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SouthLouisiana121333 
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Joined: 06 Apr 2024
Location: Louisnana
Points: 32
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 Topic: Final Drive Leak Changed Location
Posted: 15 Jun 2024 at 1:08pm |
Hello everyone,
I finally got around to changing the left final drive oil pan gasket on my 52 model B. I needed to be changed as it was leaking out of the front side of the pan. Got the old DIY rubber gasket off and replaced it with the Steiner felt gasket. Took it down the road for a spin and it looked like it was leaking even more than before! Upon further inspection it looks like it's not leaking from the oil pan but now there is a large drip coming from the bottom of the opening for the drive shaft.
Looking at the parts diagram I see that there is a drive shaft seal (#1). I'm sure this is what is leaking, but the question is why now and not before? Is the drive shaft seal only to keep dirt out? Maybe I over filled the pan and that's why it's leaking? I opened the pan fill hole back up and stuck my pinky in there to check the level and it had dropped quite a bit.
Pics attached for reference. Any insight is greatly appreciated!
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wjohn
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Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Location: KS
Points: 1827
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Posted: 15 Jun 2024 at 9:56pm |
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Any chance you measured how much came out? My first guess would be that the level was low enough that it no longer leaked out the bad seal, and then you filled it up to the proper level after the gasket change and it was high enough to start leaking out of the seal again.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 78612
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 8:08am |
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the oil level is low in the pan and the gear dips in the oil and flings it all over the inside.. The shaft is a few inches ABOVE the oil level. There is not way you filled the pan and got oil up to the shaft.. Normally you can remove the wheel hub and pull the seal out and replace it... But YOUR TRACTOR has the FLANGE made onto the shaft .( yours is a Potato or CANE tractor ???) . There were a few made that way.... You will need to remove the hub and rim.. remove the pan.. pull the bolt off the INBOARD bearing end and pull the shaft out OUTBOARD end from the bull gear.. to get to the seal..
Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Jun 2024 at 8:10am
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 8:12am |
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I would guess you always had the seal leak, but the NEW / CLEAN / possibly thinner viscosity oil has flushed out the oil GOO and increased the leak.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SouthLouisiana121333
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Joined: 06 Apr 2024
Location: Louisnana
Points: 32
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 10:02am |
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Thanks John and Steve. Y'all are always super helpful. Looking at it I kind of knew I would have to disassemble that whole side of the rear end. I'm looking at Steiners and they have 4 different options for rear oil seals but none of them match the part number in the parts diagram. Does anyone know which one would be the correct one? They are all different diameters and thicknesses...
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 12:35pm |
this is what i have written down from my past work.....im not sure why they would be different diameters.. My tractors all have the taper spline shaft with the pressed on hubs.. These days when you buy seals, they might be 3/8 , 7/16 or 1/2 inch thick and all listed as "replacement".
Rear axle bull gear shaft
Inner brg tapper
roller 14138A (brg)-14276 (race)
Outer brg TIMKIN tapper roller
368 (brg) -- 362 (race)
Outer seal 2.500-3.548 .500 lip seal
CR 25065 NAT415001
(seal from CR is
double wall, single lip, maybe 3/8 thick)
--been a while, but i think it is the 2.500 x 3.548 size ... NAT415001
Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Jun 2024 at 12:49pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 12:54pm |
https://www.steinertractor.com/ABC1562-Oil-Seal
if you click on this link it adds a "%20" to the end of the link in the http box.... click on the end and backspace to eliminate that.. ..?????
Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Jun 2024 at 12:56pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SouthLouisiana121333
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Location: Louisnana
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 3:22pm |
Thanks again Steve! I guess I'll order this one to have on hand once its disassembled and see if it fits. Meanwhile I'll be doing some more research on tearing it down. Not really sure where to even start  . I'm pretty mechanically inclined but it feels like I'm diving into the abyss with this one.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 16 Jun 2024 at 3:55pm |
its not a difficult job, but you have to block up the tractor to get the wheel / tire / pan off.. then lay upside down to get the the bull gear and not drop on your face.. 
Im not sure where you got the diagram above, but its not quite right... The "B" tractors have a nut on the inside and the shaft it threaded behind the bull gear.. nut screws on and holds the gear from moving... not a lot of clearance in there for a BIG wrench.. I think i made a wrench out of 3/8 inch plate.... the nut is about 3 inches OD ( approx as i remember).
Edited by steve(ill) - 16 Jun 2024 at 4:07pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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