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baverwolf 
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 Topic: Wd45 shifter end dimensions
Posted: 28 Jan 2016 at 5:24pm |
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I'm going to be rebuilding the shifter as it will slide out of where it's supposed to be and get stuck in two gears. Anyone have any dimensions as to what size the ball on the end is supposed to be?
Thanks!
Ben
Edited by baverwolf - 28 Jan 2016 at 6:05pm
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 28 Jan 2016 at 6:13pm |
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baverwolf
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Posted: 28 Jan 2016 at 6:31pm |
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Thanks!!!! That is EXACTLY what I was looking for!
Ben
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jkoby
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 8:48am |
Do I understand the drawing correctly?
The 0.530" "ball" should be when you are looking at the notch in the ball further up? The 0.315 is looking from the side of the notch?
*edited to make pictures easier to see.
Edited by jkoby - 12 May 2016 at 10:12am
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 5:06pm |
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Something doesn't look right, I haven't had one of these off in a year or so. Yours must be really worn. Must be a better picture somewhere. Are you going to weld this up and hand grind to shape?
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 6:19pm |
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That one looks used up!!
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littlemarv
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 6:23pm |
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My impression was the .530" is the widest part of the ball when viewed from the side, and the other one was the thickness when viewed from the back?
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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jkoby
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 7:35pm |
 littlemarv wrote:
My impression was the .530" is the widest part of the ball when viewed from the side, and the other one was the thickness when viewed from the back? |
What is considered the side and what is the back? lol
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jkoby
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 7:36pm |
Sugarmaker wrote:
Something doesn't look right, I haven't had one of these off in a year or so. Yours must be really worn. Must be a better picture somewhere. Are you going to weld this up and hand grind to shape?
Regards,
Chris
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That is what the plan is! Weld it up and then grind it down into the shape I am seeing online.
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jkoby
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 7:38pm |
SteveM C/IL wrote:
That one looks used up!! |
Think it may be too worn down to be saved?
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Dennis(IA)
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 8:41pm |
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I did one several years ago. I welded it then ground it down until it fit. I remember that I had a lot of rust on the shifter. I also could not get the shifter top back on the transmission until I put it in reverse. The guy I talked to said that he never heard of that, should be in neutral. Any one else have to do that?
Dennis
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jkoby
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 9:37pm |
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When mine has popped out, I just pull back on the hand clutch to get a feel for what gear I am in, and hunt in that area until I feel it slip in.
I have no problem doing that. But if somebody that doesn't know the tractor was to try and use it, the slipping lever becomes like an antitheft system. Only I know how to use it lol.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 11:32pm |
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Your added pics have it correct.The rounded part is forward/aft on lever.The .315 is sides.
Never too wore out to try.Won't cost you much more than time/effort.
The grooves are for location pins.They are on the sides.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 12 May 2016 at 11:36pm
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 12 May 2016 at 11:40pm |
jkoby wrote:
littlemarv wrote:
My impression was the .530" is the widest part of the ball when viewed from the side, and the other one was the thickness when viewed from the back? |
What is considered the side and what is the back? lol
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The flat sided part of the end is "THE SIDE"!!!
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littlemarv
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Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:28am |
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When I say front or side, I mean how it sits when installed on the tractor.....
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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HudCo
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Posted: 13 May 2016 at 8:56am |
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the guy has it right in the pictures . but that has to be the most wore out one i have ever seen think i would look for another shifter. that is almost going create a bad spot above the ball, to weld a complete ball on there. be alright if a guy can weld a bead and walks away till it cools each time
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Rltool
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Posted: 13 May 2016 at 12:10pm |
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The slots in the sides of the larger swivel ball may need to be welded in and worked back straight again also. You can get over sized square headed pins if yours are loose too.
Ray W.
Edited by Rltool - 13 May 2016 at 12:11pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 13 May 2016 at 1:57pm |
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I try to fix any thing I can on these too. A new shift lever is around $90 + ride. Someone might have a good used shift lever ?
Lots of parts tractors out there.
Have you taken the shifter out of the housing? The pictures look like its setting in something? Also As mentioned I have welded up the worn slots and also made custom key to tighten up these worn areas too.
I hate to ask but could you take two more pictures with solid background the stones make it hard to see the end. It look like the color is white or lighter color than the rest of the shaft. If it is worn as bad as I think I would be a little worried that what ever was welded on might brake off and be lodged in the tranny??
Regards,
Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 13 May 2016 at 3:39pm |
I did my WD-45 quite a few years ago before the size specs had been posted. I welded it up, then ground it 'til it fit......the old cut and try method. Assuming that the slots are also worn some, a little bigger might be prudent? I made new pins for the tower also. I drilled out the holes and used 5/16" grade 5 bolts also "ground to fit". Has worked great and no sign of new wear but I only use the tractor a few weeks a year to brush hog. I did my WD at about the same time. That one has only one tower pin. It also is still working great and that one gets used a lot. BTW, the shifter in the picture looks pretty rough!
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 14 May 2016 at 10:51am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
If it is worn as bad as I think I would be a little worried that what ever was welded on might brake off and be lodged in the tranny??
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As long as there is solid metal to weld to the whole bottom end could be wore off and welded back up.
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 30 Jul 2019 at 8:27am
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HudCo
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Posted: 14 May 2016 at 3:05pm |
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i would weld it myself but i see alot of (i wish i would have just brought it to you first) on the same note we have a guy about twenty miles away that makes his living with the hammer anvil and forge all custom wrought iron work
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