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Installing seat pivot bolt bushing on WD45

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StanGreen View Drop Down
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    Posted: 06 Nov 2023 at 10:28pm
On my WD45, I had a worn out seat pivot bolt bushing. After may hours of effort, I got the old bushing out. Again, I spent many hours trying to get the new one back in. Only to end up destroying it. Ouch A new one is on order. So, rather than destroy another one, what is the best way to get this bushing back in the seat bracket? BTW: No, I don't have a hydraulic press nor do I want to buy one.

Thanks,
Stan
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JimWenigOH View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2023 at 4:54am
How about a large, heavy duty c-clamp, or a hydraulic jack under something very heavy to push against. A repair shop that would do it for you at minimal cost. Bring it to my place in Ohio, I'll press it in for you.

Edited by JimWenigOH - 07 Nov 2023 at 4:57am
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Mikez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2023 at 6:25am
Did you put the new bushing in the freezer overnight before trying to install 
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WF owner View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2023 at 6:30am
Can you pull it in with a fine thread bolt, some washers and a lot of lubrication? If you have a dremel tool, clean the hole up good before you start.

Edited by WF owner - 07 Nov 2023 at 6:31am
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StanGreen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StanGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2023 at 7:53am
Thanks for the ideas. I actually bent the handle on my C clamp trying to press it in! (Part of how I damaged the first one.)  It also tends to want to twist under pressure, so the force goes sideways rather than straight. I do have a auto shop I take all my vehicles to, so I'll give them a call. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2023 at 9:29am
I have my local machine shop do jobs like that if I don’t feel comfortable doing it myself. With the correct tools they could have something like that done in a minute. Mine wouldn’t probably even charge me and would say see ya next time.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StanGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2023 at 7:08pm
I ended up finding a shop that would do the work. Not "local" but close enough. They had trouble with it even with all their equipment! They said the bushing "bulged" when they tried to press it. It did end up getting it in but I did not ask how! I don't know how they did them at the factory. But it is done now and I will likely never have to do it a again on this tractor. Smile
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IBWD MIke View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2023 at 8:11am
Changed one on one or the other of mine some years back. Not a fun job! Sounds like mine was easier than yours though!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2023 at 4:03pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I have my local machine shop do jobs like that if I don’t feel comfortable doing it myself. With the correct tools they could have something like that done in a minute. Mine wouldn’t probably even charge me and would say see ya next time.



x2
I have said it before.  Local machine shops are invaluable when dealing with old tractors.  Worn out parts?  They can build them up.  Parts not available?  They can make them!  Yes, they can be expensive, but what in life today isn't?  Two things are certain:  good looking repairs and good quality workmanship.


'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote StanGreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2023 at 4:43pm
Originally posted by AC720Man AC720Man wrote:

I have my local machine shop do jobs like that if I don’t feel comfortable doing it myself. With the correct tools they could have something like that done in a minute. Mine wouldn’t probably even charge me and would say see ya next time.


Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:


x2
I have said it before.  Local machine shops are invaluable when dealing with old tractors.  Worn out parts?  They can build them up.  Parts not available?  They can make them!  Yes, they can be expensive, but what in life today isn't?  Two things are certain:  good looking repairs and good quality workmanship.

If only I had a local one. I have to plan half a day to get to one. Cry

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2023 at 8:03pm
to late now but I cleaned out the eye with sandpaper on a flapper lubed it with dish soap and pressed it in with a hydraulic press.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2023 at 8:32pm
Glad to hear that you got it in. My local machine shop has been an incredible asset while rebuilding these ole tractors. Most times they can rebuild a part for me for far less than a new part if its salvageable. They have rebuilt some parts that are NLA. I can’t thank them enough.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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