tn speed shop sleeves ,sleeve tool and instalation

heres a picture of my 4.980 od /4.625id sleeve and sleeve installation tool the one on table behind it is cruder its for a sb2 block .  

Edited by mlpankey - 08 Jun 2013 at 9:21pm

Rod its more than you have shown . The caliper is on the outside ledge showing the outside diameter of the sleeve. Sleeves were not ordered from Ray. they were turned down and cut to length on the lathe i made the sleeve tool from. I am shocked you didn't like the driver after all its shiny aluminum which usually catches your eye .  I know you are  envious  but don't let your envy defeat you so easily

Edited by mlpankey - 10 Jun 2013 at 6:46pm

AC200Puller wrote: And your tractor is where?

thats a good question where is rods tractor. 

Rod B wrote: What did you make the sleeves from and when?

sleeves are milling sleeves. Turned and cut last week.

mlpankey wrote: Rod B wrote: What did you make the sleeves from and when? sleeves are milling sleeves. Turned and cut last week.

Edited by Rod B - 11 Jun 2013 at 9:18am

Personally I dont care if RodB posts pics or not. Hes worth it in just in entertainment value alone, the way he exposes the Pankster. 

Pank if business is your aforementioned name, Risky must be the christian part of it. Nice All Thread head studs. too Classy. But let me guess, the previous builder did that. I.E, whoever you bought that particular engine from..

So whats wrong that you cant remove them easily? The first thing to be done is to remove them so they arent in the way of your tape measure. Secondly so that you can clean up that nasty looking deck, third, if you are reinstalling sleeves, you are gonna .....wait...maybe you dont know any better, but usually, you mill down the deck just a tad bit again.

So, with the all thread studs still in, it would go to show that you are just splashing around on the net again making noise, but not really intend (or are ready) to work on anything. 

Just have WI50 build you a motor capable of winning and go pulling..If only you hadnt sold your tractor....HEY! The Ballistic tractor is sitting in the back of his barn now that he got the alky Case going. and its a PROVEN winner. Buy it from him.  Ive got to go up there in a few weeks. For $250 ill bring it down back to east of Chicago for you. Saves you 12 hr round trip, so you can get back you all your customers and all their pulling drag racing and circle track needs.. :)

Glockhead SWMI wrote: I think they both need a big helping of shut the hell up. Whats the saying about arguing with an idiot....

I am curious of the torque specs one would use to install cylinder head.i bet those "all-thread" studs just keep on stretching till they break.the material used in those threaded rods is of the poorest quality,close to re-bar.it looks like the "studs" are clearenced near the deck,is that to clear the ring compressor during assm?

mlpankey wrote: brandon none of the  cheerleading rods , the man, or wi know that .  They say a 4 3/4 bore is impossible .  Just showing pictures of  a large sleeve block and only .100 difference in od from the od of sleeves I been using since 2010 blows them away.  They are into little motors small bores short strokes and long rods.   well all thread can be had in schedule 80 and since all the all thread in the block  is larger in diameter than factory studs  it holds the fire rings pretty well.  no if the ring compressor was a issue  i would put the pistons /rods in from the bottom .

I hate to burst your bubble but pipe is schedule 40, 80, 10 etc. All thread rod as in other hardware is rated by GRADE . Another thing an engine builder would know.

I realize you aren't trying to get to the moon and back nor bright enough to build you anything to make it 320 feet down the track but at least getting to the track now and then would do a few of you fellas some good.

I just felt the need to save this post for few to enjoy. I wonder what the wall thickness of schedule 80 all thread would be?   
i

How do you put the pistons in from the bottom? Kinda hard with that setup...

Order pipe for the plant, take some home. Typical liberal, you slack jawed hillbilly.

I'm not interested in being part of the fray, but I do have two questions on this.....please don't use this to further the argument.

Lou, when the slugs get big they will not clear the webbing. Spankster is showing his lack of experience saying he'd put them in from the bottom. The sleeves would have to be to short to have any stroke if he could put the pistons in the bottom. Not much different then sched 80 all-thread or cast iron forging.

Nice pictures of Tarbills old motor on ytmag there pank. Trying to pass off boughten engine as one you built by not giveing credit where credit is due. lil sweeper should read this forum where wi50 had to show you how to get rods to clear on long strokes.

Brandon tell the man how many years the karpells ran  to quote the mans  shipmans ignorance. Hard to call someone ignorant when you can't do something they have already done even when your seeing their work in pictorial form. I have always been one if i saw it done could repeat it. 

The studs cant be removed because hard block is holding the bottom of the block together. The all thread studs do not stretch. Its is not that hard to put pistion in with the long studs. Shipman builds motors a litte different but they last. When you go that big there is not alot of metal left in the block, so things have to changed.