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7000/8000 series clutch discs 70268367 ??

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DrAllis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 May 2026 at 10:50am
Have any of you serious pullers tried the Tribco (Cleveland, Ohio) brand Power Director "wet" clutch discs with Kevlar lining on them, instead of the bronze faced style originals ???   They sure advertise their product to be better than OEM, but there's nothing more embarrassing than a new clutch that won't hold the first time going down the track ???

Edited by DrAllis - 19 May 2026 at 3:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2026 at 2:35pm
Well ,a few years ago - tried the bronze lining, and all you seen was the dust of bronze, was supposed to be the greatest thing- wasnt,, was on a One Eighty, 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2026 at 3:12pm
Well, not much info to go by there. For a dry clutch the "pads" aren't bronze, they are cerametallic and can take a tremendous amount of heat. Now, anyone who builds you a clutch disc with more than four of those cerametallic pads, should tell you, the pressure plate spring pressure has to be increased proportionally as the pad count increases. So, if you go from 4 pads to 8 pads, the pressure plate spring pressure has to be DOUBLED to have a clutch as strong as a stock 4-pad with a stock pressure plate. I imagine that's what happened. More pads has to be better, right ???????????  NOT unless you increase the pressure plate squeeze !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2026 at 7:17am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Have any of you serious pullers tried the Tribco (Cleveland, Ohio) brand Power Director "wet" clutch discs with Kevlar lining on them, instead of the bronze faced style originals ???   They sure advertise their product to be better than OEM, but there's nothing more embarrassing than a new clutch that won't hold the first time going down the track ???

  Well,,   I tried them and they guaranteed they would not warp, they did not but....... since the Kevlar wore off so fast apparently they did not get hot enough to warp them.

  The first thing that tipped me off was the oil was filthy, filled with wore out clutch particles,   not for pulling.

   No slipping afterall.
2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040   R50       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2026 at 10:37am
OK, you are using the stock clutch and put the different kevlar clutch plates in, correct?
What RPM and what was the clutch hyd pressure - low range issue or high range ?
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2026 at 11:33am
A combination of a great high pressure, high volume transmission fluid pump, COUPLED to an upgraded trans valve body that can adequately supply the consistent needed volume of higher fluid pressures to the wet clutch packs…. Whether OEM or Kevlar aftermarket clutch packs or whatever ~ isn’t as relevant…
The trans hydraulic fluid pressure HAS GOT TO HOLD clutch packs firmly together !!!!


Edited by AC7060IL - 20 May 2026 at 12:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2026 at 3:58pm
Thank you much for that (failure) information.  I'm looking for maybe something better than the OEM discs as they are now about $300 bucks each new.  I have an old friend who got 6 or 7 summers out of his (7580) clutch in a 7045 chassis. He's starting in low and upshifting to high side within the first 75 to 100 ft. He runs a 15 mph speed class most of the time. Not sure of the turbo, but it has a "P" pump.  He did just tell me (I asked) what he had the P.D. pressure set at and I thought he was at 250 psi, but he has since raised it to 315 psi. Sounds like it's tricky to get there as coil bind sets in when you get too far along with the shimming procedure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2026 at 9:26pm
Originally posted by tbran tbran wrote:

OK, you are using the stock clutch and put the different kevlar clutch plates in, correct?
What RPM and what was the clutch hyd pressure - low range issue or high range ?

   Are you asking me the  questions ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 9:04am
NG , yes I was curious  as to the usage, pressure and cycles it took to destroy the linings.  
Decades ago I worked with a unit that the customer had tied the low and high hubs together and was using all the plates in a 7060. Of course he burnt the high side every pull. I tried to explain the low side had buffering springs on the piston to allow inching of the clutch and there was nothing on the high side. He went to a dry clutch before we could do some more engineering. Having the high side oil supply come on at the top portion of the clutch travel as an assist was to have been be the next step. 
 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 9:54am
I've been recommending (a puller clutch) removal of two of those small belleville springs at each station of the low range piston, to help in getting more squeeze on the clutch plates at the same psi setting. The Power Shift transmissions got by without anything but the wave springs to push the pistons back in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by tbran tbran wrote:

OK, you are using the stock clutch and put the different kevlar clutch plates in, correct?
What RPM and what was the clutch hyd pressure - low range issue or high range ?
 
  Stock, well.....   I bought a 7580 clutch from some southern boys who removed the high side piston then cut the separator plate slots clean through on the high side housing  so they match the low side, then, they welded the high and low side hubs together removing the low side splines so it only engages the high side shaft.  250 pounds of pressure.

   About 850 hp, leave at 3200 rpm, then can throttle. hits 4400rpm no load, two custom road gears. 
   When I got it came with thirteen stock plates and separator plates in it and when I ran it about six runs latter warped a bunch.

  Decided the piston did not travel enough to compress so many plates, shimmed it up with eight plates and that lasted a couple years before warpage.
  Plates kept getting hot and warping and with all the room  tried doubling up separator plates between clutch plates to reduce heat and overfilled the tranny for more cooling oil, the separator plates needed doubling  because they were getting bent egg shaped also.

   The Kevlar plates lasted about eight runs were not shot, close, but the oil was filthy.

  Whew .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 8:14pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Thank you much for that (failure) information.  I'm looking for maybe something better than the OEM discs as they are now about $300 bucks each new.  I have an old friend who got 6 or 7 summers out of his (7580) clutch in a 7045 chassis. He's starting in low and upshifting to high side within the first 75 to 100 ft. He runs a 15 mph speed class most of the time. Not sure of the turbo, but it has a "P" pump.  He did just tell me (I asked) what he had the P.D. pressure set at and I thought he was at 250 psi, but he has since raised it to 315 psi. Sounds like it's tricky to get there as coil bind sets in when you get too far along with the shimming procedure.

  Wondering...  at that pressure will the seals hold??  Blew mine once at 250.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 8:23pm
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

I've been recommending (a puller clutch) removal of two of those small belleville springs at each station of the low range piston, to help in getting more squeeze on the clutch plates at the same psi setting. The Power Shift transmissions got by without anything but the wave springs to push the pistons back in.

   Another question for ya Doc, dont the springs act as a stop so the piston does not travel too far???
    If not thats a good one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 May 2026 at 10:17pm
The piston travel will stop due to clutch /separator plate thickness. 
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote NEVER green Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2026 at 7:41am
Originally posted by tbran tbran wrote:

The piston travel will stop due to clutch /separator plate thickness. 

  My bad, duh.   Even if they are completely wore out the piston wont travel to far either I Guess but by then it should be torn down any way.

   Looks like an excellent idea.
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