Paint Issues

Enamel takes a long time to cure/dry. Hardner will help. My 190xtd was repainted I'm guessing in the 80's. When I was prepping the sheet metal the paint under the decals was still soft to the point I could almost scrape the paint off with a putty knife.
Don't know if it pertains to enamel paint or not but automotive paint can dry in the air before it even hits the surface your painting if you use a reducer that's too fast. Plus the reducer has to be compatible with the paint your using.
You might just have to use hardner and be patient. I used enamel and hardner for my tractor and you could handle the parts the next day if you were gentle. I would say it was cured/dry in about 2 weeks to a month, roughly.

With urethane enamel you have to use a harder. Without it I have no idea how long it will take to dry or how durable it will be when you're done. This one sounds like a big Oops.

Just out of curiosity, what did the directions say?

Edited by Play Farmer - 27 Jun 2016 at 5:14am

Matt; PF and Joe are right you must use hardner with that type of paint otherwise you have nothing. I am no expert on painting so when a project comes up I go to the paint store and explain what I am painting and go by there recommendations. On tractors there is also a third step in the process and that is to use a sealer on top of the primer before finish coat. When all goes right you should be able to handle painted items in a couple of hours. Not sure what you should do now.     Mark

  Dang Matt,,,I feel for you, Guy,,,, but tomorrows another day,,,
 Since it lookin like you gonna have to start over on your project,,,,and I DID miss the point on the primer,,Thanks Mark,,,,You should always use the Primer/Sealer Vs the primer then paint. Reason is that not all primers are created equal and some DO NOT "seal" the underlying old paint from the new paint goin on. Example is shootin a light colored paint over some old red paint that only has regular primer on it...The old red paint under that primer will most of the time "bleed thru" and will show up on your light colored paint,,,,!!!!!!!,,,,,,,but let's get you headed in the right direction.
  Actually,,I find most Primer/Sealers are cheaper than regular primers, although,,most have short "re-coat times" ,,,meaning,,you have to spray more P/S or the paint within a certain time frame,,or item will HAVE to "set" till primer is cured,,,then be re-sanded or scuffed before you can shoot more P/S or the actual paint. Keep that little tidbit in mind when you get ready to spray.
   I have no clue what XYLOL  is,,, but again, the urethanes being a 2 part system also require a special thinner or reducer to thin the paint for required viscosity and you should use what the paint mfgr. recommends. These dang paints nowadays cost TOO dang much to not use the right components to get  your equipment done right the first time.
  Hope this helps you and don't hesitate to ask more questions. Joe r


Edited by desertjoe - 27 Jun 2016 at 9:38am

Well, yeah Live and learn right...

Here is the short story of the paint.. I got 5 gallons of it for free... Just trying to use it.

As far as directions there is nothing on the pail. I talked to a friend of mine that owns a body shop and he was not too familiar with it but said it will dry but might take 5-7 days.   The next batch i am going to get some hardener and try that.
It has been really humid here lately so I am guessing that might effect it as well.

Play Farmer, jar loose from some of that cash you've hid out in a jar and buy you a Sata. You won't be using as much paint. Another reason to use a sealer is that it prevents die back. That's where your paint job looks beautiful, nice and shiny, and then in a few weeks turns dull and no amount of polish and elbow grease will make it shine again.

Acrylic urethane and hardener is like mixing the two parts of JB weld, without the hardener or "activator" as it's often called, the chemical reaction that causes the paint to stick and cure doesn't happen. You'll have to strip and start over.

IF U HAVE A GOOD CLEAN TIP RATTLE CANS DO A GREAT JOB WE USE THE TROW A WAY 3M TIPS ON OUR GUN JUST BHAVE TO KNOW WHEN ITS TIME FOR A NEW TIP AND  CHANGE THEM OUT

Some times when I read something like this I'll get a brain fxxt and all kinds of things come up I was wondering if a person would spray areal thin coat of hardiner on the paint if that would penetrate far enough to work? Has anyone tried it? I'll have to admit that I've tried some real off the wall stuff. Sometimes they worked  and I thought, boy how about that, and then other times they didn't and I'd tried to hide it before someone saw it.

There is a more than good chance that if you place any ole hardener in it and any ole amount  with any ole reducer that you will be doing over for the third time. How has lady luck been treating you lately??

All paint manufacturers have their "P" (product data) sheets on line where you can find out the proper ingredients and proper ratios. Also you need some PPE if your going to spray hardened paint. Been a while since I preached my warning on this subject but think a little wont hurt you? I have a dear friend who would love to tell you his story, and how he almost died after believing "a little bit wont hurt ya" 

And that's a fact!

Matt,
What ever happen did the paint dry?