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CA steering tube

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JW in MO View Drop Down
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    Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 7:59am
When I bought this CA the traction booster gauge was missing and the top of the steering tube is dented in pretty bad. This is a good working tractor and not a trailer queen. At the time I thought I could live with it but every time I crawl on it that is the first thing I notice. Can the tube or tube and shaft be replaced without replacing the whole steering box also? The tractor runs and steers just fine, the tube is dented and not bent so the degree of difficulty will determine my tolerance level.

Edited by JW in MO - 05 Sep 2016 at 8:01am
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 8:11am
I believe you can. Remove the steering wheel then remove the clamps holding the tube to the stand and to the steering box. I have used a length of electrical conduit (1 1/4"??) as a replacement tube; had to use a dremel to ream the ID some so as to install the steering shaft bushing
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Don(MO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 9:04am
I'd install a nice cup holder over the dent. lol
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Tom IA View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom IA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 9:08am
I have got a piece of pipe the proper size from a muffler shop
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Sep 2016 at 10:21am
I used electrical conduit to replace mine. It was cracked down by the gearbox cause Dad had a heat houser bracket from years ago and that was a handy place to grab to help get up on from the left front. That put a lot of stress on the tube over the years.
 The problem with the conduit is, it is galvanized and didn't hold paint very well. I found a  reamer at work and pushed it in to open the ends up. I would think a muffler shop would be the easiest way to go and have something that would hold paint better.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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