Correct install of oil pan gasket (pics)

Forget the permatex formagasket. Use a high-tack on the pan. The first picture is right and the cardboard cut-outs look like the rear seal gasket.

First take all the gaskets off the pan and lay it rail down on a flat surface like a good welding bench and check the rails for flatness, Bet ya a pop you have to knock them down flat. I use a hammer and block of hardwood held tight against the pan sides. Once nearly flat check the areas close to the holes for being pulled up due to prior over tightening and if needed knock those areas flat with a big punch. I use a piece of 1" or so shafting or a  long 3/4 bolt will do hitting the threaded end and using the head for a large punch. You can also clamp a shaft or large punch in a vise and hold the pan rail on top of it and knock the holes down flat. Any way you choose to do it it must be done.  Once you have the holes flat check the entire rail again on a flat surface and adjust if needed. NOW you are ready to mess with the gaskets, LOL.  Picture 1 is the correct way to assemble the gaskets. You need a small bead of #2 under the junction of the two. The "L" shaped gaskets go under the rear main caps IF they are shimmed up (The major source of leaks blammed on rear seals and pan gaskets in my experiance is these missing) If the rear main cap is not shimmed throw them away and use a small bead of silicone sealer under the cap as the gaskets can hold the cap up increasing the clearances. Remove the rear main cap and take a look, easy to see how oil can go bewteen the cap and block and out on the ground and where it needs to be sealed up.. Stick the side gaskets to the pan using contact cement. Do not use silicone on cork gaskets as it causes them to move around when you tighten things up making a mess of things. When the gaskets are installed and ready to replace the pan you should see only gaskets, no sealer. Then go to the block and find the area where the side gaskets meet the ends and in those four corners put a 1/4" bead of #2 and put the pan on, now you will be able to remove it without screwing up the gaskets and it wont leaka drop. Thats how I do'em

Butch, that is an awesome explaination thanks! Thanks for taking the time everyone.

The little gaskets go under the rear main bearing cap, some mechanics don't know and throw them away and then have an oil leak at the rear of the oil pan. I  put the permatex #2 on ALL of the metal surfaces, even the ones under the rear main bearing cap, cheap insurance aganist an oil leak that you don't want. Don't put two much #2 on so that it runs out. Don't over tighten the bolts. The thick cork gaskets will be compressed when you tighten the oil pan, don't cut them off. Butch gave a very good discription on how to prepare the oil pan. Like Don said, Indian Head Gasket Shellac is a very good sealant also.

Edited by nella(Pa) - 19 Jan 2011 at 11:49am

Don, can you tell me what function the shellac performs with cork gaskets? TIA

Does anyone know why 4 "L" gaskets are provided in the kit? Does the front cap get 2 gaskets just like the back cap?

Don(MI) wrote: Does anyone know why 4 "L" gaskets are provided in the kit? Does the front cap get 2 gaskets just like the back cap?

Second note on curved gaskets...,i didn not trim cmpletely flush ..left about 1/8 "  it sounds like i should have left it uncut...sits about a 1/4 " high that way...is that ok?

If you cut them, they shrink, and then you have a real mess

Too late.

That reply from butch, should be printed and put somewhere safe for every allis owner.

Yup, when we cut them short, and the gasket actually wraps around the crankcaps, it shrinks with the torque from the pan bolts, creating that 1/4" gap.

That is art.

thanks for all the info...have an extra set ..will install and leave  long...

Indian head sticks it in place.Hi tack lets it slide around.