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SophyCi 
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Joined: 19 Jan 2022
Location: Tampa
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 Posted: 20 Jan 2022 at 1:48am |
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I think you did well! It appears that with a little TLC, you will have a great toy to play with.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 11 Feb 2022 at 7:07pm |
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So I’ve got the engine and engine clutch out. I have removed the engine clutch, clutch housing, flywheel, and the bell housing. I’ve got to get longer bolts to bolt it to my engine stand so I can start the tear down. One question though. When I was removing the assembly from the dozer I accidentally pulled the locking plunger out too far. How do you line this thing back up? What does it attach to inside the gear shift housing? The service manual and parts manual are unclear.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 10:07pm |
So I got the engine tore down. How do you tell if the liner is a 1, 2, or a 3? I don’t see anything marked on it that would denote which one it is. 
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200Tom1
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Joined: 03 Jun 2019
Location: Iowa
Points: 1222
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Posted: 04 Mar 2022 at 11:52pm |
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Good luck with her. I wish I had kept my last HD 6. Sure miss that clank, clank.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 22472
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Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 6:20am |
how ? Have AFIS check that fingerprint !!!!  Now a clever parts numbering guy would make 5149211 a '1', 51492112 a '2' ....
More 'numbers' fun.... my BUDA 4BD153 can have either a 3 or 4 ring set per piston...HOW can anyone tell BEFORE tearing it all apart...sigh.....
same boat, different paddle.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 7:12am |
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Lol. I realized it after I posted the pic. Hope there is no one with the FBI on the forum!😂
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
Points: 31094
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Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 7:15am |
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Used to be listed in the DD service manuals, that and the micrometer dimension of the sleeves. The mark is also at the top so will be a heavy or thicker 1, 2 or 3 sleeve.
I no longer have my manuals.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 7:52am |
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When you say heavy does that mean oversized where the block has been bored or just a thicker liner from factory?
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 05 Mar 2022 at 8:03am |
Found this on PC Industries website. Is this info correct? I don’t have a micrometer large enough to measure the outside diameter of the old sleeves. 
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 11:59am |
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Well after calling several places, I got several different answers so I’m even more confused now.
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
Points: 2041
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Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 12:44pm |
This is where the block and liners need measured by someone that has the tools and experience with the Detroit engine series. Not being sarcastic or anything of the type but the block bore needs to be known, and round to fit correct liners, then protrusion of the liners etc. More to it than just a guess. Any competent machine shop on diesel engines should be able to measure it up for you to eliminate guesswork.
Very easy engine to build but you have to know the correct sized parts are going into it.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 07 Mar 2022 at 1:59pm |
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After talking to pc industries, Heavy Duty kits, and diesel pro power, all three confirmed the part number from the liners I removed are a standard size three. I figure if it ran with them before it will again. Putting the micrometer on everything else, it appears this engine was rebuilt shortly before it was parked. There is also no ring ridge whatsoever in the liners. If water hadn’t gotten into that one cylinder this thing would have popped off and ran for years I believe.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 2:16pm |
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Got a question. My block serial number is prior to them using the longer cam bearings. Mine are 1-1/8 long and the “newer” blocks are 1-1/2” long cam bearings. The blocks appear to be the same part number and so do the cams (according to the part numbers). The 1-1/8” standard size is made from unobtainium and not available. They make a .015 under bearing for $35 per bearing. Problem is no one around here grinds camshafts. The 1-1/2” wide ones are $11 per bearing and standard size is available. Can I use the 1-1/2” wide ones as long as the oil holes line up? Basically about 1/4” of the bearing will be sticking on the inside of the block past the bore for the cam bearings. The oil holes in the 1-1/2” wide bearings appear to be off center so I think they would line up. I mic’ed my cam bearing journals and they are within spec but I may polish them a little in a jig to spin the cam using a drill and a socket.
Any thoughts guys?
