UPDATE ON THE 6060

So I bought this tractor from a "good old boy"  who assured me the PTO clutch worked, supposedly had it on a forage wagon.  Tractor is clean, 3900 hours and will need new rears.

If you do sell it, do you think the next tractor you buy will be any better than this one?  You need to ask yourself this question.  Did you take it somewhere to get a repair quote first?  I agree with Cal.  $2000 is crazy for splitting the tractor to replace the clutch and bearing.

  I agree; even our AGCO dealers wouldn't hook you that much and it would have a warrenty!

Doing business for 80 years! Good for you!

I just replaced a clutch on a 6070 for a fellow and the pressure plate alone was 1000 canucks and then you need throwout bearings and labor at 90-100/hour plus trucking (if thats involved in this deal) if theres a loader that adds time as well. If somebody told me in this day and age they'd split a tractor and change the clutch for 2 bills i'd jump at it quick.

I have to say I would think $2000 would be close, parts and labor.  Splitting is not bad at all on these units but the clutch parts can get high.  Last one I did I needed both release bearings, pilot bearing and trans front seals, did not need the clutch assembly(had a new A&I one with the tractor).  Came to around $400 from agco just for those parts.  I would have to agree with others though, if you are happy with everything else on the unit I would spend the 2 grand and you know what you have.  If you sell and buy another 30 plus year old one you could end up in the same situation or worse.

Call Rick at 636-488-5662 for clutch parts. Nobody can touch him on price and quality. He may be able to fix you up on trans. parts too. He's who I go to. He had the clutch and all the works for a Belarus that I put in three yrs' ago for a neighbor. He uses it to bale big bales with every year and I haven't had even to readjust it yet.

Leon, Give me some ideas how to un-stuck it?  Originally I thought the clutch arm was seized, but I have that moving and it still won't disengage.   

Pull starter go in with a bore scope

Here is a picture of the clutch.  You can see the starter hole in the upper right of the picture.  I don't think you could hit anything good with the penetrating oil from there.  As said before I have you could use a bore scope to angle it past and down from the clutch to get a look at things. 

I might add that if you can split it just far enough to get to it to loosen it up if you just have a moderate amount of experience you could do it yourself. You can change a tire can't you? That's enough experience. Plenty of good guys on here that can talk, er type you thru. it.

I really appreciate all the reply's and suggestions. Keep coming back to the same solution, split the tractor and I don't have a place to do it and I am too darn old anyway.

If it is rusted up ,then it dose need to come apart to get that rust off face of disc , or u will be splitting it later , pending . I understand why u do not want to split it, but there are times when things just need done . Good luck

Bill, you never get to old to turn bolts. I told my wife that if I come down with old timers just give me a nut and bolt and I'll set there happy as a clam thinking I'm overhauling a "B" or putting in a clutch or something. You never know you might have an old buddy that would enjoy helping you. Plus you could set there and have a cool whatever and discuss the vagaries of mice and men. I will admit that age is taking it's toll but dang it I'm going down scratchin" and kickin'.