Allis 8050 engine build

Well guys, im goin to be posting up some pics of the new engine im putting together for our 8050. She's getting a brand new crank, A series Bosch injection pump, .078 injection lines, 5 hole injectors, Borg Warner s300 turbo and balanced rods and pistons.
I have to get the pics uploaded to photobucket later. Still waiting on the block and rods to get back from the machine shop.   
So just thought I'd start the build thread.

I'll start off with injector building.
All the cleaned and new parts.

I start off with machining out the end nut to the proper size to fit the bigger nozzle tip.

I then machine the tip to fit the head.

Here you can see the difference in the sizes.

They are now the same size tip as the old style allis injectors, don't want to make the nozzles to thin. I have this set up in three other tractors and its been working great.
I then relap the mating surfaces so they are flat and true. Here's the intermediate disc.

Here's the finished injector popped to 3800 PSI for the A-pump.


Only thing with these 5 hole tips is you need a different hold down and return line. I'll have to get a pic tomorrow of the hold downs and line kit. But here's a start on the build.

Nice pictures. Amazing how you do that work on the injectors

Good pics, keep them coming,enjoying your thread.

What causes a block to crack like that - age, overheating, tension stress (over-torqued) ?? 

Seeing that it had a different piston in number one and it wasn't the original head, my guess is that it dropped a valve at high RPM and she really jammed it up and over. It also had a older cam in it with the cam driven oil pump gear on it, plus all the lobes on the cam were flaked off... but who really knows. Only if the tractor could talk. Lol

calculates to 230 hp. Stock 8070 model 100 pump spec is 100cc, so 35% over on fuel delivery should be close to 35% more hp, at 229.5. Test injectors differ slightly, but we're talking estimates. You say set at 135cc at rated rpm of 2400? Are the injector hold downs from FVP?

Edited by injpumpEd - 25 Mar 2015 at 6:50am

Out of curiosity who puts the ends on your injection lines?

If you don't use a NEW damper on front of crank, you may have wasted alot of money on alot of new parts.   If you need some new big pin rods, I can make you a real good deal on a set.  MACK

Shoulda told me ya had new rods before Mack!! Lol just had these original ones rebushed.

No half of engine speed. Just like the old roosamaster. Need to put the idler gear and pump gear from a 7000 series engine.

No grinding on anything, just need to bore out the pump hole on the front plate to 85mm and weld the old holes shut. Then drill the 4 holes for the A-pump.

Ok guys get this, I had the front plate bored to the correct size and the holes welded shut. For some reason Allis had the pump hole for the ambac pump lower than the roosamaster. So when i went to put the pump gear on for mock up it rubs on the aluminum front cover ever so slightly... Just looking at the front plate you couldn't tell that it was lower. So I ordered a front plate from downing tractor parts to bore that one out and use. One could use the 8000 series plate if you would grind a bit on it to clear but I'd rather not do that for our tractor.

Here's a pic of a set of FVP injector hold downs with the return line on our 220.


The return line will look just like this but the hold downs that I will be using are just 3/8" thick steel cut with a water jet.

Edited by peterson - 26 Mar 2015 at 10:14am

O also guys, if your wanting to mount a A-pump on your tractor, get the adapter plate and hub from Mr. Kcgrain on this forum. He put Lotsa time into that adapter. I would have bought one from him for this but I had this drive hub along time. So figured I'd use it. He also has injection lines too.