'd toss electronic ignitions in them , but nothing 'off the shelf'. I designed/built them 30-35 years ago and figured out how to bullet proof them. To me it's really sad the commercial ones can and do fail as electronic 'bits nd pieces' are a lot cheaper today than 3 decades ago.

Hopefully you'll stick with good old points for now ??

Jay

I've already did that with the last 2. I've turned 2 in on warranty and they covered it. I don't understand what is going on unless it's just junk parts.

I believe you're not supposed to use solid copper spark plug wires.
Hope I have better luck I just bought four of them.

I have stock 6 volt system on my WD45 and stock points as well. I use Mallory 8mm wires for the spark plugs. Works awesome. Starts in any temp with no block heater. Make up your own so length is correct. Very neat application.

    My question on pertronix is my coil runs so hot can't hold onto it. Seems to work ok is that normal? I have pertronix wires ,coil and the ign. system. checked voltage.   


                                 thanks Terry

I use to always say stay with points but after trying the electronic ignition there is a difference in the way it runs. I just gotta figure out why they keep burning up.
When I went to start it this morning to unload for plow day it cranked right up as usual. Let it run to warm up and it quit and wouldn't restart. Put my points back in and it fired up. Steve rebuilt my distributor.

Negative ground. All wiring and ignition switch are 3yrs old. Coil is correct ohm I checked it. What should I do to see if something is going on with ignition switch?

Edited by 79fordblake - 08 Apr 2017 at 9:38pm

We sell the "Ignitor" module kit, and that seems to work fine with most Solid Core wires, but here's the reason for some Ignitior units burning out. Leakage. Leakage from the spark plug wires themselves. Some say its from EMI blowing out the hall effect module. Its not. And, its greater when equipped with a higher volt coil. As spark plug wires "age" they can start leaking current out of them. This happens to the best plug wires out there on the market. Doesn't matter. Eventually, they fail. This current can actually "spike" the E.I. module taking it out. The reason is the current when leaked can find a ground path which causes a large voltage spike which can take out the module. Pertronix prefer's you not to use solid core wires because some of the failures are from "worn or aged" solid core spark plug wires from their testing, especially if you are using the "Ignitor II". That unit is quite a bit more sensitive and that should have suppression wires used with it always! As Chuck mentioned, Pertronix's tech line is great!

My suggestion is to inspect the spark plug wires carefully for any breaks in the jacket where current could expose itself causing the problem. I'm thinking you have a leak issue with the wires. They're 3 years old now, and being out in the elements on a Tractor increase the age two fold. Sun, moisture, heat, etc. I would either replace the spark plug wires with a new set of solid core wires or being its a Distributor fired unit, install a set of suppression wires to cut down or eliminate the spikes that could occur. This may eliminate your E.I. module issues all together. After all, those things aren't cheap, but they do last a looong time! The unit in my 6V model B is going on 18 years old now. I build the suppression style wire sets as well as the solid core versions. One other suggestion I would like to add is if you have a Distributor fired Tractor and the Spark Plug side of the wires does not have a boot, I suggest sliding boots over the plugs to keep any current from spiking off the plug to ground causing a high voltage spike. This also insures the plug terminal is covered and insulated. Its nice to have the OEM look, but its better to have the reliability! Your call there.....
Steve@B&B

I'll build a suppression set of wires for ya no charge Blake. Try em' out and see if it eliminates the problem. What model Tractor do you have? Was that a WD45? I don't remember... BTW, the ohm reading is a tick on the high side.  Should be 2.7-3.3.
Steve


Edited by Steve in NJ - 09 Apr 2017 at 8:35pm

Yes it's a WD45. The Pertronix instructions say 3ohm or more for 4 cylinder. The coil is only a couple months old. The tractor ran good the rest of the day. All I did was put points back in.

my one customer has the pertronics on his v4 wisconsins on his target concrete saws  they have copper wires and run hard many hours per day in all kinds of weather without ignition problems .    so this thread has really got me interested as to the problem because i just biult him anew engine and it has new copper wires and i was going to use the distrubutor with the pertronics out of the one i am replaceing

Three modules in less than a month (Petronix) for me was enough, went back to points.

The problem with the key switch is there are just a lot of junk ones sold out of china. I think the contacts are made for AC not DC. Big difference in cost of the contact pad material because of how DC wants to make a arc. I have had to toss a key switch which was only 6 months old because it would drop the voltage going across it and under voltage the pertronix kit. If the spade terminal on the switch is a little loose you can get voltage spikes ad it wiggles that cause trouble. I miss the old switches that had a screw holding the wire.

I have a switch and wires on the way from Steve. I ended up not messing with it this weekend. Maybe next week.