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fjdrill
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Joined: 13 May 2012
Location: Alabama
Points: 284
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 2:54pm |
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Did that 5 come from over around Scooba?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 81242
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 3:15pm |
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Dewey , if the bearing OD is the same and will fit in the block... I would think you could take a cutoff wheel and trim some off the bearings "if needed"... maybe OK they way they are.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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COD
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Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 4:58pm |
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I got it from a fellow that was South of Dekalb, MS so it wasn’t far from Scooba.
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COD
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 4:59pm |
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Thought about trimming the bearings off but had rather leave them sticking a little past the bores unless it would be an issue. I don’t see where it would be but I’ve never seen an engine with bearings sticking out past the bores.
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fjdrill
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Joined: 13 May 2012
Location: Alabama
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 5:30pm |
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I’m thinking that my dad’s old dozer. Bought about 1965 in Amory at a sale at one the AC dealer auctions. First dozer I ran pulling a Rome new ground disc. About 1969-70 ( I was like10 years old at the time) sold to a local. Then a Mennonite had it in Geiger Al Wondering were it went. Figured scrappers had gotten it.
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
Points: 52
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 6:13pm |
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The scrappers were next in line to get it. It’s still a solid old dozer seems like. If water hadn’t gotten into that one cylinder it would have fired off. I like to save this old iron. It was built in days where things were simple and made to last. You can take a set of wrenches and sockets and work on anything on it. Glad it brought back memories for you.
Edited by COD - 27 Mar 2022 at 6:28pm
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COD
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Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 27 Mar 2022 at 6:14pm |
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It had the rear aux hydraulic hoses on it. Figured it was pulling a disc at some point.
Anybody else got any feedback on the cam bearings???
Edited by COD - 27 Mar 2022 at 6:28pm
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COD
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Joined: 01 Jan 2022
Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 18 Apr 2022 at 1:32pm |
Anybody got one of these in good shape they are willing to sell???? If so PM me 
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
Points: 2041
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Posted: 19 Apr 2022 at 6:24am |
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The throwout bearing fork is a common part to build up with either weld, or brass.
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COD
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Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 19 Apr 2022 at 12:04pm |
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The forks are in great shape. My problem is the jetway on the long shaft said is worn causing a lot of play.
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 19 Apr 2022 at 6:25pm |
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"Key" way??
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COD
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Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 19 Apr 2022 at 10:55pm |
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Oops. Yes keyway. I didn’t catch the autocorrect had changed it.
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
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Posted: 20 Apr 2022 at 5:42am |
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Most any machine shop could cut another Woodruff keyway into the shaft 180 degrees opposite from the existing worn keyway(s). I just had that performed on an overhead crane hoist last week rather than spend $340.00 from Budgit Hoists for a replacement shaft.
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COD
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Posted: 20 Apr 2022 at 7:40am |
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Great idea! I didn’t think of moving the keyway around.
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COD
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Location: Mississippi
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Posted: 20 Apr 2022 at 9:24am |
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OK guys I have another dumb question. I’m in the process of reassembling the engine. I am ready to put the rings on the pistons. I have looked all over the four compression rings and do not see any markings that would denote the “top” side of the rings. It’s Interstate McBee brand. I called the place I bought the kit from and they said it didn’t matter which way was up but didn’t give me a fuzzy feeling they knew what they were talking about. Anybody know for sure on this?
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
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Posted: 20 Apr 2022 at 10:22am |
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they may be correct if no markings. Most compression rings have a slight taper which goes to the top but not all.
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COD
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Posted: 27 Apr 2022 at 5:11pm |
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Just in case anyone else runs into this issue this may save you the trouble I went through to find out for certain on the piston rings. I contacted Intersate-McBee’s customer service and explained the issue to them. The first two people were as unsure as I was. They finally got an answer back to me today that it doesn’t matter up or down on the compression rings.
On another note, my next question is this; I’m using HV7 injectors instead of the HV6. Reason being I got some rebuilt ones for a really cheap price. What should I set the injector timing to for the HV7s?
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